kanata67

aggred we lost a good MW member cuz of that. sex not only sells... it also gathers information prior to public awareness... I have to agree with exo and say just sit back and enjoy... or sell off all your vintage stuff to me real cheap and stock up on current releases... whatever

You're old and foolish now!!! Here's a fun one from earlier this summer of my niece and I. Mad props to whomever can guess what the hell we're doing. pervert seriously... I assume you are either being shot at by something or wathching something blow up. Props for the Pratchett quote in the sig. I read a ton of his stuff in the UK public libraries. Poor turtle...

the f/a 18... the volvo of the navy mine would be the SR-71 blackbird... ecological nightmare that it was kind of funny how many people can't spell the names of the ancient ones properly... oh well... better "CTHULU" than the goat with a thousand young or some of the nasty ones... ambrose bierce did it before lovecraft just in case anyone cares I will never fear a god who cares about mortals... it's the gods who simply want to eat the planet that make me nervous [gee... what to do taday... I know... why not summon one of the gate keepers and possibly lose my soul to something unmentionable and/or destroy the planet]... thank the heavens they ommited many chapters when they released the necronomicon in paperback else some dumb-ass somewhere would have... why anyone would want to risk their life just to have the crap scared out or them and possible be eaten is beyond me

you guys with the peer pressure... I just have to wonder if I have any non-incriminating pics of myself found one... though I still need to take pics of the kevlar for my trade post so expect a better one from me. FYI ... no incriminating evidence around because this was taken by my wife on our wedding night. I took pics of her as well but lord knows I would get yelled at for posting those feel free to make whatever derogatory comments you can think of LOL.

joons made a 1s??? I though all I was missing was the green one?!?! as my monkey collection grows by 3 since the last time I posted

you guys got me edited... "oppression of free speach" and more liberal whining omitted Good thing I didn't go into real detail I will say that I always thought it kind of silly to keep people from knowing some of the common ingredients... wouldn't we be better off if the cashier at the supermarket was suspicous of the hooded guy buying a lot of houshould cleaners? Can we discuss beige-boxing and other abuses of the infra-structure? j/k on a seroius note... what would you guys recomend in a .380?

I just have top wonder what kind of format mcfarlane uses for te spawn stuff. I've cut a few apart and know it's surface dyed/painted plastic. The well designed figures take one heck of a beating but it seems there are often poorly bonded/poured parts in many of the figs. great detail and mold work, but piss poor quality control. Actually relavent to rewooh's question... anybody want to give a list of popular resin makers "ie ebay keyword searches] and pro's and con's? I know that the pics of the ultimate 19 resin looked sweet as all hades. I've come across a few manufacturers searching on ebay but I can't help but think that someone who has actually built one would know more than me

Go ewilen, Go ewilen you should keep in touch... I always like to help out those who "grok" the system

I'd show a pic of myself, but it would just make everyone but the ex mil jealous that and someone might recognize me

you don't look that gay, or did you mean the topic? just kidding as for what the typical MW'er looks like... remember the morlocks from the original time machine??? If you want to see a pic of graham... check out the weapons banter thread

you my friend, obviously don't do quality drugs welcome MSth08. I am sure you will enjoy it here. They have warned you about the damage to your wallet but they haven't warned you about the lurking leaches who wait like vultures for some-one to say something like "the only macross collection which i have is 3 pieces of 3 diecasted VF" and then immediately ask if the parts might be of use and if you want to part with them... Hint hint

what if you keep it out the sun? hiding from the sun will definately slow it down to the point where you might not notice in your lifetime, but it still happens. Cave painting that have never seen the sun have faded with time... thats life. Just don't leave it on your dashboard on a sunny day etc... you don't have to be super anal about the ocasional time you walk by a window with it though... it's not a vampire

I normally go for a combination of drybrushing and washing. I use citadel water based acrylics and can't really comment on other brands, but I think the technique would be the same... Do a base coat/primer of whatever. Paint all your main pieces/panels. Do a drybrush of white or mythryl[bright mettallic]. touch up you main bits and do your detain work. Dry brush again with more delicacy. Either dillute the heck out of a paint/paint mix or use an actual wash/glaze diluted appropriately in the manner described by Plastik Missle. You can also do successive washes as in wash the whole thing with a dilute mixture and as the fluid settles into the natural places dab the highest part of a line with a much less dilute [or evel undiluted depending on what you use] mix of the wash. You aren't really painting hear so much as placing just the tip of a very fine brush in the correct spot and letting the piant flow off and along the panel line. repeated thin washes gives better blending. painting detail between washes gives the look of age contrast between parts. always have whatever you are painting in it's natural position when doing washes... ie if you are washing a 1/55 valk in fighter... have it "standing" on it's boosters so te wash will flow as if push by the air during flight. Do a destroid standing as thats how rain falls... upside down just looks weird. need a destoid to practice on?

