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Anasazi37

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    2021
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Everything posted by Anasazi37

  1. Tamim isn't set up to do production--he's a distributor. Plus, he and I parted ways several months ago. He stopped replying to my emails about replenishing his supply of sold out sets. I was getting a lot of emails from frustrated TMP customers about the lack of availability of certain sets, when I would send TMP more, etc. I ended up having to fill the orders myself, which is exactly what I didn't want to do and why I had a distributor in the first place. I'm not sure what happened on his end since I never received responses (maybe he's just really busy), but I decided to stop doing business with him due to the lack of communication. I had started talks with someone else to host my decals on their site, but then the ALPS news hit and I decided to shut down the business.
  2. Most definitely. Hard drive space is cheap these days. Plus, considering how much time went into creating each set, there's no way I'd toss out the files.
  3. Wow, quite the turnout in this thread. I'll check in and offer my *cough* sage advice as often as possible. FYI, I won't ignore PMs about decal making, it's just easier for me to answer a question once to a broad audience than to answer it multiple times to individual MW members. - That dry transfer system could work, but I worry about three things. First, the spray adhesive. I don't know how it will interact with paints and clearcoats. That goes for both enamel and acrylic. Second, I would worry about how small a decal you can make. Sure, you could print something really small, but you might have to spray a large part of your toy/custom/model in order to apply it. Could do more harm than good. Third, making opaque color decals. You might have to print the white first, then attempt to print color on top of it. You'll run into registration issues (how well the color markings match up to the white underneath). - Inkjet printing. Avoid it if you can. Sure, the designs *look* fantastic, but they are also not waterproof. Sure, you could spray them with Krylon Crystal Clear, but I never managed to get it to work well for me. I won't even tell you how much money I spent on supplies before I learned that lesson. Krylon goes on thick and will crack if you don't use the decals within a few days. There are brush-on coating alternatives like Microscale's Liquid Decal Film, but your inkjet decals have to be COMPLETELY dry before you use it. Otherwise, you'll end up spreading the ink all over the decal paper because the coating solution is alcohol-based. I lived in a very dry place and let the designs dry for days, and I *still* had problems with the ink running. - Laserjet printing. Much better than it used to be, but the color designs are still transparent. Black is opaque, which is at least something. One Okidata laser printer can use an opaque white cartidge in place of the black, but the name escapes me. Multiple passes are not possible, so you're still stuck with transparent colors and solid white decals. You *could* make separate white "backing" versions of the color decals, apply those, then apply the transparent color ones on top of them, but that seems like a ton of work for a mediocre result at best (plus the decals would be thick at that point). - Programs I use. I did the vast majority of my sets in Illustrator and I keep the masters in .AI format. Some sets were done in Photoshop because I needed to use scanned images but also needed the ability to work with multiple layers. For the brave who want to venture into the mechanics of *how* to design decals, please feel free to ask questions. I'll do what I can, but some topics are pretty complex. - Decal Paper. I've tried a bunch of different decal paper suppliers. For laser, I'd use Tango Papa Decals. Avoid Bel Decal like the plague. I don't care how cheap they are or how professional their site looks. You get what you pay for. Sometimes whole shipments I received were useless and their customer service is nonexistent. NEVER EVER buy from them. For inkjet, try Texas Craft (Hemmi Papilio Supplies). -Alternatives. Sometimes Microscale can squeeze in a one-off set of decals when they are printing silkscreened sets in larger numbers. You can always try contacting them to see what's possible. I'll respond to further questions as I have time. I hope this is useful info.
