Rock
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Everything posted by Rock
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Remasked. Reshaded. Recandied. White, post shaded with Tamiya Black. Filled the white in with the FS blue (Mr. Color 328) called out in the manual. Added a few drops of black to the blue after preshading/covering the white to blend in with the black. From there I mixed in some Tamiya Racing Blue Metallic and some Mr. Color EX Clear Blue. The mix thinned heavily with Mr. Leveling thinner to allow a wetter coat with more translucency and gave the whole thing a few coats to tie it together. In the sunlight she pops and the shading is still visible! From there remasking (hell) begun for the gold accents. I choose to stick with Mr. Color 9, so that the gold would match the gold used on the decal lettering. I don't generally like this gold compared to Gianotes or Starbrite, I have to admit it does look sharp on this planes livery!. Sometimes it is best to cut the tape to the thickness of the stripe you want and then mask around it to get uniform/even spacing. You'll waste a bit of tape but, much better knowing everything it 100% the correct thickness! Just keep masking! Had to remember to periodically reassemble the kit to make sure the arm's and underside body's lined up. 2 parts thinner to 1 part color did nicely over my white shaded paint (no gloss black undercoat required!) Surprisingly, not many touch-ups and corrections were needed. About 14 total, nothing major. All said and done, about 7-8 hours of masking! But!!!! SO WORTH IT!
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Got to work with what time I had. After corrections, Mr. Surfacer 1500 was reapplied as a black base. I then zig-zag'd my airbrush over the surface with some AK Colors white. At this point I remembered this build is a 'clean' build and wanted to switch to a more purple/blue undertone. I remembered I still had paint left over from my VF-19 Ravens build last year(s) and began stippling and using templates to create variations in undertone. From here some Gaia Color EX-White was used (1:1) for do some very loose pre-shading and highlights. This stage is always challenging because the old-gunpla builder in me wants to keep preshading until full color smoothness is achieved. For aircraft, I find sloppier, the better. Lastly, I grabbed some Mr. Color 316 FS White and went to a 1:1:1 mix (color, leveling thinner, regular lacquer thinner.) This is the color I believe all VF-1's are called out for in Hase's instructions. I actually really like this white and keep it on hand. The 316 white was then airbrushed over a few key panels and then the pressure was turned up and light quick passes were applied over the entire surface to achieve a (hopefully) subtle look! I will let this dry and then re assemble the kit to make sure things look uniform and adjust as needed. Forgive the sloppiness. As most know, my hobby room died when the wife took over the space as a work-from-home office. I was a little reluctant to setup the spray-booth for a 'quick' paint job. So... just sat in the back porch rocker and let the fresh air deal with the fumes between rain showers with the dogs. Next up, hopefully were masking up for some color!
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Why the blonde and not one of the gals from MacrossF? I mean Kathy was good enough for the deculture decal set Bandai did for Ozma's 1/72
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Went ahead and installed some of the clear parts, I tend to always make a mess of the job if I do it after painting. Installed, sanded and then coated in Microtech's brushable liquid masking film. Hopefully the edges stay as sharp and clean as they are here. Finally got time to drag out the airbrush for the black basing. Everything looks wonderful except for the nose cone. Not sure what happened. Part of me think the canopy glue stayed wet on the inside and slowly ate at the plastic. All the way around the joint is like this. Giving me old Testors glue tube vibes when you'd apply to much. So off to fix it with some putty. Masking off details to try to save myself on rescribing later.
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Got them flat spots in for ya R. Personally, I never thought they made much difference as they weren't really convencining of weight on tires. On my F-14's I really want to grab set of resin wheels that look deflated. Intakes smoothed out and rescribed. Head built, probably the smoothest fittong part of the kit! Legs finished up. All glued together and puttied for a gap-less fit. It'll make painting a pain but, I feel the resulting finish will be more uniform than painting the flaps separately. And there we go! All together, (minus the clear parts.) A few more rounds of smoothing and it'll be ready for black base!
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You're missing the other 2 Flip Knights, LT.
