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MacrossJunkie

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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie

  1. I assume you mean the bay door cover attachment. What I was saying is that the joint in the yellow area in the pic is fine. It's nice and tight and stays in place. The area with the red oval is where it just flops around regardless of if it is pushed in or pulled out until it clicks. Neither of my 21s do that. They stay in place. Does any one else's kinda flop around or is mine just broken? And yes, both sides have that problem. On different note, I liked that bisecting line in the visor in the line art and since you can hardly see it in the toy, I just drew a line with a pen to make it more visible on mine. I think it helps a lot and doesn't make the visor look so oversized compared to when you couldn't see the line. I also found the white and yellow stickers a little too stark in contrast to the dark gray surface which made it look a lot more sticker-ish. So I took a GM02 gundam marker and stained the stickers to make them look more blended in with the darker areas.
  2. Got my 22 today. I think the color and canopy looks better in person than it did in the pics and it's growing on me more. The plastic came with some scratches and uneveness in texture. a lot of parts are looser than the 21s I have. The legs, arms, wings, vertical stabilizers, and bay doors are all fairly loose in comparison. Particularly the bay covers when you pull them out to give more space between them and the legs in battroid mode. They flop around. Not the part that swivels but where the grey metal piece attaches to the covers and that you pull out until it clicks. That part doesn't seem to be attached firmly to the covers themselves and thus it causes the covers to flop around. The swivel joint in the knee area used in gerwalk is also fairly loose so it's hard to pose in that mode on a smooth surface. The knee joints themselves also don't have as much resistance and makes it harder than the 21 to pose in battroid. Overall, the whole thing just doesn't seem as tight. I'd have to say based on what I got, the first release 21s had much better QC than this 22. I don't know if it's because the molds got worse as they got used more or what. Don't get me wrong, it's not floppy by any means in comparison to the VF-0 releases. Just not as tight as my YF-21s. Strangely, the rear facing head turret on the 22 is a better match in color to the yellow stripes on the 21 and the turret on the 21 is a lighter color closer to the yellow on the 22. So I did a swap between the 22 and one of my 21s and it looks much better now for both.
  3. it's up on Anime Export as well http://www.anime-export.com/u_productpage....rodotti_id=5395
  4. Before or after Gamlin was done with it?
  5. Thanks for the pic of the sheet. Hmmm, judging by stickers 3 and 4, are those hints that the Max and Milia variants are coming?
  6. Great job on modifying the display cases. They look really good. You'll probably want to be careful with using those left over long pieces of glass as shelves. The figures and stuff should be okay, but careful with filling any left over shelves with heavy books. Not sure what the weight tolerance would be before it might start to crack.
  7. Interesting. I wonder what they color changes they would be making. Is it really just color changes and not improvements to the paint applications? I hope the vf-27 or the 171 are coming soon now that they're pretty much done with all they can do with the 25's short of releasing the CF versions (can they be called CF since we never really see even a single one get shot down?) or making incremental improvements.
  8. I still slightly prefer the closed, less bulbous canopy and more alien looking faceplate of the 21, but I'm really liking the color for the -22. Anyone got a pic of the sticker sheet? Also, is the sticker sheet more like the old style still like the 21's or the newer thin type. Awaiting for mine to arrive. Still won't be for a couple more days at least.
  9. I took a few quick shots with the tailfins locked in place and landing gear extended. The lighting isn't that great, but you can see the clearance of the gunpod.
  10. Those larger pics look really good. Frontier is a blight to my wallet. There's just so much Macross stuff coming out ever since that it's getting really hard to decide to save money or to buy and there's still a lot more stuff to come
  11. Canonically, yes. Toy-wise, they couldn't get the gunpods to fit inside the gunpod compartment covers. You might be able to remove the covers and attach the gunpods, but you wouldn't be able to put the covers back on over top of them.
  12. Get whichever you like better. However, personal preference compels me to say go with the 21 also. As good as I think the 11B is, the 21 still edges it out. A couple things detracted from the 11 for me. The cockpit wobbles around unless you put the slider at just the right position and carefully nudge the cockpit in enough so it gets caught on the nubs but not to far down to create a large gap, but even then a slight bump can cause it to pop back out. Also the shield is really loose in both fighter and battroid mode for mine. Otherwise, the rest of the toy is superb. The main con for the 21 seems to be that it can be a pain to position the parts just right for transformations, but with practice, it's not really a big issue. As others have said, the fighter mode alone is probably worth it.
  13. That's not a bad idea. If you wanted to make that gap smaller between the cabinets, I guess you could saw off some of the excess area from the top and base boards.
  14. That's pretty cool. I like how you can deploy it into the cockpit mode. I don't normally collect figures, but I might just get this. But probably not until the price was a little cheaper though.
  15. MacrossJunkie

