MacrossJunkie
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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie
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I just did a quick spray of the canopy. 5 parts clear yellow, 1 part clear orange, and some tamiya thinner. It's still wet, but here's how the tinting looks. It's pretty close to the original color minus the frosted metallic look.
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It's just paint on the outside. You can get it off with some cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol. The plastic was real hazy afterwards, but a quick dip in future and some drying time and it was bright and shiny again. I plan on mixing some transparent yellow with a dash of transparent orange for the tinting.
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So I read that acetone works on abs plastic and polystyrene, melting and bonding it. I wanted to fix the broken flaps from the 31J's weapon container and had zero luck and 5 attempts trying to glue them together with super glue. There's just almost no adhesion. So I bought some acetone (not nail polish remover) and brushed some on to the broken halves. Put them together and waited. Came back and checked and the result was the same as if I had just brushed them with tap water. Nothing at all. Am I mistaken about the acetone working as a solvent on ABS and styrene or that these are made of ABS? The flaps feel like cheap styrene to be honest.
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At an extra 10,000 yen, the only premium finish going on here is the polish on your wallet from the friction of all the money flying out of it. -
I was confused upon seeing this as there was no mention of the 31F before. Had to refresh to see the revised post. Haha.
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Not bad. 18,000 yen. Good luck to anyone that needs it.
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Glad he clarified what people would be getting with the premium version. Still a hard sell though for the price.
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I can confirm that you should hear/feel a click when you pull it out. It didn't require quite as much effort on my copies though. Trying to detach the gunpod from the container on the other hand...
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Yeah, the guide doesn't follow the line art. The third image shows the ankles extended and visible. The guide also shows the crotch piece being angled out but the line art shows it flat. In the end, it's up to people how they want to transform it. I tend to go by the line art.
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That would be awesome. I'll let you know when I'll be needing some. I still need to order and get the display cabinet first and see how things are going to be arranged to see how many would be needed.
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I only recently found those detolf mounts on your site. That's really clever. I was thinking of getting a larger display case that's 48" wide which makes my fishing line trick no longer viable. I think this might solve the problem when I finally do get a new display. How snug does the mount fit on the detolfs? Could it fit over glass that's 1/4" thick or is that too thick for these mounts?
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I haven't really kept up over the past year or so since most of the Macross pre-order releases last year were hi-metal stuff or things I wasn't interested in. Prior to that in 2015, their prices were about on par with other places within a few % for Arcadia stuff. I didn't even know they got rid of the pay later option for certain pre-orders until I tried to get the VF-31J super parts and got to the payment part and thought I skipped a step.
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I really like enemy or antagonist mecha. They tend to feature very different transformation implementations which makes them interesting to me.
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Wow, that's actually a decent bit more than the NY pre-order.
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Since those are painful on the eyes, can that technically be considered as itasha?
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Do you really? The CG images of the battroid mode show the ankles extended and visible. Model kit version:
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Well, the fact that they reused the same photos for both products makes it hard to determine what markings will make it to the production premium release as those wouldn't necessarily be indicative of the final product. Arcadia/Yamato have always showed more markings on the prototype pics of the VF-1's so there's not much to say about the normal release. Whatever was printed on the previous releases of the VF-1 is what you should expect to get in the non-premium version.
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You can just stop after Ep 13...
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Judging by the photos, it feels like the FAST packs are missing markings on the Premium. Paying an extra $50-something hardly seems worth it. Also, I couldn't bring myself to pay $246 for a VF-1... It would be great if they could give us an in between choice of an optional set of waterslide decals.
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I didn't like the YF-29's super parts when they first came out, so I didn't buy them. They grew on me later and I regretted not getting it when I had the chance. I had to pay more to get them later on. Now, if I'm not sure, then I get it. You can always sell it later, if it's not wanted.
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There are variances during production, I think. For example, of my two Ozma 25S's, the skull paintjob on one flakes off at the slightest touch along some of the corners, but the other one is just fine and doesn't do that. For whatever reason during production, the paint doesn't seem to adhere the same on all toys. So I personally wouldn't discount people's experiences.
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I wouldn't mind if Bandai took a stab at doing Hayate's dad's VF-22 with it having Frontier/Delta aesthetics like they did with the VF-19 Advance.
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I thought I read somewhere that it was pre-thinned, but in any case, it can be thinned with distilled water or Vallejo's acrylic thinner, which is a whitish looking fluid. I mix mine with Future most of the time because of its smooth leveling properties and UV resistance and have had good results using the Tamiya acrylic thinner when mixing with Future. I rinse out and spray with tap water first then I use the Iwata airbrush cleaner or just rubbing alcohol and some airbrush cleaning brushes to clean out when I'm done. People say not to use rubbing alcohol to clean it because they've had problems with the matte varnish gumming up, but since I am sometimes contrarian, I tried using rubbing alcohol to clean it out of two different Badger airbrushes and have no issues whatsoever using it as a solvent on the matte varnish. Maybe because I rinse out the cup and spray with water first before I do any cleaning? So I dunno, based on personal experience it works for me and have no gumming or left over residue within the inner mechanics of my airbrushes, but YMMV with rubbing alcohol (just do not use as a thinner, but that is pretty much common sense). I'll be trying out the polyurethane version sometime on some test pieces to see how it reacts to the paints I use.
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The wear seems comparable based on multiple transformations. Most of the time though, even for flat finishes, I do mix with some Future. Another benefit over the Tamiya flat base is that I have been able to spray multiple coats without each subsequent coat looking whiter and whiter whereas with the Tamiya, you're limited with how many times you can spray and you had to spray the whole area because spot sprayed areas were visibly different. What issues have you had with the non-polyurethane version? I've used it on my last 7 or so valks with no problem and with great looking results. This was entirely airbrushed except for a little hand brushing on the canopy frames. Clean up was very easy and hassle free in my airbrushes as well. I did see the polyurethane version a few days ago and ordered a bottle to try out. I wasn't sure how safe it was to spray over acrylics.
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Probably a glitch or something. If it was a client side cache issue, I would think their server back end would not let that happen.
