kanata67

you may have to either peel back or slice hrough the black sticker tat wraps around the nose of the valk in front of the cockpit. Took me a while to realize that was my problem on my first jetfire dis-assemble. If that doesn't do it off the bat [that sticker is surprisingly strong] try pushing a small screw drever into the hole below he head pivot plate and pushing them apart from that point. I do know that the re-issue tail assemblies are either a whole lot tighter than the old school ones so they almost appear glued. Perhaps the assembly line is more streamlined now-a-days and they are assembled before he plastic is completely cooled... not sure. Get back to me if you still have probs.

2nd edition... the one with the blue vfx paint scheme that I love??? I traded a higlander sword with a dinged scabbard for my first one. I got my second [now sold to a friend] MIB with a MIB 21 for $130. [my friend broke the canopy removing it from box ]. It's my favorite paint sceme valk and one of the nicest toys I've ever played with, but I couldn't justify paying over $100 for one

I'd say both ewilen. http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...4&category=9983 .... sooooo not a taka . I have two of them and the quality leaves more than a little to be desired "Before you get too worked up, only the CLOTHES are for sale! "... Good thing you said something else I might have bid You want really absurd??? Hurin just got $167.50 for a loose super O' without accessories/armor!!!!! I paid around a whopping $30 for my unbroken but tail-less super O' that was sporting a replacement tail assembly within ten minutes of being unpacked. Lord knows I like seeing fellow members make money, but I just don't see how this is worth more than the strike with most armor he was selling at the same time?!?!

if you are just re-painting the toy... Besides saying use primer... From what I gather yammies are more prone to paint chipping than the MPC, though I have never removed my MPC from box as I fear them pulling a spawn toy desintergration when exposed to air. I do know that due to the electronics the MPC is more of a pain to diss-assemble, if you plan on diss-assembling it prior to painting. Painting a custom valk isn't that big of a project, though many start out with a bootleg or a junker first time. Kidkorrupt's web site has some great examples including a rooster valk that is just to funny. As long as you prime and seal when done, it should be smooth sailing. As for what you will need... I'm thinking paint brushes paint spray primer [i recommend citadel] spray matte sealer [again I recommend citadel] a small phillips screw driver so you can disassemble before priming any areas that would be hard to paint otherwise, like the insides of a 1/55 legs that you can see if you squint into the hole behind the lowered landing gear for instance Patientce. good luck and post progress pics.

pine sol won't do that much to your hands, then again I work with chlorine and muriatic and sulfuric acid on a daily basis so my perspective may be skewed. You can also try "goo-gone" and a paper towel and repeated applications as it won't hurt plastic. this does remind me though... sbarrett4.... when r u gonna sell me that ve-1 as my beer's seeker armor would surely like it. I can make it worth your while

Thankfully the little shoulder bars are intact and unbroken. They were removed along with the cockpit, legs, and tail section in an attempt to get to the one glued area. It looks like someone used glue along the top part of the chest plate and then pressed the part against the back plate in fighter mode. I've been using an exacto and repeated goo-gone sprays and seem to be making progress on the first one. I have a pin vice, but do not have a fret saw [the mini saw blade for exacto knives] as I can't find them anywhere and normally use a plubers pvc saw which is way to big for a job like this [it looks like a tiny hack saw] Hypotetically I could post pics I probably should check and see if the armor is glued in place as well... though I know that the boosters aren't glued.

I hate having two topics on the first page... but this is decidedly of a different nature than my army question. I am working on my repair web site and have done a fair bit on my own, but here is a situation I figured I better ask about before I tackle. Here is the hypothetical situation... Lets say an old guy spoiled the heck out of his kids in the 80's. Lets say the same guy was concerned about child safty so glued certain parts that may be damaged, or damage the children. Lets say that one of those safety mods was gluing the back plate and chest plate of a matchbox JM so that the toy is pretty but cannont transform. Now lets say it is today, and by the the benifits of fate a hippie ended up with one of the JM's [hypothetically of course ] and is trying to make them fully transformable again. I have been scoring the glue, which looks similar to amber in it's dried 15+ year old state and is not they type of glue that melts plastic together, and have made slight progress in the seams but the parts "feel" no closer to seperation. I have been spraying "goo gone" on the affected area, having diss-assembled the JM to better work on the one area glued... hypothetically of course. There appear to be some parts besides the front seam that are affected, but as I have never had a functional JM I don't know what the parts look like in robot mode. Does anybody know of a way to weaken/remove glue without damaging the plastic? I have already written off the decals as a loss as they seem to have been applied by a drunken deranged midget, again hypothetically, so soaking it in something is an option. Also, if anybody can provide transformation instructions on a JM so I know what should move and don't do anything stupid, it would be appreciated. Can anyone give input on a way to do this simply to 8 JM's at once, again hypothetically?

