Godzilla Posted April 23, 2004 Share Posted April 23, 2004 Anybody got any idea how to removed the paint off the 1/48s with out melting the hell outta them? I like to remove the paint on the VF-1A hikaru so I can paint it Green. I assume the paint is on the back of it so it is pretty much removed the paint and keep the Skull & crossbones emblem. Am I right? As for the rest of the plane, what works best to remove the paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichterX Posted April 23, 2004 Share Posted April 23, 2004 Also what is a good way to remove the Paint of a a 1/60 and what kind of paint can be used on the die-cast parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 One way to do it is to mask off the area around the paint that you want off. Then use a high grid sand paper to sand it away. ~160-200 grid should do. If not just mask the area then prime it over then paint. (both should work for metal too, but you need a metal prime for the metal part) L, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neova Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 Ok from my research: Lemon Scented Easy Off Spray : Doesn't work... I soaked the ABS parts for up to 36 hours and nothing. I didn't attempt to use abrasives such as sand paper though. Castrol Super Clean: Sorta works. Soaked for 24 hours, use my fingers to "scratch" to edges and it starts to come off. Heatshield didn't work Engine degreaser from aerosol spray can that is clear - used to clean engines - works REALLY well.. Also MELTS and the softens the plastic like nobodies business. DO NOT USE or mask off area then soak and keep your eye on it. You can see the chemical reaction like boiling water in a clear glass container. I used a thick clean ashtray and saw the swirling. Woah... Note that I did not attempt any of this on die-cast metal parts yet so keep the research coming. Guppy said sugar soap (can't find any here in HK) with pinesol works. Personally, I would paint over the heatshield and get a new skull decal. The clear cockpit with paint underneath does not color match properly due to light distortion of the canopy. Looks cheesy on a well painted custom but good for a "factory" look. Post your findings here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 Ok, here is what I do. Keep in mind that I prime the entire valk when doing a custom, so I am not really concerned with getting all of the paint off. I just need to remove enough to not show the raised areas through the primer and paint, such as the wing stripes. However this technique works rather well. I first soak the parts in denatured alcohol for 10-15 minutes. Then I scrub them with very fine steel wool, the paint should come off fairly easy. For some reason some areas and colors are more stubburn than others. I would be not recommend using 200 grit sand paper, this will leave you with some pretty serious scratches to fill. The only other thing I recommend you stay away from is Polly Scale paint remover. I have heard this mentioned before and tried it. It works great for removing the paint, but makes the plastic very brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geecie30 Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 Try fingernail polish remover using a strong rubbing action with your q-tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 One chemical is needed.... PineSol. That works great for taking off any paint. Just soak for about 2-5 hours, then take a toothbrush and the paint comes right off. I use this method in everything and I've never had problems with brittle plastic, warped plastic, rust, or any other problems. Just make sure you do a thorough wash of the parts afterward, as Pinesol does leave a light film on top. Non moisturized soap and warm water will do just fine for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXO Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 One chemical is needed.... PineSol. That works great for taking off any paint. Just soak for about 2-5 hours, then take a toothbrush and the paint comes right off. I use this method in everything and I've never had problems with brittle plastic, warped plastic, rust, or any other problems. Just make sure you do a thorough wash of the parts afterward, as Pinesol does leave a light film on top. Non moisturized soap and warm water will do just fine for that. I tried Pine Sol on the 1/48. It didn't remove it as well as yours. Is this regular Pinesol? I ended up using sandpaper also.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Just in my opinion, if you want to strip paint don't use chemical. unless you are fimilar with the specific chemical, because if you don't know what you are using or experience using it, you might end up ruinning the piece and have to sand it afterwards to retore the damage. It's true, it's better to just strip the paint away and then paint on it, but it's a lot of risk you will have to take for the chemical which might be eating away the top coat of the plastic or yet melting it (soften it). The safest way to do it (if it's your 1st time doing it) is to use a very high grid sand paper (go up to 400 if you are really not sure) sand the specific area away. Unless you want to strip all the paint off a piece, then I would recommend using chemical. And the chemical of choice I pick is cleaning solution 409, it's the mildest out there that I can find. You put your piece in the solution (probably over night and use a USED tooth brush gently brush off if there's paint left. Good luck with your mod. L, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted April 27, 2004 Share Posted April 27, 2004 Regular Pinesol. I tried using the lemon stuff and it's composition didn't work for sh*t!! There have been times I forgot to take the parts out of Pinesol, and even after a day or so of sitting, they were fine. Just use whatever you feel safe with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurin Posted April 28, 2004 Share Posted April 28, 2004 Here's a thread that eventually recommends brake fluid! (I'd be careful with this one!) Somone here recommends combining pine-sol and sugar soap! Here's a recommendation for using Easy-Off Oven Cleaner. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted April 28, 2004 Share Posted April 28, 2004 Anybody got any idea how to removed the paint off the 1/48s with out melting the hell outta them? I like to remove the paint on the VF-1A hikaru so I can paint it Green. I assume the paint is on the back of it so it is pretty much removed the paint and keep the Skull & crossbones emblem. Am I right? As for the rest of the plane, what works best to remove the paint? hey man, just get some brasso its a brass/metal polish. you can fin it in any hardware store for like 3 bucks. it removes the paint off my lego minifigs. if anyones got some old ass minifigs they'll know what i'm talking about...that paint doesn't come off. the brasso removes it real nice without damaging the plastic what so ever....atleast it works for my lego pieces and other plastisc i've used on it. get a old t-shirt, put a quarter sized amount of on it(add more as needed), and rub the painted piece back and forth on the rag. be sure rub the piece back and forth on the rag, and not the other way around or you'll be sitting there a long time. you have to use a little elbow grease but it should take about 15 seconds of rubbing to get a majority of the paint off. i speak no lies, this stuff is a miracle worker and did i mention it also removes chrome paint without damaging the plastic too! brasso da BOMB. get your bottle today! just Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichterX Posted April 28, 2004 Share Posted April 28, 2004 So I guess it is pretty much just trial and error and hope the plastic doesn't melt? What about spit, those spiting on it works? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted April 28, 2004 Share Posted April 28, 2004 (edited)  So I guess it is pretty much just trial and error and hope the plastic doesn't melt?What about spit, those spiting on it works? there no trial an error here. i use this stuff whenever i'm trying to remove paint from anything. i doesn't damage plastic nor does it make the plastic brittle over time. carb cleaner is way strong and will melt the plastic. brake fluid is alright but you gotta let it soak and eventually seeps into the plastic making it brittle. pine-sol, i have no idea? but the brasso, is specifically made for polishing, no scratching, no damage to surfaces...nadda. i've heard of a polish that scratches or damages the surface being polished...they'd all be out of business. either way i swear by it so do whatcha gotta do. Edited April 28, 2004 by haterist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted April 29, 2004 Author Share Posted April 29, 2004  So I guess it is pretty much just trial and error and hope the plastic doesn't melt?What about spit, those spiting on it works? there no trial an error here. i use this stuff whenever i'm trying to remove paint from anything. i doesn't damage plastic nor does it make the plastic brittle over time. carb cleaner is way strong and will melt the plastic. brake fluid is alright but you gotta let it soak and eventually seeps into the plastic making it brittle. pine-sol, i have no idea? but the brasso, is specifically made for polishing, no scratching, no damage to surfaces...nadda. i've heard of a polish that scratches or damages the surface being polished...they'd all be out of business. either way i swear by it so do whatcha gotta do. so have you tried it on the 1/48? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted April 29, 2004 Share Posted April 29, 2004 so have you tried it on the 1/48? unfortunately i don't have "mister 32 plus valks" for customizing at the moment. LOL so no i have not. i've used on in several different things all with the same result.... it works! i'll gladly try it on one of my valks for you, but you'll have to replace the piece when it works....dude its $3, take chance. if it doesn't work, you can bust my balls here on MW, i'm not going anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted April 30, 2004 Author Share Posted April 30, 2004 (edited) so have you tried it on the 1/48? unfortunately i don't have "mister 32 plus valks" for customizing at the moment. LOL so no i have not. i've used on in several different things all with the same result.... it works! i'll gladly try it on one of my valks for you, but you'll have to replace the piece when it works....dude its $3, take chance. if it doesn't work, you can bust my balls here on MW, i'm not going anywhere. I'll try it when I get it. If my valk melts, I will flame you. Edited April 30, 2004 by Godzilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXO Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 http://www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html Unfortunately, Castrol Super Clean Degreaser doesn't work taht well with factory paint. I wish I could get some of that sugar soap that Guppy talked about. I'm gonna try out that Brasso stuff Haterist. I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neova Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 Exo, GREAT LINK and yes, Castrol Super Clean doesn't work well on factory paint for the 1/48s. Howerver, 72 hours and counting in a tub soak which I will check on tomorrow. Crosses my fingers. I might try Kurt's idea of Isopropanol though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 5, 2004 Author Share Posted May 5, 2004 I bought Brasso so I will try it out soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toonz Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 I bought Brasso so I will try it out soon. how is it coming along? does it work? i want to know too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 I bought Brasso so I will try it out soon. how is it coming along? does it work? i want to know too.... i'm waiting to hear the verdict myself. its either flaming or praise...lets hope its praise. BTW toonz, katoots? an aquintance of mine suggested i go there...small world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 6, 2004 Author Share Posted May 6, 2004 I havent done it yet. It will be tonight or tomorrow. I had softball on Cinco de Mayo night. Didnt get home till 11:45PM. Overslept this morning since I couldnt get up at 4:30AM to workout. (feeling sore and tired). I need to mow the lawn and then I will try this Brasso stuff on making