    Yamato stands

    If you don't want the parts fogging up, you can use Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear as an alternative. As a liquid, it's milky white, but when it dries, it becomes, as its name implies, crystal clear and you can hardly see that anything was put on the parts. This stuff is also used as a glue, so make sure it's completely dry and non-sticky before putting everything together.
  16. It would have helped if they actually made the pilots 1/60 scale in size. The DX pilots are the same size and proportions as the 1/72 scale Isamu that comes with the 1/72 VF-11B + FP.
  17. Wow, that is really lazy of them. It better be because their designers are too hard at work to take time away from the VF-171 or VF-27 to make a decent neck design for the 25S. How does the 1/72 VF-25S model handle the whole head/neck thing? It doesn't seem to suffer from the same problem as the DX version.
  18. The midnight blue in the battroid mode pic looks pretty good actually. I wonder if it's that color or more like the color in the pics for the other modes.
  19. I couldn't agree more. I prefer matte or semi-gloss over plastic gloss. Plastic gloss just looks toyish and cheap to me, especially glossy white plastic. That looks the worst. Gloss paint however doesn't look bad. Another added benefit of the semi-gloss texture the Yamatos have is that fingerprints are practically non-existent. Whereas you can easily see finger prints and other smudges on the old M+ 1/72 toys and the Bandai DXs (the new VF-25s and the old M7 toys).
  20. The only lock I can think of that the SV-51 really needs is a wing lock so the wings don't lose their horizontal position if you turn it upside down. The YF-19 could use a lock for the battroid and GERWALK modes too as it relies entirely on gravity, not even any friction, and an upright position to hold it together which I think is really lame.
  21. The LERX does get in the way of the intake/hip part of the leg. You have to kind of maneuver the hip either in front of it or behind it. It's a minor annoyance. Overall, it has pretty good articulation aside from the often mentioned lack of a double jointed elbow for more-than-90-degree bends. The forearm does have a slight ability to tilt about 20 or so degrees left or right, which is the first time I've seen that in a valk toy. It seems to help the shield face forward more since it's attached to the underside of the arm. Leg articulation is about the same as the VF-1 at around the same points. You can pull the legs a bit further out, similar to the 19, to get a wider range of movement, but it's not as limited as the 19's to begin with. Not sure what you mean by the groin joint collapsing back in like the 19. What part of the 19 collapses back in for you? As far as the 11 goes, the plate that covers the "face" in fighter mode folds down and locks in behind a tab at the point where cockpit folds away from the neck in battroid. This prevents any accidental folding or swiveling of any sort. I'm not sure if that answers your question. The 11 has the overall tightest joints of any Yamato toy I've had so far and even better than my VF-25G which has some issues with the legs sometimes not being able to hold a pose when off the ground or be able to keep its arms up in certain positions.
  22. That thing looks pretty good. I don't normally collect figures, but I'm tempted to make an exception. Only if it is in the $60-80 price range though. You could always print out a shrunk down image of the poster on a color printer and then fold it up into a mini paper airplane yourself At least, that's what I would do.
  23. Yes, but it's only 3/4 the size of what the toy's is. That extra bit makes a huge difference when it comes to the slope of the neck. Look at the other line art angles as well as the ones for the VF-11B and you'll see it should be similar.
  24. And an exclusive web exclusive for the super packs for Alto's 171 EX custom.
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