MechTech

Thanks for putting that out there EXO! I love it! I've found that Micro Weld is also best for using multiple applications. Then the gooey mass on the seams goes together without needing putty and filler. Other cements seem to dry faster without "gooing up" as well. Plus it seems to dry faster than other cements when using the same technique. It also dries as fast with regular use as other solvent based cements. - MT

All of that is funny! I'm keeping my mouth shut though! I have worked on learning Japanese (Katakana), Vietnamese, Italian and even some Icelandic words from friends. I find I'm still having problems with my native English The cool part is that people from other nations want to test or use what language knowledge they have on you. I have been in public places overseas and when people hear your American, you find yourself surrounded. Of course the tough (and funny part) is that "L" and "R" always seem to get reversed with Japanese into English. Just like Russians swapping "W" with "V." I have had some cool stuff though from past orders, all from America. I've gotten a free Robotech T-shirt, various stickers, thank you notes and even free small model kits! - MT

Just seeing this now. The Monster and Regult are still with Yeti. I'll try getting back in touch and see how things are going with him. I want one too and I made the masters! - MT

Despite your pain (and I feel for ya) it looks great so far! - MT

I'm not familiar with that vendor, but it looks cool. Thanks for sharing and keep us posted! - MT

Yeah, you're just missing Airsoft guts. It looks great! Reminds me of the old 1/20th scale firing model and this puppy: http://news.toyark.com/2014/03/14/macross-howard-gu-11-gun-pod-replica-121234 Keep us posted! - MT

Looking AWESOME!!! Yeah, you can never have enough details! That's what usually make the difference to being believable or not. - MT

That's cool Derex. May the force be with your build! No, that sounds too nerdy. Wm Cheng, The yellow came our brilliant, like a chrome yellow. The front end looks great too. Like a candy-apple red car finish (minus the metal flakes). - MT

Every time I check back on this thread, there is something cool in it! I'm glad to see we're getting ground indentations and rooms named after our favorite series! - MT

I was just catching up on this build (looks AWESOME by the way) and bummed to see you're "retiring" from producing kits. Major bummer!!! You just broke a bunch of hearts all across the globe! On a lighter note, hopefully the move and job work out for you! Hopefully you'll ke in touch with us here still too! - MT

They came out great and nice job! - MT

Yeah, I remember that job EXO, it came out great! - MT

Yep, now's a good time if you own Disney stocks My son's eyballing the new SW lego kits and surprised at the costs. He understands why the "smaller" SW kits cost more than the larger Ninjago or whatever kits in comparrison. That kit looked cool built up on the HLJ channel. I've only seen one episode and that was in it. - MT

Nice set and congrats landing one. - MT

Congrats and welcome to the club! I got mine last year for about the same price. I still have my old one from like 30 years ago, but it looks like it crashed into Macross island! Keep us posted. I have the old photos of the rebuilt SDF-1 in a book to make it look like the original crashed version. I'm sure yours will look better, the old one was done quickly for the book. - MT

Are you mass producing, or just a one off? Depending on the curves, people have done all kinds of crazy stuff. NZEOD mentioned some great ideas. Some of the other things I've seen used are the sticky portion of sticky notes (small stencils only), regular putty for one off temporary masks on compound curves. For mass produced compound curved templates I've seen epoxy putty used. I'm guessing commercial masks aren't available for what you want? - MT

Glad to see the TV model will get some help! - MT

This thread will help: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=38794&page=1 Not only are the basics covered, but a lot of good input from builders and questions you may have. - MT

Cool applications Xigfrid! Congrats Mintox! Glad to see somebody representing Macross in the community! Looks like you had some good competition too. - MT

I thought the VF-1 series was small until Mospeda. Compare both to a Legios (Alpha) fighter; it's even smaller yet!- MT

I think Tenjin is illustrating the Macross from lineart and film, not the model kit. Very rarely does box-art recreate the model kit (Except the old Monogram and Revell kits that just a giant photo of the finished model). I've gotta ask the question, will the Monster mecha fit inside the Daedalus? That's what I'd like to know You can see where this is going... - MT

Their armor and accessories are REALLY good (the more recent stuff like MickyG said). I've even got an oddball 1/200 scale B-17G by them that is nice for the size. - MT

That's a BIG piece of resin! I've never heard of that stuff, but, after cleaning the model parts with soap and water (to get the mold release compounds off them) then sanding, it does the same thing. Most models will require sanding for seams and stuff, that alone with the mold release cleaned off will give you a prepped surface that any primer should stick to. The sanding gives the paint a surface to bite into. That was a BIG piece of resin that I'm assuming had no to little sanding on it because of the surface details he mentioned. It looked like that stuff is basically a flat to semi-gloss coat giving the primer a surface to stick to. In that case, it was probably a good idea. Normally though; not needed. By the way, Dupli-color is great stuff with a fine spray tip; I love it. Also, paint strokes should be one long movement over the length of the model. Stopping and starting over the model makes puddles or thicker areas that will give the paint runs or create darker spots. - MT

I AM disappointed. How can you look at the lineart (even the animation which always changes) and come up with the scoop thing? It's reminiscent of Space Battleship Yamato! The Daedalus looks pretty good and the Promethius is too chunky; it needs to be channelled length wise. Thanks Jefuemon, PLEASE let us know if Hasegawa relpies to you. Somebody HAD to look at the graphics too see it was screwed up before going to mold creation. Maybe it was done by the boss' son and nobody wanted to speak up - MT

Ultimately what you need to do is some tests. Most people swear by Future, but that needs an airbrush (something you'll want to consider if you stay with the hobby). Some people like Testor's clear coats, personally I haven't liked the way it laid down in the past. I actually use Krylon's clear coats and paints, plus you get about twice as much for the same price. The Tamiya should work fine. I mention testing first because things happen and you don't want to ruin your model. It looks like you're in Georgia; if that's the case, watch the humidity. High humidity will cloud your nice finish. I spray small amounts in an empty room, move the model to an empty room or closet and let it dry there. Then I'd just air-out the sprayed in drying areas later (usually the laundry room). The A/C keeps the humidity down, that's why a garage won't work (unless it's cooled too). Keep in mind if you are using decals, to use a gloss coat first, then another gloss coat to seal them. Decals on dull coat look like stickers - trust me! If you desire a dull coat (more realistic for the SDF-1), that will go on very last with any weathering. If you are panel lining with pencil, you're good. If you are using a wash or acrylics, you may want to before the clear coats. The clear coats, especially if you're new to this, can be heavy and fill your panel lines in. It's a lot, but hopefully that helps. I'm sure they'll be more people helping you here too! - MT