MacrossJunkie
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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie
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I coated it to make sure it would become clear first, or else I'd have had to come up with another plan. Fortunately, it worked and so I just went ahead and tinted it sometime after. I wonder if the paint actually had metal particles that was causing micro-abrasions in the plastic when I was trying to get the yellow tint off. The Future coating would have filled in the abrasions in any case.
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Thank you. Yes, the canopy was kind of milky and no amount of cleaning made any difference. It was just the plastic. Coating it with Future fixed it right up though. The front piece wasn't milky like the canopy was. My tinting mixture was 5 drops clear yellow, 1 drop clear orange, 2 drops Future (for leveling and extra gloss) , and 2 drops of tamiya thinner. Sprayed at a low psi (approx 15psi). When cleaning off with the alcohol, just make sure the swab is not soaking wet, but just damp so it doesn't soak through the tape or squeeze out of the swab.. It takes me about 15-20 min or so to get the tinting off from just carefully rubbing back and forth and changing swabs occasionally when the tips are caked with paint.
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I definitely would. The YF-21/VF-22 are among my favorites and they could use a redo according to today's standards.
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It's definitely doable. Just have to take precautions to keep yourself from rubbing off the framing. Otherwise, you'll need to color match the dark gray and do touch ups. Thanks! Without being able to take these darned things apart, I can't think of a way to properly give that recessed look. My previous attempt with putting a smoked tint didn't achieve the results I wanted, so I may just leave it be. It would just be like those 2d perspective drawings that only look right from a certain angle. Stupid Bandai for making it too hard to take these apart. Makes me wish they made a kit like Yamato did with the VF-1's.
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Well, here is how I did the forward section of the canopy if anyone wants to try. Please excuse the crap phone camera photos I've been taking. The area is very small with hardly any room to work with for a cotton swab, so I masked it off as a precaution. Carefully rubbed it off with the alcohol and cotton swabs. Sprayed it with the tinting and here we go. Now you can see inside like you should instead of it being like trying to look through a frosted church window. The red sensor array is really foggy too and I think that's the next item on the list to wipe off and spray with a clear red.
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The alcohol will strip the black off as well. I was just very careful removing only the yellow, but I had to do some touch ups still. I haven't done the front piece yet, but I'm just going to use alcohol, cotton swabs, and twisted up paper towel pieces to get it off and then do any necessary touch ups. The black is on the outside. The whole outside is painted with that foggy yellow actually, and then they painted the dark grey/black frame over top. You can either soak it in alcohol and wipe the whole thing clean and repaint the frame or painstakingly remove the yellow. Using a fingernail or dulled down pencil tip with a small piece of alcohol soaked paper towel over the edge can help to get the yellow off the edge close to the frame.
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Yeah, you just lift it and pull and wiggle it right out. That sounded a little dirty...
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I just did a quick spray of the canopy. 5 parts clear yellow, 1 part clear orange, and some tamiya thinner. It's still wet, but here's how the tinting looks. It's pretty close to the original color minus the frosted metallic look.
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It's just paint on the outside. You can get it off with some cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol. The plastic was real hazy afterwards, but a quick dip in future and some drying time and it was bright and shiny again. I plan on mixing some transparent yellow with a dash of transparent orange for the tinting.
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So I read that acetone works on abs plastic and polystyrene, melting and bonding it. I wanted to fix the broken flaps from the 31J's weapon container and had zero luck and 5 attempts trying to glue them together with super glue. There's just almost no adhesion. So I bought some acetone (not nail polish remover) and brushed some on to the broken halves. Put them together and waited. Came back and checked and the result was the same as if I had just brushed them with tap water. Nothing at all. Am I mistaken about the acetone working as a solvent on ABS and styrene or that these are made of ABS? The flaps feel like cheap styrene to be honest.
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At an extra 10,000 yen, the only premium finish going on here is the polish on your wallet from the friction of all the money flying out of it. -
I was confused upon seeing this as there was no mention of the 31F before. Had to refresh to see the revised post. Haha.
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Not bad. 18,000 yen. Good luck to anyone that needs it.
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Glad he clarified what people would be getting with the premium version. Still a hard sell though for the price.
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I can confirm that you should hear/feel a click when you pull it out. It didn't require quite as much effort on my copies though. Trying to detach the gunpod from the container on the other hand...
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Yeah, the guide doesn't follow the line art. The third image shows the ankles extended and visible. The guide also shows the crotch piece being angled out but the line art shows it flat. In the end, it's up to people how they want to transform it. I tend to go by the line art.
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That would be awesome. I'll let you know when I'll be needing some. I still need to order and get the display cabinet first and see how things are going to be arranged to see how many would be needed.
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I only recently found those detolf mounts on your site. That's really clever. I was thinking of getting a larger display case that's 48" wide which makes my fishing line trick no longer viable. I think this might solve the problem when I finally do get a new display. How snug does the mount fit on the detolfs? Could it fit over glass that's 1/4" thick or is that too thick for these mounts?
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I haven't really kept up over the past year or so since most of the Macross pre-order releases last year were hi-metal stuff or things I wasn't interested in. Prior to that in 2015, their prices were about on par with other places within a few % for Arcadia stuff. I didn't even know they got rid of the pay later option for certain pre-orders until I tried to get the VF-31J super parts and got to the payment part and thought I skipped a step.
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I really like enemy or antagonist mecha. They tend to feature very different transformation implementations which makes them interesting to me.
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Wow, that's actually a decent bit more than the NY pre-order.
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Since those are painful on the eyes, can that technically be considered as itasha?
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Do you really? The CG images of the battroid mode show the ankles extended and visible. Model kit version:
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Well, the fact that they reused the same photos for both products makes it hard to determine what markings will make it to the production premium release as those wouldn't necessarily be indicative of the final product. Arcadia/Yamato have always showed more markings on the prototype pics of the VF-1's so there's not much to say about the normal release. Whatever was printed on the previous releases of the VF-1 is what you should expect to get in the non-premium version.
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You can just stop after Ep 13...