my VF-1S head and Kakizaki. Work is getting busy and I have to work on Saturday. BTW, I saw this ELO (Easy Lift Off) paint stripper at Hobbytown. The guy in the store swears by it. Anybody try it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toonz Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 I bought Brasso so I will try it out soon. yup it's a really nice to hang around there and meeting the people for group outings it's a huge family Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toonz Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 I havent done it yet. It will be tonight or tomorrow. I had softball on Cinco de Mayo night. Didnt get home till 11:45PM. Overslept this morning since I couldnt get up at 4:30AM to workout. (feeling sore and tired). I need to mow the lawn and then I will try this Brasso stuff on making my VF-1S head and Kakizaki. Work is getting busy and I have to work on Saturday. BTW, I saw this ELO (Easy Lift Off) paint stripper at Hobbytown. The guy in the store swears by it. Anybody try it? looking forward to your results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 9, 2004 Author Share Posted May 9, 2004 ok, I am soaking the heatshield for my Kakizaki custom. I will let you know what happens in the next couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted May 9, 2004 Share Posted May 9, 2004 ok, I am soaking the heatshield for my Kakizaki custom. I will let you know what happens in the next couple of days. Godzilla, you don't have to soak it at all. just put a quarter sized amount on a old cloth or rag and rub the paint piece on the cloth with a little elbow grease and it comes off in 15-20 seconds. either way i'll PM you too in case you don't see this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 9, 2004 Author Share Posted May 9, 2004 ok, I am soaking the heatshield for my Kakizaki custom. I will let you know what happens in the next couple of days. Godzilla, you don't have to soak it at all. just put a quarter sized amount on a old cloth or rag and rub the paint piece on the cloth with a little elbow grease and it comes off in 15-20 seconds. either way i'll PM you too in case you don't see this. Ok, it's been soaking over night... This morning I looked at it and rubbed a bit with a napkin. Some red did come off but takes a little bit. It really doesn't come off cleanly, yet. I will try when I go home tonight. I just finished 4 softball games and now at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 10, 2004 Author Share Posted May 10, 2004 Ok, Here are the results. Haterist is right. Problem is that I have been rubbing for about 30min to 1 hour. not bad. Here is a pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 30 min? and hour? if you're doing it correctly, it shouldn't take more than 15-20 seconds. be sure to rub the painted piece on the cloth DO NOT rub the cloth on the painted piece or you'll be sitting there forever! also a napkin won't cut it....i've tried that and it just tears into pieces. take a old cotton t-shirt and use that. you can fit it into the heatshield and slide it back and forth with enough pressure to remove the paint very quickly. either way, whatever works for you i guess but it really should take that long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 10, 2004 Author Share Posted May 10, 2004 30 min? and hour? if you're doing it correctly, it shouldn't take more than 15-20 seconds. be sure to rub the painted piece on the cloth DO NOT rub the cloth on the painted piece or you'll be sitting there forever! also a napkin won't cut it....i've tried that and it just tears into pieces. take a old cotton t-shirt and use that. you can fit it into the heatshield and slide it back and forth with enough pressure to remove the paint very quickly. either way, whatever works for you i guess but it really should take that long. Actually is it gotten better as time progressed. I was rubbing the cloth on the shield. Yes I switched to cloth. I wanted to try it out with a napkin. Prolly total time was 1 hour- 1/2 hour. I got 90% of the paint off but I need to work on the rest later tonight. 15-20sec. Paint does come off immediately but I think the paint is pretty thick. Conclusion: Brasso does indeed work. Thought there is fog on the clear plastic like the heat shield on these Valks, it does the job. I will see if I can get the rest off. It is at the edges of the shield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neova Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 (edited) Use a plastic polish to remove the fog. I gotta check on my CSC soak. Its been like 6 or 7 days and I forgot about it! Haterists, thanks for the phat tip bro! I need someone to send me a can of that stuff. Brasso! Haterists approved! Which is saying a LOT! Edited May 11, 2004 by Neova Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 11, 2004 Author Share Posted May 11, 2004 (edited) look at the clear heat shield from the vf-1s hikaru. Thanks for the tip Haterist. 99.9% of the paint is gone. There is a tiny bit of red left... little streaks here and there. Actually 2 places. Me being the perfectionist, I will get the rest off by using a toothbrush. It works using the toothbrush as I got the rest of the rest out at the edges. Edited May 11, 2004 by Godzilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted May 11, 2004 Author Share Posted May 11, 2004 Oh where do I get plastic polish? I need to get rid of the fog. I think I will put the dark green paint so the color may come out a little brighter green. Seems like the red is dull red on the inside but the red is bright due the clear plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neova Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 You can coat / dunk the thing in future acrylic floor polish to fill in the cracks and pores or you can buy automotive plastic polish such as Mothers Brand... Check Kragen's , Pepboys or other automotive places. You can also try some other stuff. I found a link for free plastic polish so have it sent a friend's house or PO Box so you won't get mail spammed http://www.oldphones.com/novusfreesample.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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