Neova

Off the top of my head, 3M. They have stuff in spray cans but it would be nice if the product is available in a big bottle. This way, I can airbrush it on, then seal the whole thing up with a future acrylic floor polish + matte coat combo. or perhaps mix it into the future and matte coat.

I know the YF-19 is not white but from the boxed pictures, it appeared there where multiple shades of tan (some darker, some lighter, some with yellow tinge). I brought that up since I saw a MISB YF-19 on some store's shelf and it had a very consistant tan shade, unlike Graham's pictures. It could just be the pictures though. I think I'm going to apply a coat of anti-uv spray after I detail up the Valkyries. Thanks for the tip!

Yamato Valkyries are accurate (so are Bandai's) since Studio Nue and Big West would approve of the color designs before production is OK'ed. I always thought the Yellow heat shield looked really good on Roy though. The color coordination made sense but the cool factor of the black heatshield can't be ignored. There was a long discussion about color matched heatshields in the thread about Max's VF-1S heatshield. DYRL showed it as black but "officially", its blue. Animation errors.

You guys got me all concerned over my 100+ investsments. So here is what I want to know, especially to guys with BIG collections like Graham, Sithlord XSTOYS and others: Do you guys WASH your valkyries to remove residue, finger prints, and other contaminants before you display them? Do you also COAT your newly cleaned Valkyries with anti UV and /or clear coats to protect them? Model guys like Kurt, Jung, mlz22 and wmcheng, chime in here!!! Or did you guys just toss them on the shelves, leave them in the boxes and had no yellowing? One thing I heard was to seal the toys AIR TIGHT in a tub. Seems that along with UV, oxidation of the plastic will yellow it. So perhaps a coat of future + matte finish will prevent a lot of yellowing. I saw Graham's YF-19 boxed pictures and man, they sure looked yellow to me. I'm worried about my 1/48s that are still in boxes until I settle down and buy some display cabinets. I might need to give them all a squeeky clean bath, before placing them back into storage.

The revised first version is my favorite. I love it.

It would be good for customizers who repaint everything but personally, I would also want a strike cannon. Its an option for those who can live without the Strike cannon.

If someone wants the Max or Millia TV Blue and Red Colored FP seperately, I will part out VF-1J Max and Millia sets. Otherwise, Yamato has not indicated any plans to release without them. PM me and I'll set it up

You're correct about the Sundowners decals, but they didn't come out of a Revell kit. The decal package has Albatros Modelworks on it. Too bad I couldn't get the tail sections to look right, because I originally intended to have the Sundowners scheme. If you have patience, you can always mask the tailfins and paint the rising sun on it. Base white coat, let it dry, mask with negative circle and stripes, paint red, let dry, and peel off the tape. Walla... might want to practice on something first to test your masking skills.

That looks really good with the FP setup. But take some pictures with a contrasting background (lighter colors) to bring out the details and colors of the Valkyrie.

I wish Yamato and Bandai would release all of thier new Macross products in boxes like thoses. That is a true piece of Macross history. Great buy and enjoy it!

Why is there a difference in value between YF-19 1st, 1.5 and 2nd? and what about the YF-19a? I figure the newer editions would fetch more since they have fixes which are more desirable. Or is it just nostalgia?

I have a couple of questions: Will the re-cast weigh more than the originals? I worry about the extra weight in Battroid mode , placing more stress on the backpack, and having the Valkyrie tilt backwards. Will the re-casts eventually "wear" creating fine dust particles in the missile packs? Can we get a re-cast set in some kind of plastic such as an epoxy mix? I don't think you can tint that and will require painting. Depending on the answers, I might be interested.

That was definately banged up during transit. My guess is that more filler could have helped it out but even I sometimes ship boxes without filler to keep the weight down and without breaking the bank of my customers. See if you can talk to UPS about some form of compensation since they should never allow such damage. Still bubblewrap is relatively cheap and the added bonus is that all of my shipments will float should the plane decide to toss the packages out over sea. My bubblewrap distributor loves me!

I see your point and stand corrected on the E. Cutting the Destroid in half by the seem takes away from the beauty of it. Can you perhaps move the picture over so we can see most of the torso centered. It might cut into the words on the sides. or take a verticle center cut section of the Destroid art and place it on the sides. I personally love the first design for the top of the box. The 3 modes really spells "variable".

Looking good except for the sides. I want to see as much of the Koenig there as possible. how about a Gerwalk on one side and Bomber on the other? Also, Koenig is missing an E I think.

nm...

Wow! Great job! Keep it up!

First stock 1/48? I would say VF-1S Hikaru from DYRL. It is out of stock and out of production until the next run. 2nd hardest to find 1/48 next to the Low Vis. My personal favorite with FP setup. Want a unique 1/48? Get a customized 1/48 such as an Enigma, Cannon Fodder, Blue Rose or even a simple repaint like DYRL VF-1S Max and VF-1A Kakikazi. One hard core Macross fan just had his customized VF-1S Max shipped and could show pictures once he receives his. My VF-1A Kakikazi is almost done and will be up for sale. Pictures to follow. Otherwise, you can't go wrong with Roys VF-1S (get a reissue) or Hikaru's TV VF-1J. Those two are THE standards in Macross.

Psst... Click on the link in my sig...

I know Yamato did a factory move due to some "ahem" problems and it may indeed have impact on the 1/48s. But AFAIK as of today, there are no "new" delays for the 1/48 Super VF-1J Max. It should be out ~ beginning of April. Millia should follow.

John, That weathering looks FANTASTIC! I would love to see Roy's VF-0S at "veteran" status with that weathering! When you have time, can you do a step by step perhaps? Us model newbs need all the hand holding we can get! Keep it up!

Scan in the original decals, trace over them with Illustrator or cleanup as some call it, print it out, compare to the original, test fit, resize, print out again. Repeat for all other decals. One you create 1 kite shield of 1 size, you can resize to get the correct scales and recolor for other versions. It just takes time. If you're using waterslides, you better make sure the ink STAYS on the decal sheet when you soak it. Using a top coat or water resistant ink would help. I'm working with someone to see if I can get those printers for you guys. If you guys need to print a LOT of decals and stickers, my friend owns a print shop which may help you with high volumes.

The IHP ones look even better! Glad to know IHP now works for Yamato!

David, Would another Hasegawa kit be a better base to start with? The last thread that was brought up by the seach referred mostly to 1/72s. I can't find many (any) revell kits here but Italeri and Fujimi kits abound. I found 3 1/48 Hasegawa F14as which I could sell off the decals and convert. The only other kit in this size was the Italeri F-14as which are so so detail wise.

If our custom art contest is a bust, I can still turn out near original or better artwork with scans from the original box (colored vesions). We will have to decide if we wish to limit the production run to keep the original artists happy. For B/W, we can just xerox those.