The money thing can't but play a huge part. I was thinking maybe the 1/144 die-cast figures could be a good basis as they aren't that expensive, but destroids are pretty much all there is cheap. Would it look a little off having one 1/144 nousjaduel ger power armor surrounded by 50 destroids and one doyusha vf? . Maybe the pencil sharpeners...

citadel spray matte sealer is typically sold at any tabletop gaming store. The same stores that sell warhammer/D&D/pewter miniatures and paints. As for touch up... That is best answered by another as I normally remove all flaking paint with a brush and start from scratch with primer. I know my old show 79 camaro had artic white paint and one or two rust spots were cured through prep work, painting a few layers of the closest citadel paint [perhaps not the best but what I had and what I know] and sprayed with sealer and I never had a problem there-after.

"Citadel" spray matte sealer would probably work. I can't say for sure but it works on my car

Exosquad re-released a bunch of the old robtech stuff. Most of it is eactly like the original released stuff. The only things I can see that are different between the glaug and tactical pods are the color or the plastic and the decal sheet. Same applies for all the 7" destroids and power armors and invid stuff. The re-issue vf-1 is much different however, though both versions suck. The original one was originally designed to be transformable and then made non-transformable. As such it could be made into a transfrmable one with some work. It had arms that were seperte from each other and had hands. The reissue has a solid mas of arms with no hands. Both had shoulder hinges however, though they had no functional purpose without modification. Don't get either vf. If you have to get one, get an original. The plastic mecha are functionally the same. I personnally think the original takatoku/bandai/matchbox 1/144 3" destroids were better. They came packaged in styrafoam and some had to have parts attached like a wanna be HCM. The rereleased 3" came in either Civil Defense or Tactical Corps paint schemes, like the originals. Unlike the originals they did not have removable pieces or near the ammount of die-cast The best thing about them is that they were cheap and could be used to assemble armies for table top gaming. Here is a pic of four of the ones stamped bandai in their styrafoam. You can see the removable bits and so forth.

GO check this out NOW! Here's the link: http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/_XOOM/ilma...o/emulatori.htm If the link doesn't work, cut and past this address into your browser (remember to change "xx" to "tt" in http in trhe address in your browser.) hxxp://members.xoom.virgilio.it/_XOOM/ilmagazzino/emulatori.htm Everything you need will be there. ------- for some reason the link MAY take you to a page that gives you an "access Denied" message and then takes you to the site's main page. If this happens: Skip the intro and enter the site. Click on the guy's "games" tab on his sidebar and then choose "emulatori" from the drop-down menu. That will take you to the Emu section. THis guy seems to hve everything! ------- Everyone else should check out this site as well!! This site has roms for: NINTENDO: Game Boy / Game Boy Color Game Boy Advance ( roms 0001-1122 ) N64 Nes Snes VBoy SEGA: Gamegear Master System Megadrive / 32X / Genesis MAME: M.A.M.E thru .71 Neo Geo Capcom 1 & 2 ARCADE: Daphne Model 2 Modeler NamcoS22 Zinc COMMODORE: Commodore C64 CONSOLE: Colecovision Intellivision Microsoft MSX 1 & 2 Miles-Gordon Computing Sam Coupe Neo Geo Pocket / Neo Geo Pocket Color Supervision Tandy Color Computer Turbo Graphix 16 / PC-Engine Wonderswan / Wonderswan Color ATARI: 2600 5200 7800 Good d/l speed 150-200 kbps

call me a dumbass, as many do, but can't the newer macs run PC emulators of slightly antiquated windows? The first series of C&C, which is my all time favorite PC game series besides "worms", was win 98 and I know that will run on a friends mac laptop with proper EMU. Find a working mac EMU [EMUlator], and I will send you the pc C&C that I can, though you are better off PM'ing me as I also rarely check the games section.

