Ido

I will sand where I'm gonna to glue, I did it before and there is no problem in doing that. About the mistake, I'm sure that after I will join the two parts the putty will stay on I had the same problem with one YF-19 Intake. IMHO, I tried Tamiya acrylics, various enamel paints but mr.color kick them all, just make sure to use leveling thinner and they airbrush better then tamiya's, however stay away from the clear gloss/ semi-gloss coats, they sucks! Glosscote thinned with Mr. color leveling thinner is far better. I will try floquil gloss coats too and let you know how they work. Acrylics are way too much weak for my tastes. You can find many infos about it Here (note) I paint acrylics over mr.color without problems, i think the problem exists only if you use pure alchool to thin them I buy mr.color at R10

Looks gorgeous, It will be an impressive model.

Finally all the sanding work on the cockpit pieces is done. Here I made an idiot mistake, so I have to reshape the plastic using polyester putty, I hope it will be fixed. Now the cockpit is primered with mr.surfacer 1200, it cover less then mr.surfacer 1000 but it has a much lighter tone. As I thought, there are some area that need some fine grit sanding. I broke the left control stick yesterday and I became crazy tryng to glue a new home-made one, I lost all the surronding details... finally it looks right, I glue it with mr.cement then I used a little of tenax to give it strenght, how do you do it? Ca glue just made a mess. I would like to color the front landing gear bay before fit it in the fuselage and doing the cockpit, have you some reference pic or ideas?

The vf-1 cockpit artwork doesn't show a plain floor, however It will not be very visible so i just added a couple of strips on the edge, so I got less empty space. Today I will work a little on the cockpit, I'll post pics later.

I don't remember the space whales as villains in M7... However its true that the protodeviln aren't scary at all, I mean, even if they are powerful demons that can easely destroy a fleet their look is so silly that you cannot take them seriously. Really. IMHO

VF-0S none. Surely one VF-0A, I want a cannon fodder If they release the vf-0D another one, I like both CF and Shin blue version. And a ghost booster set if its avaible.

I also rescultped a little the control sticks to make them decent looking The camera isn't so good to show them clearly, damn. I will probably add some styrene strip to the plain looking floor (or how its called?) in the cockpit.

In flight mode without pilot is a little weird... well, you can do a Jetfire... MW Cheng was going to do the vf-1 with landing gear up in his vf-1 build up, when will you continue that? Ok, I have to sand the injection marks in the landing gear bay, how do you sand such hard to reach areas? Its really easy with this trick I got on the web, you must fold a little strip of abrasive paper, then you hold the thing with tweezers, this way you can reach any area without harming the details. I don't use grits rougher then #600 when sanding putty to have a better control, if you sand too much putty you have to apply the putty and sand again. Here the results! I cleaned all the residues with an old toothbrush dipped in water and soap, a small brush and blowing air with my airbrush. The darker circle is caused by a bit of tamiya putty under the surfacer, It will take a lot of mr. base white to cover that. Lunch time.

Yeah probably its like that, the vf-11 in Macross7 use the same system, the heatshield and canopy opens and the pilot can enter in the battroid.

Every visible injection marks and seam will be erased, thats my policy. Can't do anything today, the putty isn't fully dry yet, so I just changed the abrasive paper on my handy files, pro-hobby sell replacement self adhesive paper strips but just glue abrasive paper on them is a lot cheaper. I have to let them dry overnight to be sure they will became waterproof. Tomorrow its sunday so I should have a lot of time to work on this. Form left to right #320 #800 #400 #600

Leave that big gap isn't a great idea I sanded the edge and now it fit almost perfectly, today I filled the pin holes with mr.surfacer and cutted the parts needed for the cockpit, tomorrow I will sand those parts. I noticed just today that the hase vf-1 doesn't have the option for the open canopy, now, for this model I don't care, but if in future I wish to make a open canopy vf-1 how I'm supposed to do it? I have the weapon set but i decided to don't include the pilot, cause this will take more time and I don't know even if I can finish this. It will be a boring model indeed The vf-1 I'm building is the latest vf-1a/j/s if you want to know.

The intakes!!! AAAARGH!!!!!!!!!! I'll wait for a A or D, I hate how the S head like in the 1/48 show up in fighter mode. Was the WF Vf-0s really a kitbashed 1/48? It seems crazy to kitbash a 1/48 vf-1 into a vf-0, don't make sense at all so i considered it the 1/60 vf-0 prototype from the start. I'm happy to see that it comes with missiles and fastpacks.

