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Anasazi37

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Everything posted by Anasazi37

  1. Nick and I are still working out the details on the number of sheets, etc. I actually have a few PMs from him that I need to go through and respond to before I can say anything more about what these sheets are going to look like. I've done the three piece chestplate decals before on 1/55's and they look okay. It's really the only way to deal with a complex and curving surface like that....
  2. The paper I used is ultra thin polyvinyl film (PVF). Adheres to surfaces like a mofo, especially after exposure to heat. Don't push it, though. The topcoat and inks I use aren't indestructible....
  3. Chest stripe stickers are notoriously hard to do. I made them for my first 1/55 sets then quickly abandoned them on later sets because they don't work very well.... I'll talk to Nick and see what we can do....
  4. Note: This is an actual test set I printed out today. I still have some bugs to work out, but they look great.
  5. The going rate is $300 for labor and materials (paint and decals). You have to supply the valk. When you factor in how much time is involved and how expensive the decals are to produce, us customizers are working for peanuts.... Devin: Will the rate be the same for the "MinMay MoonGuard" Custom? Yep. It's my standard rate for a 1/48 Strike custom.
  6. Nope, it's not a stripped screw hole. I could have screwed the pieces together so tight that you couldn't see the seam line on that side, but it would have ruined the paint job on the inside of those pieces where the foot thruster pivots. That particular piece was a little larger on the right side than the left (Yamato QC strikes again), so I had to leave a little room for it to move.
  7. No, but I can, if you like. There isn't much to see below the chest on those pilots, though. I painted the boot stripes purple, but that's about it....
  8. Nope, no masking necessary. Just lots of patience and a fine-tipped brush. If I stray outside the lines a little I go back later with the blunt edge of an Xacto knife and gently scrape off the excess paint. That's good to know. That is what I do, though I am no master modeller like you, Anasazi37. Some of the best techniques are the simplest, most common-sense ones. I often try more elaborate methods on customs but often come back to the basics because I know that they work.
  9. The going rate is $300 for labor and materials (paint and decals). You have to supply the valk. When you factor in how much time is involved and how expensive the decals are to produce, us customizers are working for peanuts....
  10. Nope, no masking necessary. Just lots of patience and a fine-tipped brush. If I stray outside the lines a little I go back later with the blunt edge of an Xacto knife and gently scrape off the excess paint.
  11. The background is a $2 piece of blue material from a fabric store bargain bin, believe it or not. I've gotten so much use out of that thing....
  12. Nope. Just diffuse morning or afternoon light. Since Colorado gets about 300 days of sunshine a year I can get away with it. Anywhere else, I'd have to use an artificial light source.
  13. This custom was commissioned by Vermillion One, who has to be the most patient person I know. He's been waiting about six months for this.... Battroid
  14. I'm glad that you found the application guide useful. Enjoy the decals.
  15. I'm willing to donate the time and materials necessary to create Dragon decals for everyone who ordered the kit. No charge. All you guys would need to pay for is shipping. We can work out those details later. Goodness knows when I'll be able to create them (maybe a month or two....), but it's the least I can do considering what you all have gone through. I was lucky enough to get my Catseye and Fanracer in the first shipment and have watched this nightmare unfold ever since....
  16. I am still selling them and the versions online aren't good enough to print. The site is online--I just checked. What made you believe that I had stopped? I offer them for sale at least 4-6 times per year. I also sell them when people directly PM me about the sets. In fact, I am working on several right now for various people. TMP Anime also sells the 1/48 sets (and they're in stock right now).
  17. Here's the link to my Club-M 1/48 sets: http://www.netwiz.net/~dwhite/decals/decal_samples.html
  18. Some of those changes won't be easy to make because of how the set is designed, but they are possible. I have the Valk Minmay already sized for 1/48 Yamatos, so that's not a problem.
  19. I have a white version of the Minmay Guard set in 1/48 and it includes the optional decals to extend the theme onto an armor set. The Minmay and sponsor logos are still purple and blue, but everything else is white. There's no need to ask my permission. It's not like I own a copyright on the designs. They first showed up in Model Graphix about two years ago and all I did was recreate them for 1/72, 1/60, 1/55, and 1/48 valks. Making them on your own would be a big headache, though.... Here's the set (shown in black for ease of visibility):
  20. Welcome to Macrossworld (and to collecting the toys)! And thanks for the interest in my set MG set. The Minmay Guard set was designed specifically for a completely white 1S (i.e., stripped, primed, and repainted for customizing). The decals wouldn't work with either the Max or Miriya 1J. I made these particular designs semi-translucent so they'd blend into the white paint job REALLY well. As a result, if you try to put them on a darker surface the bluish purple wouldn't show up correctly (perhaps not at all). I can make an opaque set for you, but I am not sure how it would look against the paint schemes on the 1Js. My aesthetic gut instinct says it's not the best idea, although definitely a creative one. If you're looking to trick out your 1/48s with some custom decals, drop me a PM with what you have in mind and I'll what I can do to help.
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