kanata67

Thankfully the second one I took on was glued a lot less securely and I had little problems having already learned why not to use acetone. I will check around for dry ice as I am rapidly losing patience and I have a long way to go...

that resulted in more hours which left me with this...

As I mentioned earlier... after many hours working with an exacto knife before I was able to seperate the pieces I decided to speed up cleaning the individual parts by diping them in acetone

I unburied my computer and was able to do productive stuff with my camera, including taking pics of my computer when it was buried... but thats for another post. Here is what I have been going through... First off I diss-assembled what I could and put all the parts in a bag so I didn't lose them [real smart idea I should do more often ] Three of them had their arms glued together in fighter mode, one still does as I haven't gotten to it yet but thats easy. I believe all of them with armor [the first milla I worked on had no leg armor] had the armor glued on with the exception of the boosters... thank god. All of them also had the back plate glued to the chest plate which prevents transformation. This last hurdle is wha you all have been helping me with. Here is a pic of the problem area removed from the rest of the parts...

rob might be more inclined to experiment knowing I will happily take anything and everything that doesn't work out quite right

yep. If there were new 1/55's on the way you can bet that there would be talk about them. As is, us monkey lovers have to put up with all the yammie threads until...

Oh definitely. I always spray on some kind of clear onto my models. I just wanted to point out that my experience with Tamiya on toys only extended to my pre-teen days. But even with a clear coat, I still don't know if I'd trust Tamiya on a Yamato. I always go for over kill. I try to make my customs able to withstand my stupid friends as well as a factory toy would... if not better. Maybe I should'a been an engineer, but making a toy strong enough to get dropped is important to me. One of my first recast projects will be a bullet-proof ve-1... Though I need to invest in some industrial wax as I'm gonna have to burn the molds off the "deck sealent" I plan on using .

the clear coat ou use makes all the difference bsu legato... spray silicon bio-degrades in something like 500,000 years. Don't spray indoors but I put water based acrylic painted mini's in a snow globe, clear coated, assembled it, and filled it with water and I had no problems with paint loss for the years I knew the girl who it was given to. Than again I use the same clear coat on my car

well.. tis no longer hypothetical... I have four max, three milla, and one roy. All suffered the same fate back in the day with one of two types of glue it appears. Some were held tight in place while glued and others were not so tight making them more likely to be my early attempts. I managed to make a max transformable in far less time than the first one took, but a assembly line or all at once meathod would be prefered. Just where does one buy dri-ice??? Lord knows I get some odd chems here and there... wich makes me wonder... muriatic acid is stored in a plastic jug... a JM is plastic... would just the glue dissolve? I know chlorine would stain it. Pics as soon as I unbury my computer

amen brotha If you use a cheap brush you get what you deserve... Sable at a minimum. I like the old citadel with a nice chem since outlawed because you can adjust the consistence so it actually "flows" and leaves no lines with a nice brush. After a wash and sealer it often gives more detail than spraying can achieve. Though I have seen some airbrushing masters do amazing things, which I can't... so I don't try... Oh yeah... it's not just that the paint on a real aircraft is sprayed for function rather than beauty, but on military craft the scheme is rarely uniform up close. Many a f/a 18 I fell off while washing had suffered various discoloration from normal operation as well as mass paint removal by overzealous linemen using improper scrub pads . Lets just say when you scrub the numbers off a bird, it leads to some confusion . But hey... I was only in the navy, what do I know

decals cheap on top of your order... http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?HSG65757 minmay guard strike looks real sweet http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?HSG65768 photo etched decals... http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?HSGQG3 I wish I had the money and skill... http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?SHE007 I should check them more often

I spray primer and sealer, but do everything else with good brushes by hand. I Highly recommend the "citadel colour" line in flip top jars, unfortunately they stopped making it over a decade ago and I have a bugger of a time tracking down jars . The new citadel paint isn't bad, but it just doesn't feel the same to me, or have some of the colors I know and love.

britiny spears??? perhaps the chick who played dark angel?

hally, the one in my pic, or both

they never should have killed of joker in the first movie... just what the heck were they thinking? As for the second and third movies... I personally would like to see "the dark knight returns" made into a flick with sean connery playing an old wayne, but thats just me. As for the hally thing... mindless comercialism at it greatest. J lo would have had more appeal and made more sense demographically speaking. Now here is something to purr about...

I picked up two of the sd gundam kits at a local video game store for $6 apiece, and later saw the exact same kit repackaged to be american friendly at TRU for $18! I wouldn't spend that much, but at $6 I consider the money well spent. Took a couple hours to assemble and they reminded me of my SD lintseeker kit. They had polycaps, good articulation, and weapons that fired after assembly.

the base was a yammie 19 with fast packs?

