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Everything posted by David Hingtgen
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From the multiple Bulkhead toys the past few years, we know Hasbro knows how to make very bulky bots with intricate transformations, so that doesn't explain FoC Bruticus.
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Character Art Appreciation Thread III
David Hingtgen replied to Vepariga's topic in Movies and TV Series
If they'd only tweak it and make a flightsuit Grace version.... (hey, that body looks more like Grace's than Sheryl's IMHO) -
Slightly OT question----in the first pic, the two big obvious screws----how tight should they be, as in, from the factory? My VF-1S seems to be quite loose there, as in the shoulder can kinda flop around 1-2mm in every direction with no resistance there in battroid mode. I honestly can't remember if that's how it was, or only after I replaced my hinges (official Yamato ones from Graham). I'd have to tighten them WAY more to "hold them down" I think but then it'd also be much harder to lift-n-swing the hinges out 180 degrees to transform. I tightened them down some more recently, but it seemed to have little/no effect. I don't really want to try to "tighten as much as I possibly can" for fear of damaging them. It's just something I don't ever recall see being mentioned about the v2. In short: In battroid mode, is the hinge itself supposed to kinda flop around? Just a small amount, but easily? The arm/shoulder armor is nice and stiff on the balljoint, and the metal pin joint is good, but the hinge assembly itself moves around freely at that screw/plastic ring.
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Bandai also got his approval for the v1 DX VF-25. And Yamato got his approval for "Shin's" low-vis VF-0, except for the one that really was Shin's soon thereafter. Anyways---I do think the black markings are correct/likely. It's VERY similar to the "skunk stripe" pattern many F-14's have. And we all know how people (even the animators) love to have F-14-based markings on their VF-1's. Roy's valk wouldn't look like it does without the Jolly Rogers...
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I'd buy the VF-11 in that scheme. Seriously---was Yamato so burned by the VF-11 they won't even do repaints? I'm betting even the most complex repaint is cheaper than the cheapest new molding of a head or something.
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What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.
David Hingtgen replied to UN Spacy's topic in Hall Of The Super Topics
Most every transforming toy will have identical pins and hinges----practice on one of those first, THEN attempt a pin-removal on an expensive out-of-production valk. Any Transformerâ„¢ will do fine for practice. Personally I sacrificed a BM Silverbolt to learn pin-removal. -
I believe it's supposed to be the Missouri. (I'd have used the Kentucky, as it was actually built but not finished---would have worked very well in an alternate history) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Kentucky_(BB-66)
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Seems FoC Bruticus is doing the "any limb can be any position" thing. THAT right there is a massive fail IMHO. Would explain a lot, too. If they were "dedicated", they'd probaby be better. IMHO.
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1/60 VF-1 Accessory Parts from Yamato displayed at Wonder Fest
David Hingtgen replied to Graham's topic in Toys
Please re-release Milia's 1J with a baby pod, just so I can get her 1J... -
Just saw the "roaring head" 6in classic Lion-O. I think I may actually prefer that sculpt. Did they change the plastic the sword's made of? Looked a lot less bendy in-package. (also, several 6in Cheetaras---she still HTF?)
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Diecast feet!
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Character Art Appreciation Thread III
David Hingtgen replied to Vepariga's topic in Movies and TV Series
Could it be any more pink? I mean, most people would at least have left the TIRES black or something... -
Is Go-Lion not very popular in Japan? If is is popular---why is there no modern figure from any of the major Japanese toy companies? All we get are pathetic re-hashes of existing figs from Mattel and Toynami----same toy we've had for the past 30 years, just with a few gimmicks added in (being it probe-keys or a few balljoints) . Somebody, somewhere, has to be able to figure out how to do a better SCULPT. Red and Green lions are always my reference point---they usually look pathetic in lion mode, and are often 50% joint-bits in arm mode.
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Fin/wing angles still all wrong from head-on. Tell 'em Graham! (canards and wings should be parallel, ventral fins and tailfins should be aligned with each other)
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Anyone willing to copy/cast a single small piece for me?
David Hingtgen replied to David Hingtgen's topic in The Workshop!
EXO suggested 3D printing as well. The shape is simple, basically a rod stuck to a triangle. And 1 rivet detail and 1 depression. I'll check into epoxy putty molding, too. -
Maybe a bit OT, but I have a model train which has lost a part, and there's basically no way to get a replacement. However, there are several copies of this part on it, so I just need another one of them----is there any chance someone here who does resin casting would be willing to copy this part for me? Frankly I do not want to go through the expense and trial-n-error of learning resin casting myself just for a single little part. It'd probably end up costing half again what I paid for the model in the first place. But I'm more than willing to pay someone who aready knows what they're doing for their time/materials cost. It's just a small little piece, basically an "L" about 1cm long.
