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MechTech

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Everything posted by MechTech

  1. SHhhhhh, don't tell anyone . I'm building the raising/lowering gear case today. - MT
  2. So far so good! - MT
  3. Thanks guys. The upper part won't be for at least another month or two. I HAVE to keep my workbench clean or my two little ones will destroy or misuse what;s on top! The mounting point is made of HEAVY DUTY brass parts soldered together (earlier posts show some of it) with eight bolts holding it in place. All of the plastic around it is 3mm thick styrene and some carefull engineering to increase it's strength and placement efficientcy. In this case, more is better! The motors are so heavy, it does a "wheelie." I photographed this with one of three batteries in the hull. So far, so good... - -MT
  4. Great weathering Kylwell. It doesn't look "PC gamey" anymore. Neptunesurvey, another trick (if I'm picturing your description right) is to scribe the base of the hatch with a fine scribe until it seperates. It takes a while, but you'll have less sanding. - MT
  5. UPDATE 8 Nov 06 These are some ROUGH pictures showing the parts assembled but still not completed yet. I figured out my battery needed charging so the focus was off in the first two . [attachmentid=37871] Motors UP. [attachmentid=37872] Motors Down. [attachmentid=37873] Motors turned 90 degrees for parallel parking (hopefully it won't capsize lilke this either ). I still have a lot to do on these parts, but here they are test fitted. - MT
  6. It looks good! What's the big box section? - MT
  7. There's several vendor's, but yeah, they make them (they make EVERYTHING - figure wise in 1/144)! http://www.reynaulds.com/preiser/temp.asp?item=77100 - MT
  8. Since 1/200 stuff is SOoooo much harder to find... For those who haven't seen yet, Herpa Models (Germany) has some great MILITARY accessories and aircraft that are new. Here's the 1/200 link for their homepage in English: http://www.herpa.de/collect/(2dwvru451q1se...serie_e=Fighter I'm getting the ground sets when they are in stores. There are several retailers in the States and UK that carry/will carry this line. Preiser also makes an extensive line of 1/200 figures. Here's some examples (note the mechanics are already in the Macross colored overals - like in my avatar ): http://www.hobbylinc.com/diecast/preiser-diecast.htm Hopefully this helps somebody! - MT
  9. I thought this thread was gone off the scope. Hey Skull-1, you're supposed to be inspired. You gotta start somewhere. I wouldn't ditch your Promethius project. My philosophy is that if I can do it, anybody can. I just didn't pick up some styrene and build something out of the blue. It's like everything, you learn as you go. - MT
  10. Thanks guys. I'm hoping to try out the whole workings tonight. Hey BigF, no problems except I don't have enough of them! Were yours made in the USA? There were some bad copies of those I've seen before from China. - MT
  11. PM "Ranger565." He deals in the "classics" and should be able to hook you up. I got a 1/200 Monster from him for $70.00 US! Yeah, you might have to deal with shipping charges, but I would say it'll be worth it. Ask for a quote. I also highly reccomend casting copies of those parts you want. If you don't know how, you WANT to learn! If you live out in the middle of nowhere like I have before, it's hard to get stuff period. - MT
  12. SHAAAWEEEeeeeet! I finally got to see some video! (the earlier ones would not play on my PC except for the sound). EXCELLENT engineering work. The grouping of your flying surfaces and exhaust deflectors was perfectly coordinated! I believe you could outmanuever most electric craft in your weight cataegory (though I'm sure you can't go VTOL). Is your C/G off, or is it the airframe response that is causing it to porpoise? Great work again! - MT
  13. Thanks for the heads up! I'm seriously thinking... I can't spend the rest of my life in 1/200 scale! - MT
  14. Nice "metal work" Kylwell. Chromed or bottle?
  15. UPDATE 5 NOVEMBER 06 Here is the latest (by the way-I get it wit the missle test-that's not until maybe March???). Here's the stern tower that holds up the pod shaft and allows it to be held up, or lowered down. I had a good photo of it from the top before accidentally deleting it. Don't know what's up with the focus issues!? [attachmentid=37736] The stern tower. The curved parts were made on my toaster before. They were strong, stiff and lightweight so I though they'd be perfect. The tower is rock solid and won't allow any flex when the motors are mounted to the brass tubing. [attachmentid=37737] Side view. The threaded rod will be trimmed down when everything is in place. [attachmentid=37738] The stern tower clamped (in focus) and showing the threaded rod protruding. I hope to finish the mechanical parts of it this week. - MT
  16. !Gracias! - MT
  17. I got a yellowed Super Ostrich I'm thinking of "fixing up" someday, let us know what you've decided upon. - MT
  18. I remember this thread. I wondered what happened!? - MT
  19. No float test yet. I still have to finish off the stern "drive" area and water proof around the stabilizer boxes and main coupling joint in the hull's center. Hopefully the lowering of the drive won't throw the C/G off, but make it more stable. Time will tell! It's broad beamed and flat bottomed, hopefully "battleship stable." SDF-1, missile test??? - MT
  20. All right, someone crazy enough to build the "other" ship! Congratulations and I hope it all comes out good. It sounds like you're right on with the measurements. - MT
  21. Kylwell - Nice cannon whatever they're going on??? Shiyao - The Dom looks good, but on the "Clean" side. If you do use a diorama, just make sure it's not "dirty." The Dom will not look like it is supposed to be there. Keep it up! - MT
  22. Thanks Isamu. Hopefully I'll finish the mounting part this week. - MT
  23. Not bad. Sounds good for "home brewed." Anything better than the original DYRL in English please! My tapes are dying - time to go with a new DVD now I guess. - MT
  24. UPDATE 28 October 06 Here's the painted bracket and gluing on the deck that will hold the bracket. The deck will have several longitudnal ribs to strengthen it and a couple of high ones to support the hanging weight of the assembly (that's what will enable it to raise or lower). [attachmentid=37517] Painted bracket (heavy on the solder for strength). [attachmentid=37518] Fitting in the bracket (note one side is thicker than the other of the hull). The bracket is centered on the hull to keep the center of gravity balanced). Too late to fix the hull now ! [attachmentid=37519] Bracket sitting on pod showing how it will fit in the "UP" or "stowed" position. [attachmentid=37520] Gluing on the deck to hold the bracket (ribs will be glued on when it dries thoroughly). I'm getting there! I can almost taste the final coat of paint on the lower hull (I hope it's not lead based ). - MT
  25. Another good place is www.modernplastics.com . They call it HIS (High Impact Styrene). .040 is the thinnest they have. That's where I've gotten all my stock (and a lot of it too ) - MT.
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