Not me, I couldn't care less about Jetfire. For me, he was always a Valkyrie copy and I was only briefly interested in getting a Jetfire on eBay as a cheap, well-made transforming Valkyrie. Then I got a Bandai reissue. I don't remember whether I saw any Transformers and Gobots before I ever saw Robotech, but they seemed childish and never appealed to me. (I was 19 years old in 1985. Talking transforming trucks didn't do anything for me, but teenage angst and global destruction were both pretty relevant...) first... bobe- I know I would buy a few. As always it would depend on the price. Heck, I'm at 8 now and with a few more parts might make my cut-off of ten soon... but a convinient stack of ten re-issue jetfires would be an entirely different cutoff As for ewilen and all the others, who don't appreciate the moment of glory some children had when they realized the coolest stupid talking robot they had was actually a valk, can feel free to send them to me where I will hold them and pet them and squeeze them and call them george I had jetfire as a kid, as well as some mocross toys but as I lived in the sticks I never even had the chance to see, much less get, even a JM! I had a invid shock, hover tank, and tactical pod back then. I never even got to see an officers pod [say marauder boys and girls] in stock anywhere. The only "valk" I knew was jetfire besides two really cool ones I saw once in a store in boston there wasn't a chance my parents would spring for at $80 a pop. I found out later they were the the ostrich and seeker. About a year ago I found macross world and renewed my love with it tracking down the missing armor for a jetfire a friend in hard times pawned me to replace the one lost in my childhood. I started buying macross again at what seems the best time as it was right when the re-issues came out. I managed to get a few additional jetfires for cheap with armor, which to me were super valks anyway, and eventually I got some re-issues which were transformed once and shelved. My first non 1f were the bandai 17 and 19 which I promptly sold and bought more 1f's. Then I got a 19a in a trade and I guess that is my first true valk as it is a pure image of non jetfire jaded beauty that has no other mental connentations other than itself. Truely a work of art. The 21 was nice as well -thanks david. Now I have more macross stuff and robotech crap than anyone in their right mind could justify, besides perhaps graham . Lets just say that my obsessive personality has taken it above and beyond the bounds of good taste. Look for some interesting posts in the future. Here's a quick question for you all... where do you conveniently store an arnmy? Anwer will appear in army topic when I resize the damn pic It is nice to find out there are people older than me here though . Growing up when disco was cool was a lonely existance for anyone with a brain and for valkyrie312 who inquired about getting a house and a wife... good luck with that .I'd recommend getting the house first and putting it in your name, but thats just me. At the very least I'd recommend living together in some capacity before marriage. They say that over 50% of the people who live together before marriage don't get married, but they always forget to point out that they don't get divorced either . I was engaged for 5 years to my now wife, and we still have issues. At least we have been through enough crap to know that we are both willing to work towards improvement. Oh yeah... never trust something that bleeds for 5 days and doesn't die

hey kid... There is only one sad ass hobby store in town that caters to warhammer mini's. I took me two months to educate them on what a pin vice is before I could get one, so without an actual product name I'm SOL. jesse... Just what I need... a laser . Actually, I have a bunch of lasers around as I needed to get a bunch back when I made individual lasers that attach to the fingers of my nintendo power glove and run off a single power supply so I can better mess with the minds of hippies at raves. Unfortunately the chance of going to a real rave around here is non-existant so another wonderfull creation gathers dust in my closet. Kaolian... I have many years of various construction/demolition experience. I considered using a mini chipping hammer in the "hammer and felt" technique to losen it up, but due to the elasticity of the plastic it doesn't help. Works wonders on die cast stuff though. Freezing it seems like a damn good idea. Do I assume correctly that the plastic will only be brittle while still cold and will go back to normal tensile strength when returned to room temp? I have noticed that warming it in a cup of hot water helps a little [using hot water to rinse off multiple applications of goo-gone], do you think putting it in the freezer for a day and then immediately putting it in hot water would be of greater benifit?

If I had a clue what glue(s) were used I might be worth a shot. The glue on the milla was amberish and the glue on the max [my current exacto/patience project] is of a clear variety. I can't tell about the skull yet as it had less gaps than the max so got put off. I won't know about the others till tomorrow when they arrive [hypothetically as I don't like to jinx things ]The glue was also applied 15+ years ago so I don't even know if it's currently availible or what it might be. At least I know wheat the parts I'm sanding should be like after getting the first one apart.

The ice pick's name is mr floppy ears and is BENNETT's bestest friend... most informed bootleg description I've ever seen... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=36568 Selling a windows folder... now thats ingenious. The relisted one sold no less http://cgi6.ebay.co.uk/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dl...item=3626101535 maybe I should try selling desktop wallpaper a $1 a pop improved joons??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=16467 macoss the board game???? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=16467

Now that is too funny. I not sure how many have seen Mad TV. He would be a prime canidate for Lowered Expectations. props to hurin for a sale well done. What was the starting bid? Looks like I missed my two week window of opportunity to sell some stuff. Ladic... just what were you searching for when you came across that???!?!?!? It is way to funny. Already relisted AND no longer availible... wonder why??? Still... what were you looking for Ladic?

well... hypotetically the first one is done. A red milla back/chest plate was successfully seperated after many applications of "goo-gone" and repeated scribing with an exacto blade. Based on how much I make an hour and how many hours it took, I lost mad money on the deal . Detailed walk through of process will eventually make it to my site alone with all my other projects. I'm good about taking pics as I go but bad about getting around to resizing them so they are web friendly. Naturally, being the hippie I am... After successfully seperating the pices I decided to dip them in acetone based nail polish remover to speed up cleaning the remaining glue. Didn't make a damn difference with the glue but did turn all the exposed areas a nice shade of pink! DO NOT, under any circumstances, use acetone on a JM! I rinsed the part off quickly and was able to repair the damage I caused with repeated washes of red ink, but if I had let the parts stay a moment longer before rinsing them I doub't I would have been able to negate the damage. As is, it added about 5 hours of painting and buffing to the already "not worth my time" project. Hypothetically of course I still could use any suggestions for how to speed up the proccess of glue removal without damaging the plastic... anyone?

one of my favorite pictures I've saved off this site... I didn't add the words but I do appreciate the pictures title It also serves as justification for some of my multiples I was thinking of posting it in the new collections thread, but graham can cross link it if desired.