Jasonc
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I started on the first coat of yellow for the MtR version, and so far, it seems to be a good idea. This is just on the white prints, and not the grey version. I have a feeling that the grey won't work as well, due to the fact that it's much smoother, but I haven't tried it yet. For the white printed parts (what used to be WSF), it helps a lot with worrying about scratching the paint and seeing the under coat, or the white of the material. I did do my first sanding of it after the paint set, and it retained a lot of the yellow color, which means that the paint is under the surface, still retaining the desired color. For the paint, I used an acrylic paint, and thinned it out to about 40%. This helped it to coat nice and thin, and it's consistency is thin enough to get it well under the top layer of the material. I'll get a pic up tonight at some point. BTW, Xigfrid, are those magnets on the wings? Do you have a link for them?
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I was going to start this over the weekend. Thanks so much for this. I'm trying to work on fitting certain pieces together now, so as long as I can get it together, I'll be getting these done soon. I mixed my yellow together with a hint of orange, and so I have the tint that's needed, along with the red and the rest of the colors.
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There are 3 versions. I'm hoping to get them all, but as of now, they seem quite pricey.
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Has Fext given any indication that they've reached the 600 count yet?
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I was going to try today, but I have a lot of sleep to catch up on, and I'm not feeling that great, so I'll try to start tomorrow. I am having one helluva time with the wings though. Maybe I'm just not prepping them right? I may need to order them again to try those again.
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With the set I have now, I'm going to try a new method of paint application. Because this material is quite sponge-like, I'm not going to apply a primer. I'm going to use several layers of the color I want to let that soak into the crevices. After a few times of paint/sand, I should have a solid color I don't have to worry about scratching completely off, and should be under the top most layer. At least that's my hope. I'm doing the Macross the Ride yellow valk, as I'm not a big fan of the prototype color, and the Miriya version, well, I just have too many Miriya versions of things already. I may do that one if I do a second version, but for now, MtR is my go to for this. So, a loud yellow, red, and I should have that decal done in a couple weeks.
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Isn't Shapeways getting the Stratasys J750 color printer, that can print up to 500,000 colors? Depending on the durability of that plastic, you may need to consider putting color on these parts.
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The Ranka version looks quite well, while I do not like the look of the Sheryl. I have the Sheryl version, and it's not a good face sculpt by any means.
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That was what I needed. The piece that has 3 holes, only had 2. Now I can continue. Thanks for your help.
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I'll recast one for you. I will need to make sure it's sturdy enough to handle the stress of fiddling with it. So far, this one is still a little soft, but it could just be the mix I gave it.
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I'm a little confused as to the head unit construction. It mentions that you need 3 pins, which I have, but the head has a section that appears to have one pin connection. Where do the pins go? I'm sure one goes into the head connection to the cocpit, so that's 2, but there's a third that I cannot figure out.
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New Macross TV Series in 20xx (sometime this decade)
Jasonc replied to Tochiro's topic in Movies and TV Series
I'm an old fan as well. I watched it in '84. -
New Macross TV Series in 20xx (sometime this decade)
Jasonc replied to Tochiro's topic in Movies and TV Series
It's all greed, because fans get no joy out of these, and it's really all a bunch of spoon fed stuff that nobody liked, EVER! Sorry to say, but do you have any idea how ridiculous and ignorant this sounds? I guess if you dont know the trends or Delta's popularity, it'd go over your head, but you do realize that there's more than one company involved in these productions, and no, it is not all to 0ay for filming. You may want to think a little more before such a fallible comment. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you don't like what has been coming out, it's because it is not made for you. It's not madd for the West, or most of our demographic. We aren't even considered on what should be considered, and I'm glad. If we left it up to most here, it would be some gritty war drama with no character and soulless. -
I'll let you know when I start them and post pics as I do them.
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Very interesting. That's a great idea. I'm going to be redesigning those two top pieces so they look a little more accurate to the images of the MtR books. I think that's about all I want go change at this point.
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What back piece are you referring to?
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Thanks. I just scribed the lines again after several bouts of paint and sanding, snd it's quite smooth. I may do one more coat before it is how it's supposed to be. Thanks. I was actually quite surprised how clear it came out. I was expecting to need to do a lot more work, but it is not bad right out the mold, and it fits perfectly. This clear resin is pretty strong, too, so in a few more days, it'll be completely cured. I only used the back as the demos portion, so theres no real cleanup. I'm rather proud of this set. One of my finest works.
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It's looking good.
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The canopy came out exactly as 8 wanted it. I can't be happier with the final result. Apparently it's quite clear. It really doesn't need any sanding or buffing.
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If I had the money, I'd want that 1/1 Sheryl. That said, the $18K price tage (which I think is for both) is astronomical. I am expecting a large sum of money soon, so maybe. It depends on when that comes though. Plus the shipping, Yeah, not cheap.
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That actually looks quite good. That material is nice and sturdy, and if I could get it completely clear, I'd just use it. I did notice that even after using a liquid polish, the material still had what looks like tiny ripples underneath the polished surface. it's probably just a part of the printed resin's characteristics, so I didn't want to go all out trying to fix that if it cannot be. I put the clear gloss coat over it last night, and it's shinier, so today after work, I'll be making the first part of mold. I need to work on a way to make it so that there are no seem lines, but can easily come out and I think I have a way to get a great recast. I'll show you once it's done, as the process will take me into later this week to finish, and I want a full cure time in the mold. Clear resin takes about 3-4 days at least to fully cure, especially if it is thin.
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Except China uses one that isn't used by anyone else. I've had to work with a couple companies that got stuck with having to deal with this issue. It's some sort of proprietary program from what I understand, and isn't just a matter of converting. In any case, it's getting way off topic. I got some of the parts 9ver the weekend. First thing was buffing the canopy. Because the canopy comes foggy no matter what, I used a liquid buffer and a microfiber cloth to smooth it out, followed by clear coat. I'm going to recast it so that it'll be crystal clear. Thankfully, it is quite thick, so once it cures as a copy, it will be a good, solid piece, and look as clear as a toy manufactured part.
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The problem, and I don't know if this has been resolved or if they even send these out for manufacturing, is that if they're done in China, what happens is that the original CAD is usually redone in their own specific CAD language, then it is manufactured. So any sort of design, if they still manufacture in China, is broken down and redone anyways. I wish they would do something like make unassembled kits still. It'd be cool to see some of the obscure designs. I still long for a VA-3 Invader.
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So, all I'm missing now is the Kai version, and I'm simply not in a rush for it, or really anything, so I can now save up, wait, til the armor set goes up. Damn
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My 31A will be here right before Super Dimension Con. It's about time.