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Michael's is the odd one out. A lot of the smaller details are "opposite" of the others, even Luca's. Asides from the overall green color, Luca's has very similar patterns/details to Ozma/Alto. Looking at the decal sheets for the model kit's boosters clearly show this---Michael's will always "break the pattern" and not be purely a blue color swap compared to the other 3---it'll either reverse the colors, or something.
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All Things Video Games Thread: II
David Hingtgen replied to Wanzerfan's topic in Hall Of The Super Topics
I never unnecessarily remove the disc from any system. If there's nothing else to play at the moment, and it's a good long RPG, a single disc can remain in for weeks. Heck, I think my Dreamcast spent like a year with Soul Calibur 1 inside it. (wanted to play it again, and never took it out or played anything else for a long while--kind of forgot about it) My Gamecube spends most of its time with the GBA player disc inside. (yes, I play Gameboy games on a 32in HD screen---nyah!) -
Bruticus Maximus is expensive because he's the more "realistically colored" version of the mold, and the one intended for FP Bruticus. I always held off on Crossfire due to the parts not matching my Energon Barricade, figuring they'd do the obvious and re-release them with parts etc colored to match that one. Kind of surprised they didn't, but far more surprised that the re-release had no combiner parts at all!
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That's a 'shop, not actually a different pic/transformation. It's probably correct, and there's probably a whole lot of other changes the actual figure can do to look better. Anyways, I've seen a ton of comments on several boards about Vortex's coloration---well, that's what we've known it to be for like 6 months now. The game doesn't have him as quite so bright and shiny, but "golden with red" is his new scheme. Come to think of it, Blast-Off isn't so coppery either, but his bronze-brown art does pay homage to his G1 colors. But again--these are Hasbro's shopped pics, and no toy ever looks nearly as shiny/metallic as the official pics. How many times have we thought "wow, this time they're actually going to use silver paint/chrome" and gotten dull grey plastic? I wouldn't expect Bruticus' arms to be very bright 'n shiny in the end. Vortex should have a black head and silver blades though, officially. Not so much red: (and his blades should fold up on his back----IMHO that's a major difference for no apparent reason---the toy has the standard "opposing blades swing 90 degrees to lay on top of each other, effectively making a double-bladed weapon)---except, that's not what Vortex does. They should be like how Energon Vortex did, with adjacent blades swinging 90 degrees. It's a simple thing to do, Hasbro's already done it before and recently. It'd have been easy to make the blades look just like the art does, in bot mode.
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Posted too soon---Vortex clearly has a full hand for Bruticus.
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Swindle's upside down, that I think is the biggest difference from what he "should" look like in combined mode. (all the mis-transformation in the world wouldn't affect that). Everything else---I'll wait until Peaugh gets his copies and transforms them properly. TF fandom rule #1---the more anticipated a figure, the worse Hasbro will mis-transform it for the reveal pics. I sure hope he has a left hand, and not just a "pile of bits to make a weapon"-----having no real hands is probably the #1 thing that irks me with so many combiners.
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Experten again---Full Armor VF-11: http://experten.cocolog-nifty.com/blog/vf11/index.html
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I think it's time for V2 1/60 YF-21 and V2 1/60 VF-22S
David Hingtgen replied to Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0's topic in Toys
Agreed with Shin. Get rid of the stupid removable limbs and you'll eliminate most of the annoying joints/flaws/breakages in that valk---the thigh/hip joints especially always want to move along the "remove legs" direction, and not the "transform legs" direction---causing stress, annoyance, delays, floppy poses, etc. Plus with how sensitive the belly plates are to 0.5mm of movement in any direction----unnecessary joints are bad. Plus I want a backplate that stays down in fighter mode via a tab or something, like the 1/72 did---the 1/60 is held in by pure friction, and as evidenced by several people's pics (including mine)---it doesn't always work. My 1/72's backplate was awesome. (my first 1/72's---my second one with FP's wasn't as good for some reason---and again I wasn't alone in that regard, many people reported that issue with their FP 2nd-version 1/72) And belly plates that actually "lock" into place would be nice---again, they're mainly held in by friction and are under constant stress---that's why they POP open, instead of merely "falling" open when they let go. The rear/lower edges barely barely tab into the foot area----the tabs are several mm long, but only like 1mm if that barely catches on the foot-cover-hinge thing. Oh yeah, almost forgot---DARKER BLUE. The first 1/72 was perfect. The 2nd 1/72 was purple. The 1/60 is like cobalt blue. I've seen M+ several times---the plane Guld flew was a *dark* blue. Yamato's 1/60 is way too light/bright, it's darn near the color of Max's 1J. -
The Incredible Hulk. That's why he's green(ish).
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