I still use "super gel" [availible at wallmart's tool dept] as it's as strong as super glue and stays where you put it so you don't have to deal with any of that nasty glue drippage. My only warning is don't get in the habit of taking the top off with your mouth while you use it as you will sooner or later miss when putting the cap back on and glue your lips together. The really sad thing is I've done it more than once

it's basically fancy water for transfers 1. even with stickers... a little goo-gone, a paper towel, and there is no residue. 2 I will par-a-phrase goldenboy_forever and point out that decals will block light from the surface of a toy so any color fading due to sunlight will not occur... which leads to some pretty messed up looking contrasts on, say, a mustard yellow jetfire. As long as you apply decals/stickers properly... ie don't use super glue... you shouldn't have to worry. In 20 years when the decals fall off and you can see the sun damage you can always get reprint decals and cover up the difference oh yeah... goldenboy_forever... I can't help but think that wax would have to come after decals... just like on surf boards... else the decals don't really stick that well. A wax rather than a clear coat? Let us know how it works out.

I am in the unique position to be able to find out for you as a JM suffered greatly in my care so a little disection isn't out of the question... well... that took about a minute. Mine was the same way I guess... with the front part coming out fairly easy. The back tab looks to be shaved at an angle on mine. Anyhow... don't try to pop them both and then remove it... After popping the front tab gently pry the foward part of the canopy upwards. I inserted the end of my flat-head between the halves and rotated it to get it started the first time. The front tab is longer than the back one... just wiggle it till the tab is actually free of the other portion. Here the back half will either easily pop out on it's own, or pop out with a little pressure from a screwdriver [i had to use a screwdriver the first time I did it... I did it twice just to make sure it wasn't a fluke ] Did it three times and didn't even break anything. If I wasn't a rage-a-holic I wouldn't have the corpses though. It is a damn good mod tweaking the interior of a JM cockpit though... I might just have to do that to one or two. hope this helps.

that's why I likened tham to torpedo tubes... as long as it's circular... the end is just tapered to one side to account for the end point. Picture a gun barrel cut at a 45 degree slope at the end... the end is sloped but the bullet still goes straight. I wouldn't think it useful for a projectile but homing type weapons would work fine.

they are "doyoshu" or something... Hang on and I'll go look... Doyusha ... I was close. They come up from time to time on ebay and seem to always be right around $30. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=3560323625 ... the link in question I assume. Worst case you get a member state side to get it for you and pay for shipping twice. Best case... ask monkey nugget is he can help... he usually can

looking at my glaugs I would suppose that they are the 3 black circles on either side of the cockpit. Kinda look like torpedo tube hatches. Only other place I could think would be the legs as there are three hatch type plates on the outside of each leg. There are also three hatch type plates on the inside of each leg so I'm thinking it's the black circles on either side of the cockpit.

shameless, and yet still obnoxious, self-plug... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...t=20#entry41611 oh yeah... quote bigkid "I'd say your rows and rows of destroids comprise an army. That's pretty sweet. I'm too cheap to get that many of one type though unless I get really good deals. " my favorite kind of deals

It would probably be ok in fighter mode, but in Battroid, you may suffer from a bent hip... All depends on the angle, how far it fell, what it fell onto (carpeting can be a life saver), disposition of the gods, etc... Luckly none of my Yammies have fallen from any significant height. I had one of my legs for my Max 1A fall about 3.5 feet onto carpeting without a scratch. The worst is falling over onto a hard wood desk because of the crazy poses I put them through. dropped... no thrown... perhaps... let's just say that it's best to keep them in fighter mode if you plan on throwing the table they are on as they just don't hold up in battroid mode. Then again... neither do JM's The worst part is both would be easy fixes if I could only find the two missing bits of plastic amidst all the accumulated debris. can't live without "rage-a-hol"

Having both... It shouldn't be hard to do. There isn't all that much detail anyways so I'd just make sure it was clean when you primered it.

maybe if the pod was shooting up roy... I can't help but think it would be cheaper to make my own set using a super posable [or even a yammie] and a matchbox pod mounted on slate or a brick though. How long till we see custom book-ends???

I'm still a big fan of checking out store closures and buying old store display shelving real cheap. I have a few tempered glass displays that assemble using chromed metal brackets that tighten down. I think I may have all the parts but one piece of end glass to make a third on my back porch but I would have to check. They aren't as big as the one pictured above... probably only holding 3 1/48s in any mode on the top shelf and 3 in fighter mode on the bottom shelf... but at $5 for all of them they were good enough for me

yammie's should be alright unless a bandai fall on top of them I try not to drop stuff but occasionally something like a glass table gets thrown... along with everything that happens o be on top of it. "just can't live without rage-a-hol". Which reminds me... I might have that JM part bobe needed now Glad to hear that monkey was favored by the gods of gravity oh yeah... I agree that cleaning should be avoided as much as possible, that way when you finally get to it you find all sorts of stuff you forgot you had. A HCM 'eh rob?