  4. LOL.... I hadn't thought of Amiga in years. Thanks, I needed that chuckle--especially today.
  5. Hi everyone, Sorry for not checking in sooner. I made the mistake of attempting to convert my computer to a dual-boot XP/Fedora Core 6 setup this weekend. Not fun. Just managed to get internet access up and running again.... I am blown away (and touched) by all of your kind words. I wish I could keep producing sets--it's just no longer practical to do so. I will admit that ALPS deciding to discontinue support was the last nail in the coffin. As far as I know, the decision only affects the United States and models MD-1000, MD-1300, and MD-5000. Anyone outside of the US with an MD-5500 *might* still be able to get repairs and inks through international distributors, but I don't know. I can't imagine that ALPS will continue that support for much longer, either. It really is an end of an era. ALPS printing is a unique process and while silkscreen printing is an option, it's insanely expensive for small runs (which is what Macross-related sets usually are). I know that there are laser printers that can print using multiple passes, but so far there is no opaque white ink/toner available for them. If that situation changes (maybe in a few years, who knows) I'll likely start making sets again. For now, though, the doors are closed. I've received a bunch of PM's from folks that address some big issues, so I thought I'd respond here for the sake of efficiency: - "No more orders" means just that: no more orders. I need to start shifting my priorities to the wife and PhD, so I can't take on any more orders. The last thing I want to do is to give my wife the impression that I haven't really stopped the business. The ALPS printer is REALLY loud and the coating solution smells REALLY bad, so I can't do any "stealth printing" either. I like my life and I'd like to continue living it. Those of you who are married will know exactly what I mean when I say that. I deeply appreciate the fact that many of you value my work to the point that you want to purchase any extra sets I might have lying around, but unfortunately I don't keep stock on hand. All sets are printed when they are ordered, so I would have to print new ones--something I do not have time for. - I will not be selling my masters. A ton of work went into creating each of the 70+ sets in my catalog and almost all of them were done from scratch in Illustrator (not from cleaned up scans of original Hasegawa or Yamato sets). I honestly don't think I could put a reasonable price tag on them. - I would be happy to work with any of you here who are looking to try making your own stickers and decals. I've tried pretty much every method imaginable and know the benefits/detriments of each one. To that end, I might throw together a decal making "how to"--although there are many such guides available online. All I ask is that you post your questions in a thread rather than a PM so that I can respond in way allows others to benefit from the information as well.
  6. Hi everyone, This is one of the hardest decisions I have ever had to make, but it is the right one. Effectively immediately, I am no longer accepting orders for decal or sticker sets. This applies to both stock and custom commissioned orders. If you have already placed an order, I will honor it. If you haven't paid already, please do so within the next week. The reasons for having to shut down the business are as follows: - I recently got married and the business is cutting heavily into time I should be spending with my wife (nights and weekends). - I really need to finish my PhD, which requires time I haven't been able to give it. I can split my time between my wife and the PhD, but not those two plus the business. It's too much. - ALPS is discontinuing all support for their printers starting 04/01/07. This includes repairs and inks. Prices for inks are already going up, stock is going down, and the waiting list for printer repairs is getting longer. In all of the years I've been makings sets, I've only made a few for myself because I've been so busy filling orders. Because of how often my printer breaks, I'd like to take what time there is left and work on taking care of the long list of sets I need for my own projects before the printer breaks again. I also have not found a good alternative printing method, despite a great deal of searching. There's a lot more (work is killing me these days), but those are the big reasons. I want to thank all of you for supporting my efforts. It always makes me smile to see my decals and stickers on your toys and models. I'm not leaving the forums, so you'll definitely see me around. I'm happy to continue to offer advice on graphic design, decal printing, and customizing for those who are interested. -Devin
  7. Well, I have had this valk on my workbench (including conversion kit) since before Christmas. Maybe even Thanksgiving. I think Vermillion One got the kit directly from Captain America....
  8. I know, but when I asked my fiancee what she wanted as a wedding gift, she said "that custom out of our garage." No joke.
  9. Yeah, I had to go about three feet to my ALPS printer, then another 15 to my garage workshop.
  10. I had forgotten how much I liked the 1D until I started working on this custom for you. It makes me want to build one for myself, but it would be about #40 on the list of kits and customs I have lined up....
