protostar8

Okay. I tried using some toothpaste then and saw how that works. I read a few places that suggested toothpaste as the abrasive. Polishing with cotton worked okay, but it had a little bit of scuffing left. After the toothpaste, it was better and pretty shiny. I guess the abrasive paste was the key. I'll try starting with a much lower grade of sand paper first instead of just going from my exacto to 2000 grit. Even though I cut pretty much flush with the exacto, I get some odd scratch/scuff marks showing up with the 2000 grit, so maybe a lower grit sand paper first will help eliminate them? I guess it's really one big learning process, so I'll keep at it and post a follow-up IF I can perfect it and I'll note what I did. Edit: Toothpaste seems to work for polishing. It made the parts all nice and shiny again. There are still those new scratch marks, but that may be because of my amateur sanding technique. I'm gonna build another model before Luca likely ships, so I'll gets lots more practice and try to see what works best. However, I plan to clip the sprues with flush cutters (but I cut a little ways off so it doesn't mess up the plastic. I also plan to use an exacto to trim the remainder of the sprue off. I might try hitting it with some 440-ish grit sand paper first to see if it makes a difference over using 2000grit directly. I'm usually very good at cutting flush with the exacto though, so I'm not sure how the odd scratches are being made.

Well, I bought some 2000grit sand paper at Autozone today. I'm less than thrilled at the moment. I tried it out on a blue gundam part (the bottom side of it that doesn't really show up once attached. All it did was scuff the hell out of it. It didn't leave it shiny or polished looking in any way. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? Edit: Tried it on a grey part too, same result. Scuffs it and makes it dull. I am either doing it wrong or there is no way to get that nice shine back. As I don't plan to paint the model, I hope I'm just doing it wrong. Edit 2: When I buff, it doesn't really do anything. Should I be using something in conjunction with the soft cotton to act as an abrasive (like toothpaste or something)?

I'm sure Bandai will pull through. Where there is a will, there is a way. The show worked with 3D cg models that didn't clip, so it should be possible.

Cool, got plenty of old socks and cotton t-shirts that are just starting to get to the point where I'm gonna toss them. Might hold onto them for another month instead. Thanks for the info too!

So using a 1000+ grade of sand paper should make it nice and shiny/smooth just like untouched plastic, right? I don't paint models very often and I really hate those little areas of "dull" plastic left after I use the exacto to clean the sprue mark.

Nice. I actually stopped by Walmart today of all places and picked up a nice $5 flush cutter tool. That thing works great! Seriously, some pieces are almost cut perfectly flush with very little left for me to etch off with an exacto (I have actually had trouble finding where the sprues were on some pieces of the Gundam kit I'm building). They have a green handle and are "flush" cutters on the little package. I'll try sanding a little tomorrow to see if I can do it effectively or if I'll just be super careful on the Luca and Super parts. I know colored plastic always tends to score/scratch way worse than white plastic...(and for good reason, it's hard to see scoring on it since it's already white)

Sounds good. Honestly, I usually don't sand my models down, but I want the Luca to look extra nice. I'm pretty good at getting them smooth with an exacto, but it does leave little "scratch" marks. I'll pick up some of that high grit sand paper.

KK, sounds good. I think I'll just pick up an SMS base then. Now all that's left is to choose a grade of sand paper to make it look extra nice...

So, what's the best action base/display stand to get for under $10 (give or take since the yen/dollar exchange is crazy right now)...

Just thought of something I forgot to add in my last post. DON'T remove all the pieces from the trees before you begin. The parts have numbers near them on the trees, so if you remove the parts and have an "accident" where you mix the parts up, it could be a nightmare for a first time builder. I'd recommend doing what I do, which is cut only the pieces you need for each "step". The manual will be done in steps (numbered usually). It can seem a little overwhelming, but a careful person who takes their time will be just fine. I also forgot to mention that you can usually pick up the really cheap gundam kits (they are like $5-10 with little articulation, basically for absolute beginners) and work on one of those first to learn how to cut off parts or sand down the area that you cut. For a few extra bucks, I think one of those might be an invaluable purchase...

