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David Hingtgen

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About David Hingtgen

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    David Hingtgen
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    1762

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    Male
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    USA
  • Interests
    Airplanes (especially airliners), trains, warships.

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  1. Knowing Bandai's love of hollow expanding pins in their joints, I imagine almost all DX's have some degree of cracking (even on a microscopic level), and dyes will immediately soak in and make the cracks more visible. (and possibly exacerbate/weaken them).
  2. My Ozma -29 had its nosecone yellow (top half only), and so the contrasting colors between the halves made it obvious. "Retro-brite"'d it for days and got it 95% un-yellowed, but it came back already. So I think the only permanent solution is to paint the whole nosecone. My fear is that the -25/-29 nosecone "tucks into the chest/nose gear bay" during transformation, and it might get scraped off. I also know that Ozma's -29 DX plastic seems awfully "repellent" to paint, as it took a ton of effort to panel line and paint just a few tiny details back when it was new. I'd like to avoid sanding down the nosecone for adhesion, as I'd prefer to mask around the 'arrow' detail on the nose, and preserve it if at all possible. PS---I would much prefer not to airbrush, and just use a spray-can, but would be willing to airbrush if there's some miracle paint that adheres way better than anythin in a can.
  3. David Hingtgen

    Hi-Metal R

    VF-0D on sale for $115: https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/macross-zero-hi-metal-r-vf-0d-phoenix-shin-kudo-use?utm_source=Klaviyo&utm_medium=campaign&_kx=wRuf1yi8iF0T4Qodv9srmYTFbut9Fivk6ACOPQDm6PM.QPkpvt
  4. One of the very few official illustrations that shows the proper "very pale pink" overall color of the MAXL. (it's not pure white!)
  5. After checking Roy again, I do think it's the "tabs way to the rear" that slot into the top of the chest plate near the airbrake---as in, the ones the KO really needs to have sanded down or it's nigh-impossible to transform without cracking/snapping something. So now I'm trying to "thicken them back up" with nail polish, to find the perfect balance of "holds it down a bit better in jet mode" and "can actually transform to battroid mode without making terrifying bending and cracking noises". Of course, a genuine Roy does both right out of the box... I think the KO's tabs are too TALL (and need sanding down), but also too THIN (front-back mainly) and need thickening. Which creates problems in both modes...
  6. I'm trying to get my Fugu Jetfire fitting together as well as possible, but I just can't figure out how to fix this gap at the intake----my original Roy fits nice and tight there, but there's no obvious lock or post---I can't figure out what holds the chest plate down on the original, and why Jetfire is so loose and just kind of "floats above the intake"
  7. New thought: Prime Day is next week. And they keep bugging me about getting the Prime Card. $200 instant gift card... 5070 super family is "too far away, and will be too scarce and too expensive at launch". Plus, even a 5060 is going to "outperform the rest of my PC"----my new plan is "get a 5060 right now to tide me over, wait until the 5070 Super Ti is readily available in a pre-build, then buy a whole new PC". (assuming the current trend of "it's cheaper to buy a pre-built then make it yourself" holds true). My case is so old that it'd be a poor decision to re-use. The PSU is probably the only thing I could re-use in a new build, so buying EVERYTHING individually would be a lot more than a pre-build likely would.
  8. Well, with the super 5070 and super 5070 ti news, I think I'll wait and see---they seem like they may be worth the wait+price.
  9. Gerwalk just doesn't "work" IMHO, with the wings hanging off the calves.
  10. 5060 ti's seem to be in stock fairly regularly, tempted... What are the pros and cons of "short wide card with 2 fans" vs "long skinny card with 3 fans", if any? I do like quiet, so if one style has a more "pleasant" sound than the other... Both MSI and Asus have annoyed me lately to varying degrees, thinking Gigabyte or maybe even PNY?
  11. Ironically, they're not glued in ENOUGH now, I think. Looking carefully at how the backplate flexes etc, on Roy----I actually decided to glue down Jetfire's as flush as I can. Then will reinforce it THEN see if I can get it to clip both in and out, nicely. The screw just isn't enough, at least not with the cheaper (more translucent?) plastic Jetfire's made of. It's definitely lighter/more flexible it seems. (also, a Roy booster really doesn't want to fit onto a Jetfire clip)
  12. I compared Jetfire to an early Roy, and I see what you mean----a real one has this edge smooth and rounded, while Jetfire has it quite sharp and squared off: I do not think that is whole story though--your backplate looseness theory also seems to play a role----Jetfire's clip fits onto Roy pretty well, despite the sharp edge. I think it's the double-whammy of the sharp edge AND the backplate having issues, that combine to make attaching the booster-clip such a struggle.
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