Chas
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Everything posted by Chas
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Here's a pretty good review of the printer.
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Both points well taken. This is the first sla machine I've seen for less than a grand so I thought it was worth posting about. Prices will hopefully be coming down from here. Fingers crossed.
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Just saw this and thought some here may be interested. https://www.banggood.com/ANYCUBIC-Photon-UVResin-SLADLP-3D-Printer-115x65x155mm-Printing-Size-With-28inch-Touch-Screen-p-1267935.html?rmmds=category&cur_warehouse=CN
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https://hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?Word=1/15 aoshima ride armor Up for order at HLJ.
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From the Google translation of that page they appear to be reissues of the old 1:15 Imai plastic models due in May this year from Qingdao Bunka Tsukuba. The Hoquet is interesting 'cus that's a hard one to find in my experience. https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fhobby.dengeki.com%2Fnews%2F527892%2F
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Off topic I know, but it's a shame that those A. S. BSG figures are the Tokyo 2040 Hardsuits only. Got a few ideas for modding the kit figure to proper size and proportions though so hopefully that works out. * Correction it's not the Tokyo 2040 suit it's the Bubblegum Crash suit.
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Well they have redone the main gun booms because on the cruiser mode kit they are just the DYRL version with new parts for the front terminus point. I wonder if I bought one of theses and recast the booms if I could make them work on the cruiser kit?
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Interesting, that is the SDFM version, but the cruiser mode they released as the SDFM was basically a re-pop of their DYRL cruiser mode with the Prometheus and Daedalus and a few altered pieces. I wonder if they are going to do a new cruiser mode that is actually a true SDFM version?
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wider view of the layout of the Dio posted above:
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Some current listings on Yahoo Japan for anyone interested. https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search/search?fr=auc_top&p=超時空要塞マクロス+ポスター&oq=&auccat=0&tab_ex=commerce&fixed=0&sc_i=&ei=UTF-8&b=1
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The text descriptions have been posted at HLJ and indicate that it is a s the good Captain had indicated. Sorry for my brain fart earlier. It should have been clear - I'd just forgotten that these kits, at one time came packaged together.
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Tekering already mentioned that in his post with the links above. Most likely just the wrong image used at HLJ.
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So they are the old single mode 1:72 kits from Imai? Ok, but the term 'Conversion' is a bit odd 'cus they don't transform at all. For a second there I thought they were some kind of additional parts to allow the building of each kit into either of the three various modes, but I couldn't figure out how that would work. For $25.00 bucks It batter be all three in a single pack A-La
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What the hell are these 'Conversion Kits'? Never heard of them before. They are for the old 1:72nd Imai Legioss kits? Anyone have pics of the original releases?
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1:12 and 1:15 are nice, but this custom 1:6 Mospeada blows my mind. I love this fellas blog, Here's a youtube vid to wet your appetites.
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Sorry, but I don't get it. Because the gun on the head is cast in gray you now have to paint the whole kit? Why not just buy a few bottles of cheap craft paint and try to mix up a match to paint the head-gun? It's so small you could probably get away with just dipping it. Try painting it white first and then trial and error til you get a colour you are happy with. Seems to me that would be the path of least resistance in this situation.
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I could scan the decals from THIS ONE and email 'em to you if it's what you're looking for.
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@arbit are you talking about resin casting? I wouldn't recommend using liquid resin in an epoxy putty mould. If you are asking about bubbles in liquid resin used in silicone moulds that is very different process. Wit liquid resin in a silicone mould you would need to use a vacuum chamber (pressure pot) of some sort to force the air out of the resin. Epoxy Putty casting is a different process that is good for recreating small parts in a 'quick and dirty' fashion, but I wouldn't use it for large parts or a whole kit.
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Just realized that you may be referring to a 'Short-Shot' where there is part of the mould that does not get filled (in this case with putty) due to air being trapped (usually in a corner etc...) If that is indeed what you mean the solution is to create a path for the air to escape - a 'vent'. I usually poke a hole in the offending area such that the air can escape through to the topside, or Bottom of the mould. This way when you pop your moulding putty in and close the mould- pressing firmly you will know that area is filled when you see the putty coming out of the vent.
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Not sure what you mean. The recast part should look like the part that the mould was made from. If you make a mould from a melted beam saber then the recast part will look like a melted beam saber - except it will be made of epoxy putty, not soft, translucent, coloured plastic.
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Yeah, the standard is what I use. It works well.
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Yep that should work fine.
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I've cast the hands and individual face parts from various Gundam kits and lots of small pieces from all sorts of other stuff that ad broken off, never really had an issue with air bubbles. I just pack the putty in real tight. Ohh, and DRex I just use miliput as it's cheap and available where I am. No need for anything super special here. Here is a tutorial (where I first learned how to do this) from a Malasian modelling forum PLAMO. All props to the original author http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=38
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Do yourself a favour and Google 'recasting with epoxy putty'. For a small part like that it is the way I would go - quick, easy, no exotic ($$) material needed, easy to do over and over again, and results are quite usable.
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OOOOO yes! Appleseed! that would be pretty awesome indeed! OH! OH! What scale are theYamato mecha-collection kits?!
