optimator88 Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 (edited) With my first custom finished it's time to move on to another. I need some paint stripping advice, and this seems to be the place to ask. I've read threads recommending soaking parts in Joy for a week and also about oven cleaner, but everyone seemed to be stripping the original paint. I've acquired a couple of already repainted Jetfires, and the paint is thick and applied with a brush. They look ok, but I would love to be able to strip them down and redo them. If you can see on the red one the, it's so thick that it covers up the panel lines. Has anyone tried stripping thick coats of already applied paint from their valks? Any tips would be welcome. I'm trying to avoid killing any more toys. My girlfriend confidently said she could remove the paint. Trusting her I gave her a jetfire and she left it sealed in a bag of paint thinner over night. The next day it was melted into an ugly green rock Edited August 29, 2008 by optimator88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 I had some good results cleaning up old table top gaming models and pvc kits with Vansih Oxi Clean. No idea if that brand is around where you live, but any kind of oxy-cleaner should work. Usually does the job within a few minutes and the model can be scrubbed with a toothbrush. Should be able to remove even thick layers of paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Bundy Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 (edited) There is a company in Maryland that has a product called Chameleon paint stripper. You can get it in either a gel or liquid from 8 ounces up to a gallon. After letting it set on a Yamato 1/48 for about 20 minutes an old toothbrush took the paint off pretty easily. Hope this helps. http://chameleonproductsonline.com Edited August 29, 2008 by Al Bundy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimator88 Posted August 29, 2008 Author Share Posted August 29, 2008 Thanks for the ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 (edited) BWAHAHAHAHAHAH! DEATH TO THE GIRLFRIEND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I laugh cuz I did the same thing once....sorta. Pine Sol and patience my man. Pine Sol and patience. I won't use anything else (I may try what the previous poster suggested though. Sounds way cool!). Edited August 31, 2008 by Skull-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Admiral Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 I had zero luck with the Pine Sol method. Soaked painted parts in it for over 2 weeks and it removed no paint at all. That was Testors spray enamel gloss paint. Maybe it works better on other paint types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Brake fluid works just make sure you wash the parts thoroughly after though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimator88 Posted September 1, 2008 Author Share Posted September 1, 2008 The first mentioned removers looked great but I couldn't find any around town. So I just submerged the parts in a Pine Sol solution. I'll report back whatever happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Cliff Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Yeah, I have a lot of experience with actual aircraft and armor modelling, And like Big F already wrote, the brake fluid works very well, at least for me, It will remove the paint without attacking the plastic at all, bu be careful, because it may attack the glued joints. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 (edited) I have two 1/55's I got off the bay some time ago and they are painted with some unknown paint its really thick and oven cleaner only makes it go rubbery for a while, where as Brake fluid makes it lift off nicely. I havent got to doing these fully yet but the tested bits came out ok the fluid can be used more that once but make sure its sealed up in a water and air tight container as its Hydroscopic and will leach moisture into it and turn all yucky. Also when it comes to disposal you need to take it to the local dump as you can t just flush it down the drain. Edited September 2, 2008 by big F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I've had success with PineSol taking paint off of REAL aircraft parts. I just wanted to soak them to get the grease off. It worked, and then some! - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I had zero luck with the Pine Sol method. Soaked painted parts in it for over 2 weeks and it removed no paint at all. That was Testors spray enamel gloss paint. Maybe it works better on other paint types. I've used pine sol on everything from Engine Paint to Testors. Works flawlessly. You submerge it in a sealed container and walk away. Scrub it off with a bristle brush when it gets bubbly. Every Valk I've done has been doused in Pine Sol to strip it. Anything stronger makes me worry about permanent damage to the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Admiral Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I've used pine sol on everything from Engine Paint to Testors. Works flawlessly. You submerge it in a sealed container and walk away. Scrub it off with a bristle brush when it gets bubbly. I did exactly this. The paint never got bubbly or lifted from the plastic in any way. The parts were submerged for 14 days. When I tried to brush the paint off after that time, it simply smeared around and created a bigger mess. I had to use denatured alcohol to clean the parts and then I repainted them entirely. I'm not doubting that you've had success with it, but in my experience it didn't work at all. Obviously it doesn't work "flawlessly" in every situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I did exactly this. The paint never got bubbly or lifted from the plastic in any way. The parts were submerged for 14 days. When I tried to brush the paint off after that time, it simply smeared around and created a bigger mess. I had to use denatured alcohol to clean the parts and then I repainted them entirely. I'm not doubting that you've had success with it, but in my experience it didn't work at all. Obviously it doesn't work "flawlessly" in every situation. I'm thinking you got a bad bottle of Pine Sol. All the experten customizers (like KK, etc.) used it. That's how I heard about it. I did switch to the lemon scent due to smell and I always shake it up thoroughly before pouring. Anyone else out there have trouble? