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Paints


areaseven
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Paints  

44 members have voted

  1. 1. What brand of paint do you use on your Macross kits?

    • Tamiya
      21
    • Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color
      10
    • Testor's
      6
    • Trumpeter
      0
    • Vallejo
      3
    • Citadel
      1
    • Alclad
      3
    • Academy
      0
    • Life Colour
      0
    • Other (please specify)
      0
  2. 2. What type of paint do you use on your Macross kits?

    • Acrylic
      32
    • Enamel
      4
    • Lacquer
      8


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Just wondering, what do the resident modelers here at MW use for paints?

When I first did Gundam and Macross kits, I started with Tamiya enamel paints. Then, when I moved to the U.S., I switched to Testor's enamel, as I was too lazy to switch to Tamiya acrylic. Today, I use Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color lacquer paints for my VF-25S kits.

Edited by areaseven
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I use mainly Vallejo and sometimes Citadel paints. Started on games workshop miniatures but stayed with my paints when I started to build Gundam and Macross kits.

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I like using Tamiya, found it easier to clean up, been meaning to try out Mr. Color, is it worth it?

Mr. Color paints tend to be more compatible with Gundam and Macross kits straight out of the bottle than Tamiya paints. Also, I had no problems painting the VF-25S's fin tips yellow without having to paint them white first (something I had to do with Tamiya paints in the past).

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Hmmm...for the benefit of beginners, can anyone explain the difference between acrylic, enamel and lacquer paints?

Ok I'll try my luck here....

Acrylic paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry. The acrylic polymer begins to bind together when the paint dries.

Typically the term "enamel paint" is used to describe an oil-based paint product. The paint undergoes a chemical reaction to dry. Hence the paint still smells wet after it is touch dry for a certain amount of time.

Lacquer paints dry entirely by the evaporation of their solvent. The dried film will re-dissolve in its original solvent for an indefinite period of time; no chemical reaction occurs to alter the properties of the film. Generally, Lacquer topcoats are easy to use, fast drying, durable, and easy to buff.

Now just to confuse the situation here....

There are also acrylic lacquers and acrylic enamels..... confused??

Just for your general info - Tamiya Acrylic Paint is actually an Acrylic Lacquer paint.... read the lacquer description above and swipe a rag soaked in alcahol across a kit painted in tamiya paint...... and you will see what I mean!!

Cheers,

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What about the lazy noob who only wants to top coat the model so decals applied with mark setter or sth similar don't crumble when model is posed and transformed? are there acrylic clear coats or only oil-based?

My problem is: will have to paint the tail and ventral fins of the entire SMS squad, red, yellow, blue, green, grey, white (decal provided just does not fit) Tamiya worked ugly on the Bandai kits...then I need to clear coat the entire model to protect the decals, and I am trying to avoid a catastrophic chemical reaction or panel line blurring.

Sorry if these questions are too noob, but thanks again to all the experienced guys.

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I've used tamiya acrylics for the better part of ten years and I probably won't ever switch. I've recently moved back to airbrush and its so clear how good the paints are for that system.

For your interests areaseven, It might be better to reconsider acrylics. Cleanup with acrylics is so much simpler than any other medium. Its easier to correct errors with acrylics, particularly since you can use alcohol to remove paint and redo a job.

Its really a matter of preference of course, but Acrylics have a LOT of things going for it.

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I'll consider acrylics, noyhauser. Last time I checked my hobby shop, I wasn't impressed with the selection of metallic colors compared to the lacquers. Right now, my upcoming VF-25S Super Messiah project will use lacquers only. Perhaps when I actually get into my YF-19 or YF-21 kits, I'll go acrylic on them.

On second thought, I have an assembled RahXephon kit that hasn't been painted yet. Maybe I'll start on that.

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Had to select "other" since I use acrylics from Gunze (thanks to a generous back supply), Tamiya, Pollyscale/Testors, Vallejo, and Life Colour (generally in that order). Whatever gets the job done.

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I'll consider acrylics, noyhauser. Last time I checked my hobby shop, I wasn't impressed with the selection of metallic colors compared to the lacquers. Right now, my upcoming VF-25S Super Messiah project will use lacquers only. Perhaps when I actually get into my YF-19 or YF-21 kits, I'll go acrylic on them.

On second thought, I have an assembled RahXephon kit that hasn't been painted yet. Maybe I'll start on that.

Well as penguin pointed out, it isn't a zero sum game. I too use Alcad lacquers for metalics and acrylics for everything else.

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I use Testors/Model Master enamels. Mainly because it's the easiest to acquire here in the states and because it works decently as a brushing painting paint (I don't have an airbrush and likely won't have one for the foreseeable future). Also tends to be compatible with Testor's own Dullcote clear coat lacquer.

Edited by Vifam7
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I'd also like to add that in terms of toxicity (from least to most), I have been told that the order is:

Acrylic < Enamel < Lacquer

You need really decent ventilation for Enamel and Lacquer though ideally you just want excellent ventilation period. Because I can't afford a spray booth and don't have a fume hood I stick to airbrushing with acrylics. The solvents from Tamiya Spray (which is like their synthetic lacquer) leaves a very very strong scent of acetone ... never a good sign :wacko:

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I actually use acrylics for details and enamels for large areas (rattle can when I can).

Don't forget there are Acrylic AND Enamel overcoats you can use. If you make decals, you overcoat it normally with an acrylic spray.

For overcoats ALWAYS experiment with whatevr will go underneath. Just like not every clothing manufacturer's sizes match, paint manufacturer's formulations vary too! - MT

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By and large I use Tamiya for most everything. Gunze for other things, occasionally Testors Acry, and Alclad (lacquer) for most metals.

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I use Tamiya for most everything plastic kit related. Gunze mostly for Mr surfacer and primers.Thereproducts are great but due to not being able to get them I have not used them much. Alclad is on my list of must try though.

Air brushing enammels is something I have not tried that much yet,as I have not made that many kits that I didnt already have the correct Tamiya paints ready to go.

I tend to use my enammels for detailing work and my oils for dirtying up my finished works though.

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I have been using mostly Tamiya acrylics for now. It works great for airbrushing and it is easily available in the UK.

I recently tried Vallejo Air acrylics and I was not impressed. Mild clogging and paint chipping.

For my VF-25S I wanted a paint that was more resistant to scratching, so I tried Mr.Color. I absolutely love this stuff, apart from the smell. It atomizes in the AB like nothing else and gives a great cover and finish. Unfortunately it is harder to get over here, but I will definitely try to use it on future projects.

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I have been using mostly Tamiya acrylics for now. It works great for airbrushing and it is easily available in the UK.

I recently tried Vallejo Air acrylics and I was not impressed. Mild clogging and paint chipping.

For my VF-25S I wanted a paint that was more resistant to scratching, so I tried Mr.Color. I absolutely love this stuff, apart from the smell. It atomizes in the AB like nothing else and gives a great cover and finish. Unfortunately it is harder to get over here, but I will definitely try to use it on future projects.

That is the main trouble with the U.K. Anyone would think its on the moon not a few miles from the rest of Europe and the world.

Where do you get your Mr.Color from. I have just about run out of the Boat load I brought back from my last trip to Tokyo. Unfortunately I cant see me going back soon due to job changes and the economic state of things. Equally though I don't like paying £4.50 for something I pay a £1 or so for in Tokyo.

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