azrhino

Count me in for one, please.

CRAP.... 6 (if is stays around $300)

Hmmmm, June 19th. I think I had better clear that date on my calendar. It would be a good time to escape the heat of Phoenix, also.

I have to go with static models also. That is the main reason I didn't jump in and buy the recast variable VF-4 that is currently in the For Sale section. It would seem a waste to buy something that transforms, and build it in fighter mode only (the only mode it looks good in IMHO). I attempted several years ago to build the Cy-Kill as a variable model. After several bits broke that were integral to the structure, it has been sitting in storage ever since, unfinished . One day I will probably break it out and finish it as a non- transforming model, but too much other stuff on my modeling plate right now. Later

Go to a craft store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby and ask for Art Emboss. See the attached link for product information. Art Emboss

I have no clue what Hasegawa WILL produce, but it would be nice to see them produce a Gerwalk version of some of the a/c already available.

My general order is: paint Future (makes a smooth surface for the decals to help prevent silvering) panel lines decals touchups dull coat (seals everything up) weathering The most important thing is to have fun, and experiment a little.

The canopy looks the same on each to me. I think the yellow just makes it stand out more. I have to say they are both beautifully done models, but I have one little nit to pick with Neil's. He has the navigation lights backwards. It's still an outstanding job, though.

You mean other than the fact that much of the translation was incomprehensible??? No. I am considering getting ahold of a fansub script and resubtitling the series on one disc containing all 5 episodes. Provided it is not commercially released within the next couple of years.

Damn it, Jessee!!! First Monkey-N, and now you coming up with more stuff to consume my modeling funds! From the shots you are showing, this is going to be a gorgeous add-on to a valkyrie model. My compliments to all involved in the creation of this. One question though. Does the arm have any reinforcing, or is it made of a strong enough material that it won't bend and deflect over time? Please keep us appraised of the progress. I am looking forward to the day that this shows up in the "For Sale" section of the forum. Later

My compliments on the design work and the casting. Looks like a really fun kit, and could have some incredible diorama possibilities. I would definitely be in for one, and could probably be pursuaded into two. Later

Congratulations to you and your wife, LTSO!!! That looks like a perfect 1:1 scale micro-human. :-)

If the compressor has a good regulator, it should handle the lower pressures just fine. Also make sure to have a moisture trap somewhere between the compressor and the airbrush. Good Luck!

SCI-FI and ANIME GEEKS UNITE!!! We'll bomb their aircraft and armor from orbit!!! Great idea LTSO. Hopefully with a little grass roots effort, we can get FSM to start acknowledging this area of the hobby again. I'll make sure add my voice to your post on the FSM board. Later

Forgive the oddball/noob/stupid question, but what is the thing behind the pilot's seat? Is that something to attach the canopy to, so it can be displayed open? I like the effect of the slurry wash. It is definitely a technique I am going to try on my next project. Later

THANK YOU, GERWALKER!!! I have been looking for that slurry formula for months.

My operating range is about 7psi to 30psi depending on how much I thin the paint. I usually only run at 30psi if I am spraying dull coat, or if I need to blow out some stubborn paint that is gumming up the tip. For finer control, I use about 1 to 2 drops of paint in about 3 to 5 drops of thinner. This lets me use a very low pressure so I can move the airbrush closer to what I am working on. This lets you spray a fairly fine line. BTW, I use an Iwata Eclipse HP and I only use acrylic paints. Hope this helps.

I can't speak for TamiyaCon, but at the IPMS Nationals in Phoenix this year, the winner of the diorama category was Dr. Raleigh Williams with his entry "The Great Air Race of 1910". The entire diorama was made of aircraft from the movie of the same name, with probably 90% of the aircraft being scratchbuilt. If I can find some better pictures of the diorama, I will send them along.

Currently in Glendale (Phoenix), Arizona. Grew up in Central Nebraska, and did a 3 year stint in Albuquerque, New Mexico

I think you are going to find the gamut out there. I know some guys in my modeling club that turn out great models using Testor's cement and rattle cans. I unfortunately, seem to feel that I need the best equipment I can afford, and that the equipment alone will make my projects master- pieces. WRONG!!! They are pieces...but I won't say of what. I will say that some things work better (or at least make the work more pleasureable) with better tools; a SHARP X-acto blade, my Iwata Eclipse airbrush, good paint And if you want to reduce a lot of swearing, get a good kit. The Bandai/Arii/ Imai Macross kits may be cheaper (and are great for practice) but a well engineered kit like the Hasegawa kit go together so much nicer. The important rule obviously is have fun, and if it looks good to you, thats all that matters. Just my $0.02. Later

Looks great! I realize this is very early in the process, but is there a ballpark figure for how much each component might cost? Not trying to pin you down on a final price, just need to determine how many pennies I need to start saving. Thanks

I wandered over to IMDB and the movie is already up. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0120667/ The cast list is...intriguing. I am happy that they are chosing "relative" unknowns as opposed to super stars. Guess we'll have to wait to see it in the theatre.

I would love to see a 1/72 VF-4 from Flashback 2012 (unless there is already one out there that I don't know about). I have the 1/72 vinyl VF-4 from Hobby Base Retppu (unbuilt), and would love to have something that is not saggy, deforming vinyl.

I am going to make some educated guesses as to reason for the scales. 1/72 is kind of easy. It translates into 1 scale inch is equal to 72 actual inches, and I will assume 72" was chosen as the average height of a man (72 inches = 6 feet). As for 1/48 scale, 1/4 inch = 1 foot (hence the reason it is often called quarter scale by the old timers in my modeling club ). I suppose it was originally chosen as a nice, easy division. AZRhino