Neova

Max Super 1J is out! Got word it has landed but waiting on deliveries. I can't wait to take pictures of them.

That sounds like one of those CAM machines. With a 3D Digitizer, we can "recast" all of the models / toys / parts etc... we want with near perfect replication! Sounds like a good and bad idea at the same time for the industry.

You know, I always say "The bird in the bush is worth 2 in the hand." I'm still in for my 2 Valkyrie.

Both 1/48 Max and Millia Super VF-1Js will come Fast Pack equipped ONLY for now. Durability wise, all of the 1/48s are roughly the same QC/QC wise now. My 1S and 1J are super tight. When my 1A comes in, I'm sure it will be just as good. You say you have a 1/55 and 1/60 already and am deciding between the 1J and 1A? I say sell both and get 1/48 versions all of them! You won't regret the upgrade!

Graham, Don't you live in Repulse Bay or was it Stanley already? and you need a bigger house? Oh I get it... The Monster WILL be coming out in 1/48 scale... Thanks for the "tip". Folks, just move along, there is nothing to see... No that is not a VB6 in Graham's garage...

Isn't most of the mech line art also in Macross Design Works? If not, then the M7:TIAS are totally worth it. I almost flipped when I found out my Macross VFX/2 Graphics Guide had the same mech line art as Design Works. Beautiful guide but redundant.

If take apart, wash your toys, and let it air dry COMPLETELY, there should not be any rust. You should also use a properly sized screwdriver when removing screws to prevent stripping and scratching the finish.

Yes he is, and also a personal friend and fellow black market... err... GREY market toy dealer! He's a good guy to buy stuff friend, if not buying from me.

That little Joker is awesome! Great work! Funny how simple geometric shapes looks so cute in the Macross world!

Now that is a nice "stock" Valkyrie! Great job Kurt! Is there an LED in the visor? If so, where did you hide the wiring? I was planning on that same mod to my Hikaru.

Very nice custom. Keep it up

You need to ensure you have the correct finish and colors. The finish makes a difference since it will affect the look of the color under certain lighting conditions. For painting, any good ENAMEL should do, or if you wish to use water based acrylics, paint and spray a finish coat to protect it since they don't hold up that well with a lot of contact. Tamiya, Mr. Color, Testors Model Master line and others should be ok. Just mask the area you want to paint. If its chipped, you should still mask off the whole area and repaint a THIN layer to get a smooth consistent finish. Spray if possible. Spray can or cheapo spray system with practice is easier than a really good hand paint job. Apply a matte finish or get flat paint. The factory paint looks flat to me anyways. Or spray the whole Valkyrie matte after you're done if using semi-gloss or gloss enamels to even out the finish. Oh yeh, practice painting something first to test your consistency and good luck.

Not out yet. At least, my deliveries from Yamato has not arrived yet.

There is a canopy glue out there that model guys use to glue clear parts. It goes on milky but dries clear, like white glue but much harder. Do a search in the model forums and let us know how it goes.

Hiriyu, That is great. Can you take side shots of the fighter cockpits, say from the edge of a table? Individually, but from the same relative distance and same position would be perfect. I want to see both sides shots to compare heights. I know the VT-1 and VE-1 have the rear seat set higher and closer to the front seat vs the 1D with nearly the same level seats.

This is a picture request for someone who has at least all of the above (any VF-1x - 4 total) by Yamato's 1/60 collection. I would like to see side by side battroid modes of them (left to right front, sides and back) and plane (wings spread) of them. These will be used mainly as relative comparison pictures. I was wondering if the 2 cockpit configurations were "longer" in fighter and battroid mode or where they just deeper cockpits.

You're not the only one! And a VE-1 Elintseeker to boot! Graham mentioned it would not be likely to see this pair in 1/48 scale though. Also note that the 1/60s are getting real hard to find. Hopefully this is just a sign of Yamato gearing up for new products and will re-issue these in the near future.

Graham, Thanks for the pictures. The painted version looks AWESOME. But like all prototype models in magazines, the production version will probably differ in paint quality and detail. Painted panel lines on a 40 ish product? I doubt it. I went back and compared those 1/60s and production version falls slightly short but nevertheless, impressive. I agree about the nosecone / hip joints. It just screams "Look! I'm a big bone boy!" I hope Yamato will consider 1/72 and up SUPER detail on par with the 1/48 versions by xmas.

I got the stands for pre-order down in my sig. Its nice looking but you're right, 15 USD for those nice acrylics are hard to beat. Its too bad these weren't DYRL Launch Arms.

Edward, You wouldn't live in HK would you? Cuz my model told me about someone who was doing this but I thought it would be jet propelled and not push prop! Awesome in anycase!

Kakikazi, Check your PM.

Holy on the USS Flag. I also collect Joes and damn, that is a great find! 100% complete! Now go buy some real estate and setup that GI Joe, Macross, Transformers, Star Wars, Star Trek, Battlestar Galactica, Gundam, Captain Harlock, Space Cruiser Yamato and whatever else crossover museum for us old school toy lovers!

I googled the net and found this out: 1. ABS can yellow with UV and direct sunlight 2. ABS usually has stabilizers to absorb UV 3. Heat can also breakdown the stabilizers that prevent yellowing Everything that was said here is covered by Google. Preventative measures: 1. Place toys in non UV enviroment, check light bulbs. 2. Keep toys in cool, dry but not super dry rooms 3. Add a UV protectant OR PAINT the Valkyrie as the paint will absorb the UV. 4. But add a UV protectant to prevent the PAINT from fading. 5. Add anti-uv film to your windows or when replacing windows, by ones with UV blockers, at least to the room where you display your Valkyries. Checkout these links for more info: http://www.albemarle.com/saytexfr_abs.htm http://www.mcnett.com/images/editor/UVQUEST.pdf http://www.sdplastics.com/ultravioletresistance.html Commericial Grade Anti-UV coating - Looks like an acrylic plastic coating but in an 8+ gallon drum! Can be sprayed but I don't know if airbrushing will work. http://www.shopabatron.com/Merchant2/merch...uct_Code=800020 There are smaller better solutions so if someone can hitup Home Depot for something usuable in an airbrush, let us know. I'm definately going to try to get some anti-UV top coat spray or bottle and take care of my toys. Toys or not, I hope to pass my 1/48s down as a family heirloom one day. Who knows? They may be worth more than that old piano one day!

I should have clarified - color coordinated against the rest of the team: Max with Blue heatshield, Hikaru with Red and Kakikazi with Green from DYRL. Here is a reference. I know, NOT official but cool looking nevertheless. Sigh... I need to budget for another 1/48 to have this "variant". Sept 2002 Hobby Japan

3M coating products should not harm paint, ink or decal or anything. I know the anti-UV products (and their clearcoats) were designed for paint (walls), inkjets, printers, high quality print ads and other commerical grade stuff. The hardest part is actually finding it for normal guys like us. Perhaps the graphics designers here can help us out cuz I can't find enough info on their website. www.3m.com