making-of video on Youtube

[Ryuji]

part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTokLAJc9Oo

part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fU4W0ncGWxw

[MechTech]

!Gracias! - MT

[grapetang]

Cool! I didn't understand two things in part 2:

1. After washing the panel lines, what's that white stuff he using w/ the Q-tip to clean up the wash?

2. What's he spraying on the wing after applying the "no step" decals? Clear sealant or is it lt.grey paint to blend the decals in?

Thanks for the videos!

[DrunkenMaster2]

Cool! I didn't understand two things in part 2:

1. After washing the panel lines, what's that white stuff he using w/ the Q-tip to clean up the wash?

2. What's he spraying on the wing after applying the "no step" decals? Clear sealant or is it lt.grey paint to blend the decals in?

Thanks for the videos!

Yeah I would like to know as well. That cleaned up the panel lines really well. I couldn't really tell about the decals I assume it was grey too, couldn't tell because of the video and lighting.

Ryuji thanks heads up on the video.

[UN Spacy]

Whoa.

INTERESTING find. Thanks for the links Ryuji!

[kkx]

Cool! I didn't understand two things in part 2:

1. After washing the panel lines, what's that white stuff he using w/ the Q-tip to clean up the wash?

2. What's he spraying on the wing after applying the "no step" decals? Clear sealant or is it lt.grey paint to blend the decals in?

Thanks for the videos!

With my limited Japanese, this is what I understand (please correct me if I am wrong):

1. Is the 9800 polishing compound (he also uses it for polishing the canopy)

2. Is "smoke" that he is spraying. He is doing it base on how he think the air flow will affect the oil stain.

I can't seems to be able to see the different after the smoke was applied.

I did enjoy the video. Learned a few new things.

[kensei]

Is that weights he's added to the front of the plane? What's the rationale?

[HWR MKII]

the weights help keep the nose wheel down. But it reaally isnt needed in any of the hase valk kits.

[kensei]

Ah ok, balance, I guess the rest of the plane is pretty heavy.

[Chas]

Yeah I figured that the white stuff was a plastic polishing compound of some type, though I've never thought of using it that way before. I'll have to do a test and see how it works. (he used enamel for the panel lines right?) It's a good video, but they missed the best part of model building --FIXING YOUR COCK_UPS! -- everyone knows that's the most fun, and also the part where you learn the most!

I agree that you don't need the weights if your building it OOB, but if anyone is going to do a gerwalk conversion weighting the nose and feet/legs is very important!

Thanks for posting this Ryuji!

[Macross73]

Great video thanks for sharing.

i wish he had Macross in the title for searching purposes

[grapetang]

Thanks for the clarification, kkx. I'll probably stick w/ thinner to clean my washes. and that shading/ weathering/ oil stain flow he's applying sure is subtle; I can't see it in the video... It's still neat though!

[Chaos]

So, is he using varnish base for the paint and enamel base for the panel lining?

[Sebastian]

He is using Tamiya Acrilic to paint and Tamiya Enamel for the panel lines. You may change the brand.

Great Video Riuyi, is really good to see how other modellers work. Anyways I guess we all do the same technics... when not lazy.

[BinaryFalcon]

Nice videos, even though I'm a bit late to the party on seeing them. I always like looking at how other modelers work to see if I can pick up any ideas from them.

The plastic tape (label making material) bit was new to me. In the past I've used extra stock or a ruler as a guide, but the self adhesive method looks easier.

I was actually yelling at him when he was airbrushing solid colors though (inside of the cockpit and then the white basecoat). His technique there was horrible. Way too much paint flow and far too much time spent in one place. When he was base coating parts of the fuselage you could see the paint building up in thick pools and starting to run and drip. It can all be sanded and polished away of course, but why make extra work for yourself?

As far as the paint for basecoat/panel lines was concerned, he was definitely using water based acrylics for the base colors, letting those fully cure, and then using oil based enamels for the panel lining. I discovered that method myself many years ago and the beauty of doing details in enamels over arcylic bases like that is that once it is cured, the acrylic paint can withstand mineral spirits, so washing the model with it won't screw up the base coats you've already put down.

That allows you to wash freely like he did without worry, or worst case if you really screw up, go to town with the thinner to remove the enamel before it dries and start over from a clean slate.

Nice use of polishing compounds as well. I discovered that I was able to siginificantly improve the look of my models when I learned to start thinking of colors and patterns in terms of both layers and "negative space" instead of just "put this on, then that on, then the next thing". Once you're able to think of things in that way, you suddenly starting thinking of all sorts of little "tricks" you can do to make applying the paint much easier and do a lot of subtle effects you otherwise couldn't manage. You also start to realize that paintjobs that look tremendously complex often aren't, so long as you think of and apply them the right way. It's amazing how simple it is to create a finished product that looks way more complex and deep than it really is.

A couple of things I saw that could be improved (possibly not seen due to editing):

1. When airbrushing oil stains/flow lines from joints and panels, mask off the upstream panel so that it originates with a sharp line along the panel and then fades back. If you've got a fluid leak along an edge it's not likely to progress much in the upwind direction before being blown back and thinned out by the relative wind. Simple dirt buildup, however, can occur on both sides of the panel. You just need to think about where the stain came from and how it formed before you apply it.

2. Apply a clear gloss coat before applying the decals, no matter what your intended finish (gloss, semi-gloss or flat) and use a decal setting solution. I noticed a fair amount of "silvering" in his decals, which can be completely eliminated by laying down a glossy layer and using setting solution before applying the decals. Silvering is caused by air trapped between the decal and the model surface, and decals adhere best to a shiny surface. Setting solution helps soften them and get them to snuggle down into any panel lines or indentations and make them look like part of the model. Done carefully and properly, you can get decals to look painted on over some pretty severe changes in elevation by doing the above. The old Testors 1/48 SR-71 model is a great example of this, as much of the model is covered in deep grooves/slats to simulate the expansion joints in the skin. It's possible to get the decals on over that with no silvering at all if you gloss it first and then use setting solution and take your time with it. I will warn that setting solutions can be scary the first time you use them. There's usually a period of time in there where the decals look like they're melting and shrivelling up like a slug covered in salt, and it's hard not to freak out when you see it. It's normal, don't panic. Don't touch it and wait it out. It'll relax and settle down again into the grooves and all will be well. (But as always, check compatibility between the decals and the solution with some scraps first before comitting to the real work, just to be sure).

3. Another common step I've seen with respect to polishing the canopy is a coat of Future (just a quick dip) is usually done after all the polishing is complete. It should help even things out completely and make it crystal clear.

Good stuff overall though, I enjoyed watching it.

[KiriK]

wow... great video to see how some modeling is really done... makes me wanna try... but looks like a lot of materials to get....

[Mallet21]

LOL at the bottle of Jack Daniels on his work bench.....

I"m pretty sure the compound he is using is this stuff:

He used the red stuff to clean up the panel lines and used a combo of the red (9800)and yellow (3000) to clean up the canopy.

http://www.soft99.co.jp/en/products/detail/31/270

http://www.soft99.co.jp/products/category/31

Edited February 15, 2007 by Mallet21