OK let's see if I can complete this... I started off with studyng some main pieces I'm surprised! it seems that the cockpit/landing gear bay piece don't fit in the nose. its too large. Need to sand the edges until the two pieces will close fine.

Look here I have the B set, I didn't try it a lot, the main difference that I noticed form pastels its that it will stay better on the surface then pastels, it looks like women makeup, I can't get pastels locally so Its simplier to me use this. I buyed it from R10.

Finally i got a bottle of glosscote lacquer, Its better then mr.color and modelers super clear, It airbrush fine and smooth with a nice gloss( i don't even polished it, to make mr.super clear gloss you must polish it, that's crazy), it doesn't even stinks as modelers super clear do.(and it stinks a lot!) Too bad GSI didn't a better product. I thinned it with some mr. color thinner, I wonder if it work better with testor lacquer thinner. I'm gonna to try Floquil hi-gloss too I heard good things about it. Now that I have a clear gloss that I like and got some x-acto blades ( I almost finished them) I'm gonna start with a Hasegawa vf-1, I plan to do a Kakizaki vf-1a, if I ruin it I can do an exploding vf-1 at least just kidding. Just want to do something different from the usual roy/max/hikaru vf-1. I have the PE parts for the vf-1, I would like to use them at least to detail the cockpit, but for the time being I prefer doing the things as simple as possible. I have also bought the testors clear parts cement, I hope its good. Wait for my vf-1 build up topic, I have the new digital camera ready for a lot of pic. I will use a lot of gsi products, and I'll try the new Tamiya weathering set If you are interested.

It's the Diamond Force Vf-17S repainted red by Millia, she use that to fight when City 7 get lost alone in space.

Nobody did a timed fansub for the R1 release? I don't care very much for Ending/opening, anyways what is included in the dvd? The american opening/ending? I can guess how much it sucks.

I hope Bandai will release some good non-henshin/gattai aquarion kit as I will love to have an Aquarion Luna model. The toy looks crappy in these pics especially Mars that sucks bad.

I noticed that Bandai will release Zeta gundam DVD in USA, have they the subs option? are they good? http://www.tmpanime.com/index.php?main_pag...roducts_id=1442

Studio Half Eye It's still in business? I tought it was dead, what a surprise. I wonder if they improved their respective yf-19

Well, a Must-buy.

Well... I entry to you this vf-17s model kit from Kayodo, its a small non-scale resin kit of the Vf-17S its about 10cm high and its sculptured by Yamaguchi Katsuhisa. The retail price was 4000 yen I payed 30$ including shipping on ebay. http://www.hlj.com/product/KYD924 Like the others Kayodo figures it is a very dynamic look model, its not very accurate tough but cool. The resin cast looks beautiful and it should be even very simple to assemble (20 pieces), it include it own base. The box its the smallest mecha kit box I ever seen. High resolution gallery (1024x 768) Low resolution gallery (800 x 600) If the site administrators want to use the pics for the model gallery the have my permission. Just to know, someone know how much rare is It?

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...topic=13589&hl= How long? Roughly 11cm from the nosecone to the exhausts, it's 1/144 so its really small.

Any chance you can post a picture or more detailed explanation of what this slivering is? I've heard about it often but never really understood what it means. Do these MicroSOL/SET products help with making the decal film more transparent? I was dissapointed by my recent Bandai VF-2SS decals. The film is very visible on some of the larger decals. I used a thin coat of future before applying the decals, and the film was immediately visible. A coat of Testor's spray-flat hid them a little, but you can still make them out if you look closely 321063[/snapback] I think that the vf-2ss decals are actually stickers, from what i know bandai don't use waterslide decals but stickers and dry transfer decal, my 1/100 variable vf-19 came with stickers as well. Thanks for the info MW cheng, I'll try trim the decal film the next time, do you do that even with the smallest decal like the classic "no step" or "danger"? I use Mr. mark setter until the decal is flat on the surface, its a pretty good product, for the latest imperfection I use mr. mark softer, they are both good products but the cap brush sucks bad, I suggest to use a good soft brush to who its gonna use them or you will probably ruin the decal. I have microsol as well but I use it just in the end.