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Things! A little bit of plastic, 0.02mm wire and a whole lot of tedious threading! The goal was just to create a bit of raised detail. One day I'd love to go in and fully rebuild the inside bay details. But, this kind of work is very tedious and time consuming. With that I fit together the lower leg assemblies and got them glued together. The fit wasn't very good so the pegs were cut and everything slid together as even as possible. I'll have to come back with some CA Glue and fill the gaps for sure. I also decided to use some melted and stretched spure/runner to add another little detail to the rear bays. Meanwhile a little signal light was fashioned out of plastic board for the front gear, a little asymmetry to keep it interesting. From here it was seam line repair time. A bit of ca glue was applied and then the parts sanded down with 180, 320 and then a 400g soft sponge before the lines were rescribed. And with a careful flip, this Valk is finally standing on it's legs as one! Lets keep going!
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Platz 1/144?
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Macross DYRL in 4K UHD with English Subtitles
Rock replied to GGemini's topic in Movies and TV Series
Grabbed my copy. Amazon now has it 39% off! -
God Gundam II announced for the 45th G-Gundam side story events with a tie-in lazy Metal Build variant just in time for the OG release.
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Congratulations Hasegawa on printing an instruction booklet in full color! 👏
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A Merry Christmas indeed!
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The 'Hey look at this really cool model build I saw' post
Rock replied to Shawn's topic in Model kits
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What are we guessing the wait for the VF-19A SVF-440 Dullahan's will be?
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It was your own thread too! 🤣 https://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/topic/51068-wave-172-yf-29/#comment-1694585
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https://hobby.dengeki.com/event/2372651/
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Hmmm... might have to wait for the White Unicorn (Amuro/Green Divers) color way at $400
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Mr. Color's GX series, Gaia's EX clears, all thinned with Mr. Leveling Clear. GX100 Super Clear III (UV Cut) is probably the best gloss clear I've used outside of a 2k clear. GX113 is their flat coat in that respect. There are a few downsides, I've notice quite large particles (grit) in some jars, not sure if a bad batch or age related. It looks like dust when sprayed out onto a clear part. Secondly, they require a lot of thinning. They take Mr. Leveling Thinner really well but, you will go through a lot. I use a 1(paint) : 1 (laquer thinner) : 1 (Mr. Leveling Thinner) ratio. Lastly there is a big downside being that you only have gloss and flat. All other finishes must be hand mixed between the 2. That is why I rely on Gaia Notes EX clears more often these days or when the project cannot be sprayed in one go. EX-03 (gloss,) EX-04 (Flat,) EX-10 (semi-gloss.) The whole Gaia EX line is fantastic and the colors have blown MR. Color out of the water for a long while*** (in my opinion.) *** If you want a really fun paint look for their new EX-06 Fluorescent clear, it makes almost anything shine under a fluorescent/black light, such a cool product! With LED lighting models being so popular these days it definetly has a niche. I do rely on Alclad II Clears (lacquer) for final coats still. Anything more than a mist and I have issue with them (dry spots and yellowing.) I really like their Light Sheen Klear Kote which is about as close to a suede finish, and Semi-Gloss. Love them for my final overcoats on kits. FWIW The MIG Ammo line is just rebottled Alclad. The bottles used to clearly state that but, they since have renamed them. Just working on my (probably not going to finish on-time) GBWC entry and trying to become more comfortable with putty sculpting, carving. Until this project gets to paint, I won't drag out my whole spray setup, which is what the other projects are awaiting anyways.
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The only thing I recommend Aqua Gloss for is brush painting on lens/sensors after you've matte (lacquer) top coated a kit. Things like Gundam Eyes, Camera's and Screens inside cockpits.
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So your scheme remonds me of a Shoei helmet I recently bought... love it!
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Siren! https://x.com/hobbywatch_jp/status/1822075490825609673?t=ZJvt3ZtATSSgVjoVT8dX7w&s=19
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FIIIIIYA!
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- sheryl nome
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