Well, here are two pages that show the kits built with and without stickers. I can't read any of it, but it's a good website. Good luck with your kit if you get one! http://dalong.net/review/etc/mf01/mf01_p.htm http://dalong.net/review/etc/mf02/mf02_p.htm From years of modeling experience with Bandai kits, I'd suggest that if you're a beginner, buy a pair of the little snippers to cut parts off the trees. I use something that does that and love it. Also, no matter what your "first" kit is, I would recommend it be something you don't mind messing up. Like go buy a "stickfas" figure kit (less than $10) or something like that b/c they are cheap and you'll get a feel for using the tools. After you get the feel of using the tools, it's not hard to build pretty much any modern day bandai snap fit kit. Just follow the picture tutorials (which on Gundams have parts with #'s and letters that correspond to sprue trees of parts). It really doesn't take much effort to get familiar with how to use a hobby knife and the little snippers for cutting parts off a tree are almost foolproof. From the looks of the Macross Frontier kits, as long as you are gentle and take your time, you'll be fine.

Actually, I wasn't disappointed at all. I thought his engineering was incredible. He looks great in both modes (though the one hand only gun hole is weird). I usually TF his head area towards the end though b/c I like it better that way. Everyone see the "images" of the new "Fans Project" stuff? The Rodimus Prime upgrade for Classics Hot Rod looks to have potential even though the picture is basically a watercolor painting that got rained on...

Okay. Thanks for the info. I probably won't put numbers on anyway (not a big number fan), but I'm glad the other markings are the same.

Just curious, are the markings for the different valk's Super Parts different? I know the color schemes of a few pieces are, but I'm talking about the actual "markings" on them??? I kinda want to know b/c if I made the Luca into a Super Luca, would that pretty much mean I'd be stuck with his markings on them?

So, now that people have placed orders and such, where is the cheapest place (assuming insured delivery) to get the Luca and Super Parts? Also, does the picture a few posts up that shows Michael's indicate when it will be released? Ah. I looked at this pic and made a bad assumption I guess b/c the stand didn't look like the SMS stand. But looking at it again, I think it's just a special attachment for the SMS base. Oh well, I may have to order an action base too...

Although I believe Luca's fighter does come with a stand that hold it and the three ghost fighters, correct? Plus little stands for the ghost fighters to be displayed separately.

The fast packs don't look nice and sleek like the model kit versions. They just make them look fat.

Sounds good then. I wasn't sure if the back leg armor would really hinder transformation.

Anyone hear any news on Macross Ace Frontier 2? Have they officially announced it yet?

Anyone gonna make their Luca into a Super Luca? I'm kinda curious how it will look b/c the pics on MAHQ of the CG Super Luca don't look half bad. Maybe I'll end up going Super Luca and Armored Michael (assuming Armored parts come out, which I bet will be when Michael is released). Edit: Removed the pics, didn't mean to quote them too. Edit 2: JUST thought about this...If the Super Parts require parts swapping b/c things fit too tightly, what are the chances that the Armored parts would require an almost complete rebuild of the kit b/c those parts are massive...

So glad I got Luca AND the Fast Pack on order from HLJ. LOVING the 3 ghosts that come with Luca that appear to be customizable (at least for the attachments up front). The fast packs still look cool and the swapping doesn't bother me at all. Heck, I never really planned to have Michael without Fast Packs on anyway and since I'm getting them first, I won't have to take him apart.

Wow...just wow....how big of a ******* liar is that guy or girl??? I guess until EVERY alpha has been reported, it's not "widespread"....

Doesn't make much difference to me. I figured it would be something like that since I didn't see connection points from the pics. Also, I don't have a valk yet, so the super pack is pretty much gonna sit around unbuilt until Michael gets released...(though I may try it out with Luca since I'm getting him when I get the super parts) Either way, I'm just glad it looks so good. I don't get why it's such a shock that the parts don't just pop on and require "replacement". It's a complex kit that from what I could see has little room for additional parts in some areas with no visible attachment points and hoping for a "magnetic" attachment system is kinda naive...

Yeah, the knock-off ones are actually WAY better than LEGO blocks IMO. They have much more "mech" oriented parts and joint systems.

I don't think so. From what I gathered (and saw), the items went from "order stop" to "pre-order" at regular price. HLJ has been AWEFUL about Early Bird pricing on some items.