  11. It was a really hard decision to make. I like making customs, but they take up so much time. Between Macross projects, work, finishing my PhD, and getting married (next Saturday!), something had to give.... I think I've heard that line somewhere before. 414670[/snapback]
  12. I won't even mention how long this custom has been sitting on my workbench, but it's finally done. The MW member who commissioned it holds the official title of "world's most patient person" in my book. Overall, I was really impressed with the quality of the conversion kit. It had a few quirks, as is always the case with custom cast parts, but the finished valk looks great. I gave many of the markings a distressed or worn look to give the appearance that this trainer is heavily used but well-maintained. I spent a lot of time going back and forth about what exact shades of brown and orange to use, eventually settling on a custom mix for both. I chose to not include the black stripes on the heatshield and legs because they have always looked a little out of place to me and without them, the color scheme seems to flow a lot better. This custom started life as a CF. This is my last commissioned custom. Life is just too busy these days for me to accept any more projects. Decal and sticker production takes up far less time and mental energy, so I will continue to do that for as long as possible. I hope you enjoy the pics.
  13. Mine just arrived today. All I can say is HOLY $%&@!!!! This is an amazing kit. I have been trying to brace myself for the size and high quality of it, based on the pictures in this thread, but nothing quite prepares you for the first time you open the large box and pull out one of the main body pieces. I'm not sure when I'll have time to build it (or the space to properly display it), but when I do, it's going in a place of honor.
  14. Sorry for the delays, guys. I'll be getting back to everyone today.
  15. They can be printed as either stickers or decals.
  16. Sample pics of the new VF-0S, Stealth Valk, Stealth FAST Pack sets can be found below. They can be printed as either decals or stickers. I went with a Low Vis scheme for the Stealth, seeing as white markings stand out a lot against the dark colors of the valk. The grey on these sets, unlike the standard Low Vis sets I make, is OPAQUE. This means that the grey will show up on the dark colors. Quite nicely, actually. The small white numbers on the FAST Pack sheet are for custom numbering on the booster skulls. The VF-0S set is pretty much a repro of the Yamato sheet, but I had to do a lot of cleanup on their designs. Probably their worst sticker sheet to date. Prices are the usual: $10 each. Click on the following link for ordering instructions and a list of everything I sell. I'm at 75 different sets now, I think: Link to thread in For Sale forum
  17. Health should always come first. I can wait a while if you want to hold off on shipping mine until you feel better.
  18. Well, the original sheet is currently scaled for 1/72 Hasegawa models. Assuming that Yamato did their homework when it came to scaling their toys, the fit should be pretty good. The sheet consists mainly of specialty markings, though, so it's not a good replacement for the stickers that come with the toy. Here's a picture of the sheet:
  19. The only Macross Plus set I have on hand right now is the Hasegawa option decal sheet, which I have sized to fit a wide range of valk scales. I've thought about making repros of the Macross Plus Yamato sticker sheets, but I would need good scans of the originals to work from (I don't have any of the valks).
  20. Well, my hands are pretty much tied on this one, unfortunately. I know that it's not ideal, and I feel really bad when I picture everyone squinting at the GBP sheet trying to figure out where to cut, but the alternative (no decals) is far worse. The only suppliers of blue-backed decal paper compatible with an ALPS printer here in the US are unreliable, way too slow, way too expensive, or have horrible quality control. Believe me, I've tried them all and spent a lot of my own money and time doing it. The best supplier I have found only makes white-backed decal paper. I have asked him to make blue-backed decal paper, but it would be a big change in his production process so he's not really interested. I feel fortunate that I even found this guy, so I try not to push my luck. At one point, I almost gave up decal production because of the suppliers I had to deal with....
  21. Lookin' good, Mike! I can't wait to get my hands on one of these kits, although I have no idea where I am going to display the behemoth when it's done. That wing looks like it belongs to a YF-19, but I could be way off....
  22. Nice work, Brian! Of all the sets I make, the MG1 Strike is probably the most difficult to work with. How well the custom has turned out is a testament to your skill. Are you going to customize the armor and RMS-1 nukes to match? It would be a shame to have that part of the decal set go to waste....
  23. Standard sets for valks and FAST packs are $10 each. Only the specialty sets are more expensive--and that's because they take up A LOT of decal paper, ink, and coating solution. I keep the prices as low as possible so that you don't have to choose between applying crappy stickers and buying a new valk.
  24. Lookin' good, Brian! Can't wait to see the Minmay Guards!
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