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ahiachris

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Everything posted by ahiachris

  1. It's out in Hobby Search with pics and scans of the instructions http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10242338
  2. Will the figures in 1/72 or 1/60? I am still waiting for the 1/72 deck crews.
  3. I don't know if it is accurate or not. I'd already ordered a set.
  4. Go to bricklink.com. Register as a member and you can shop online at the registered shop owners for brand new or used bricks.
  5. Because the silicon mold used to produce a resin kit will only last for around thirty kits. After that the mold will break very easily.
  6. Another piece of information: If you're going to thinner bath the parts, do remember to cut out a few pieces of sprues and throw them into the bath to see if the thinner will attack the resin or not. Some manufacturers (pirate copies) will use low quality resin other than high quality resin used by Japanese manufacturers. The resin will warp very quickly. Some very thin parts will warp very quickly too. Don't soak for more than 15 minutes for good quality resin kits. For thin and low quality resin parts do use concentrated cleaner to soak for as long as you like. Then use a toothbrush to brush them in running water.
  7. Ooops, the clean up I meant is removing the sprues on the pieces and filling up the holes. There's no need to wash the pieces again after the thinner soak. Remember the thinner we choose is very volatile. Use it in a open space and wear masks. Another way of removing the mold release is to use concentrated multi-purpose cleaner. http://www.swipe.com.hk/web/eng/blue.html This kind of detergent is so strong that it will attack paint surface. Soak the kit parts in the detergent and then clean up with water. For the surface treatment I'll usually spray a thin coat of Resin Surface Primer on the parts before painting. http://www.car-model-kit.com/150-surfacers/12535-mr-resin-primer-surfacer-gunze/
  8. We usually soak the resin parts into laquer paint thinner for around 15 minutes before doing any clean up. Afterwards, we will let them dry in the air. We bought the thinner at hardware stores. It is use for spray painting. The product number is 3054 which I believe is harmful to both the atnosphere and your body.
  9. It is because of the mold release silicon agent the japanese use. Nice built.
  10. I didn't join any Gundam forum. I usually buy Gundam related modelling magazines. Following are some websites that have good gundam bulits. http://blog.yahoo.com/newwave/articles/31414 http://www.fg-site.net/ http://artab.blog9.fc2.com/blog-category-12.html http://kenta0824.blog133.fc2.com/blog-category-23.html http://www2.odn.ne.jp/~guusdesign/0-index.html
  11. John also did one in 1/5000. It'll still be huge in 1/5000
  12. Hong Kong's legal system is different than the one in China. Not as extreme as in Turkey but not as lenient as in Canada.
  13. I'd already got the Model Graphix. I'll be picking up my copy on wednesday. But I'm not sure whether it's the Macross Mechanics 30th or the Double R Mechanics Vol. 3.
  14. I have Labor X, Peacemaker, Helldiver, Broken and many more. Have to look in my storage. I also don't have the pickel-kun.
  15. Thanks. Wait for your good news. I got those two Labors too and the command car.
  16. Wow... I got several of these kits. They're mostly 1/48 all sculptured by Hitoshi Hayami. This is one kit I'm looking for. Anyone have one for sale?
  17. Or you can try Hobby Search http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10227600
  18. From what i see from what the big companies are releasing at all the big scale naval kits (1/350) and 2199 kits (1/1000)i wish that they are willing to roll out the sdf-1.
  19. Indeed we can control when the thing are in the hands of the postal guys. I had an experience with a lego store in Germany. I got the tracking from them and it only show that the parcel was in the international terminal. I called the guy who sent it and he in turn contacted the Germany postal office and the people working there have no idea where the parcel is. It end up stranded there for almost two months until i receive it.
  20. My models usually come from two categories: 1. Fixed pose with which you could ADD loads of details onto it (Hasegawa, Tamiya, Fujimi, B-Club, Club M, Yellow Submarine and so on....) 2. Free pose (you could hardly make them look good without loads of modifications (BANDAI!!!!)
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