as the new "show off your collection" post appears and slowly gains momentum... I was just thinking about the "building an army" comments I've heard from time to time. First off... why build an army? I do love my jetfires, but I WILL cut myself off when I have ten complete. Same goes for the matchbox officers pod. I don't think ten of each really qualifies as opposing armies, but what does a hippie know? What exactly qualifies as an army people??? 5 or more of a particular mech? 20 or more of an particular scale? What??? Just curious. Not like I'm plotting here or anything...

buying slump... I'm always in a buying slump... thats why people make fun of me for being so stingy with money. Lord knows I won't be getting a 1/48 till I find one for less than $100 shipped, as if thats going to happen anytime soon. I won a whopping $41.23 worth of stuff off of ebay in the past month. Of that record low total for myself... only $6 of it was for me and the rest is stuff I bought on behalf of gian who finds it easier to get multiple stuff shipped to me and have me ship out one big box. On the other hand... I am involved in a rather large deal that may just benifit everyone here in some way or another when it's all said and done . Till it happens... "slump" does apply.

some people want them. I'm thinking mostly the people who never had one I have considered getting one just to see if I can make it into a proper three mode version as I always found it pretty lame as-is when I was a kid. why not post everting gathering dust eriku, and see if you can't unload it in favor of stuff that will get dusted

$$$$$$$$?!?! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=16467 Good BIN but with shipping...?!?! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=16467 guess the shipping on the prior wasn't that bad ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...18&category=774 don't you hate when they post a pic of a model's instructions rather than the kit/toy?!? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...72&category=774 something about this just seems plain wrong... Can u spot what?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3146416401&category=4696 wheeljackslab is on crack... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3&category=4696 ... good crack apparenly... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...2&category=4696 at least this isn't a HG product http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...2&category=1200 "You get exactly what is show in the picture, even if the title is wrong"... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=36568 the real reason roy focker died... he was flying a cannon http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=16467 wrong id the other way for a change... please don't out bid me unless it goes for more than I can spend... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=36568

you have the thanks of a programming major and his geeky friends And to think I actually made games in BASIC way back when

As far as I know, it doesn't matter much if you have an RGB cable and a TV that supports NTSC. I already did that with my first-gen PS1, I played the US version of "Die Hard Trilogy" on my TV, and it's in NTSC. Same applies to my region-free DVD Player, I can play NTSC discs no prob. why didn't you say something when I sent my psx2 to rob in spain?!?!?! I sent him a ntsc to pal convertor, but it was a while between boxes and rob fried the psx2 trying to mod it. As for the original questions... 1. "Not a clue. Assume it will be obsolete later, as companies start thinking up new ways to detect mod chips. BTW, I was looking around, nd are you sure it's not a Matrix MESSIAH chip" kind of sums it up. It's not so much that companies think of new ways to conter mod chips as the companies making them are served "cease and desist" orders from lawyers. While there have been software mods that made games "uncopyable"..., innovative minds always find a way around it. It kind of comes down to hardware and sony knows it which is why there are multiple current versions of the psx2 just so hardware geeks can't create a chip that will work on all of them. 2. Region free dvd playback would depend on the chip. Can't say for sure about this particular deal. Some mod chips offer it but it is a bootable selection in such that you would have to turn the psx2 off and on when going from one zone to the other and selecting which country code it "should" be during boot-up 3. Yes, you can play imposrt games on an unmodded psx2... if it is an imported psx2. You won't be able to play local games however which is why rob tried to mod his Big O could answer your questions much better [if he happens to check MW anytime in the near future] as I have seen his psx2 do things that really should not be possible. He's more into the x-box thing at the moment however. I'll give him a call and tell his slacker butt to give you some insight... if I remember... ever notice how you can't get a hippie to get another hippie to do anything?!?