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 (edited) I've had success with PineSol taking paint off of REAL aircraft parts. I just wanted to soak them to get the grease off. It worked, and then some! - MT Which is why I'm perplexed that GA had trouble with it. That stuff works great and it doesn't turn your parts into goo. Edited September 3, 2008 by Skull-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcroRay Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 Brake fluid. I've stripped and restored a lot of stuff - including model kits from the 60s. Pine Sol works, but will damage some plastics depending on exposure (which can be variable!). But brake fluid has worked best for me. It can be had cheap at discount stores like Big Lots. Just wash up well & dispose of carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimator88 Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 Are you guys just using straight pinesol? I diluted mine like it says on the bottle and it hasn't made a dent in the paint even though it's been soaking almost 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miriya Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I too soaked in pinesol, not diluted at all, for over 2 weeks and no bubbles and very little paint removal. I had to apply a ghastly amount of elbow grease to get anything to budge and then gave up. Maybe some of us are getting bad batches of pine sol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitze Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 I guess it's that way when paint cures; Soaking in Pine Sol makes cured paint flake off bit by bit but to strip cured lacquer paint (from spray cans for you Tamiya people) is too difficult normally. What I do to deal with this is NOT to use a toothbrush but to use a scrubbing pad like what they use for dishwashing. I use the heavy duty one which is coarser, in order to rub out the stubborn patches of paint. And it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 Are you guys just using straight pinesol? I diluted mine like it says on the bottle and it hasn't made a dent in the paint even though it's been soaking almost 2 weeks. Yep. Straight out of the bottle--do not dilute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimator88 Posted September 27, 2008 Author Share Posted September 27, 2008 After a day of soaking in the straight Pinesol the paint pealed off with no problem. A little wiping and brushing and its ready to be repainted. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) This is an old thread, but I thought I'd let you all know that Pine Sol does work great! I tried it this week on an old helo project. After stripping it down and doing some modifications, I'll have a 1/200 MH-60. It only took a few hours and all the paint came off. I then soaked it in water overnight to neutralize any left overs. Our boards are an awesome resource! - MT Edited February 16, 2009 by MechTech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Here here, to Pine-sol. I've been using it for a long time. What's really great about it is that it doesn't warp the plastic or make it brittle. Glad you found the "juice to get the paint loose" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 I used it on enamel too! I thought it would take forever but it was pretty quick! I always thought commercial paint was die-hard, but Pine Sol kicked it's butt! I don't know how it does on acrylic, maybe I could stick an old paint-laden Tamiya paint bottle in someday. The plastic (ABS for you Valk modders out there) was un-scasthed! An added bonus, it was pine fresh - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neptunesurvey Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 I will have to remember to use Pinesol instead of thinner. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 If you're very careful, Napalm'll take the paint right off... However, if you mess up, it eats the plastic. Also, it's the most flammable method I know... However, this stuff removes spray primer. Even leaving that stuff in paint thinner overnight doesn't affect it. (And I did soak something in paint thinner overnight with spray primer...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcroRay Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Pine-Sol will affect some plastics, making them sticky or degrading their surface. So be careful - don't leave it to soak any longer than it has to. Automotive brake fluid has been the most reliable method for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Napalm Sorry, my local hardware store was all out I think Pine Sol is safe on ABS and reacts to styrene over time. Styrene reacts to just about everything. Citrus oils will melt it! - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojacko Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 whats the best way to get rid off the top coat and acrilic paint as well......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDF-ONE Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 whats the best way to get rid off the top coat and acrilic paint as well......... I have had some good results of stripping Tamiya acrylic paint with Mr.Color Thinner. No overnight soaking required. Just rub it a few times with a wet tissue. I accidentally discovered this while trying to remove a gundam marker line on acrylic paint. Suffice to say that the line was gone afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Napalm Sorry, my local hardware store was all out I think Pine Sol is safe on ABS and reacts to styrene over time. Styrene reacts to just about everything. Citrus oils will melt it! - MT Funny that you mention styrene. You can make Super Napalm, or Napalm-B, out of Polystyrene and low-octane gasoline. The stuff eats plastic (And skin), but has no effect on paper or metal. It also removes paint, especially if it's a plastic-based paint, like an arcryllic. However, if you're not EXTREMELY careful, you'll leave an unwanted "weathering" mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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