no problems using primer as paint, as long as you know the differences between primer and paint. One of the reasons I recomend primer is that you don't have to paint everything. What I mean by this, using my violator valk as an example, is... if you diss-assemble a toy, or leave a model on spruce, when you prime it... many of the impossible to paint areas are already an acceptible color. For me I had to use black primer on the violator valk so that the bright whiteness of the jetfire was no longer visible. I tried to do it with painting and patience, but there was no way I could satisfactorally paint recessed ares like the insides of the legs [visible only when landing gear is down] using only a brush. Spray primer of an appropriate color makes hard to see areas look much better in my opinion. The only thing I can think to tell you is... primer and paint are different in how they react to additional paint applied to them. You may not ever notice the difference, but if you are inking/washing a model/toy, the ink will flow over painted areas slightly better as the primered areas tend to absorb a little more [it is why primer works as primer.] Here is a pic of a 7" tomahawk I did a little while ago. It's since been finished and pics are probably somewhere around here but when this pic was taken it was as follows... I primed the destroid in "citadel" black spray primer. I drybrushed the entire figure with a metallic gunmetal color for highlightling. I then washed the lower portion of the tomahawk with a brown ink. It took two washes rathher than my usual one wash to get the ink in the deposit level I wanted as primer sucks up the pigment faster than painted areas. This fact is easily visible by the fact that drybrushed highlights are still apparent [although less so than before] after being inked. Oh yeah... make sure you chose the appropriate primer color. I know david has found a primer that matches naval ships well, I find black works well for mecha you want to paint quickly as it gives it a depth that makes the fig look "bigger/more detailed" and white works well for anything you want to be brightly colored and vibrant. You can do a proper coat of black primer followed by a dusting of white primer to achieve really vibrant highlights with recessed areas still being dark and mysterious.

Wasn't the Falcon the car used in the Road Warrior/Mad Max movies? i believe it was, but they used a '73-'74 model for that movie, the body style totally changed from the '69 models, the '73 is the same body style as the '70. but for that movie they used a custom nose and rear spoiler for the car Max used. I always thought it was either a ford maverick or an AMC javalin depending on if you were an American or aussie... According to this site it was a 1973 XB GT Ford Falcon Coupe, a car exclusive to Austrailia. Lightning, are you in Austrailia? Just curious because I know of a few Falcons being imported to the US, but they aren't very common at all. good thing I never got around to buying a javalin and welding two 55 gallon drums in the trunk as gas tanks.... I would have felt pretty silly

Mu anyone... we should talk oh yeah... for you music hound out there. My tastes range from infected mushroom to NIN, Janis to CCR, beatles to primus. I have over 500 complete cd's stored on my computer. The important thing in my mind is that less than 1% of my music was downloaded, with the majority having been ripped personally with my anal rententive standards LOL. I don't mind "borrowing" software and games, but have enough musically inclined friends to want them to get the little money they do for their efforts. It would be so much easier if I could just send $100 to trent direct and get all his stuff

Wasn't the Falcon the car used in the Road Warrior/Mad Max movies? i believe it was, but they used a '73-'74 model for that movie, the body style totally changed from the '69 models, the '73 is the same body style as the '70. but for that movie they used a custom nose and rear spoiler for the car Max used. I always thought it was either a ford maverick or an AMC javalin depending on if you were an American or aussie...

is that a clarias catfish you have there? Besides macross I also dabble in Transformers, Zoids and fishkeeping (have 3 seperate and active tanks). My main 2 fish i have is 1 Oscar and 1 Giant Gourami along with a host of plecos, tetras and synos the big one is an albino channel cat. I believe they top out at around 30". Host of plecos you say... Among the other tanks I have 6 whiptail cats, 1 upside down cat, and amazon marble, a lima shovel nose, a tiger lima shovel nose, a striped rapheal, 4 bumble bee cats, three walking cats, a huge rhino pleco, 2 huge common plecos, 2 other common plecos, a clown pleco, a bushynose pleco, three dojo loaches, two clown loaches, three golden algea eaters, and a few others I can't think of at the moment as the damn things are always hiding under a rock or something. What can I say... I like muck dwellers as I don't like cleaning my tanks so fish that like scummy water seem the best idea. The walking catfish are the ones that will really be a problem as they get to near 90 pounds . Thank god they grow slow. In addition to the muck fish I have two feeder goldfish, called lucky and lucky, who grew large enough so the catfish can only suck on them as well as three turtles, 2 sunfish, a war mouth, and a large mouth bass. Yeah... I know that the state can fine me something awful for the bass, but I don't think anyone here is gonna tell them I have one Yep... I have an obsessive personallity so whatever I get involved in usually gets taken to the extreme All these people reading reminds me I need to send a box of books to france oh yeah... nice wabbit ewilen. I remember having a litter trained one as a kid. Cool pets if you raise them as pets rather than rodents

always cool to hear from a lurker for the first time. Welcome. I am sure you will enjoy SOME of the responces your posts get I'm a displaced UP-state new yorker who misses driving across the border to get molsen xxx. On a side note, I've heard many canadians complain about lack of places to aquire valks. How do kevins prices with shipping compare? I know I've heard of some outrageous price gouging at some shops, but have no idea how bad shipping might be.