MacrossJunkie

Cool, I didn't know anyone had even bothered to make a Uraga class carrier. I'm still hoping Bandai at least makes a Battle Frontier though.

I was trying to clear a spot in one of my detolf cabinets to fit in the VF-27, but that gun is just so huge that it makes it difficult. I messed with it and found you can kinda holster it on the back. It won't hold up to playing around with it, but for posing, it works fine.

Geez, you leave out some gerwalk mode pics and people start calling you gerwalk haters Alright fine... here's a couple for you people wanting gerwalk. And for the record, I'm not a gerwalk hater. I'm just gerwalk lazy

I finished putting stickers on mine and did some light weathering as well. Edit: Replaced 2nd battroid pic with different one I liked better.

I wasn't blaming anyone. I was just making an observation that out of the box, it looks really plain with practically no markings whatsoever. I was aware of the color scheme before I got it. After taking the time to panel line it and get some stickers on it, it looks much better now.

I got my 11C today. I was temporaRily impressed that the cockpit didn't wobble around until I remembered about the foam inserts underneath The joints are much tighter than the 11B. It took some effort to move some of the joints. I wish it had more tampo printing out of the box. It looks so plain. That's something Bandai has started to spoil me on with their DX's. Will have to apply stickers when I find the time.

An added benefit of doing a clear coat was that it makes all those out of the box scratches, scuffs and swirls in the plastic invisible. Also, it makes the surface sheen fairly uniform where before there was a very noticable difference between the painted die cast and the different plastics they used. Some of the plastic parts looked quite dull, not very glossy at all.

The ball joint is what the waist joint swivels on. I found the easiest way for me to get the thing out is to make sure the crotch connector is not locked in and hook fingers around the hip bars between the legs and crotch piece. With the other hand, grab the fuselage with fingers over the "walls" that surround the part that will disengage. Then just pull. I'm not sure if I'm describing clearly or not, but that's the best I can do.

I hope these help. There is a clip on the end there that you have to overcome to get it to disengage from the rest of the fuselage. Much like the VF-25 toy, the waist joint itself not very tight. It will stay for the most part, at least for me, but shaking it will knock it loose. You can stick a spare fist up there to give it support (please spare the fisting jokes).

Yep, that's correct. Clear coat -> weathering -> another clear coat. I couldn't find any lilac sort of color in any local hobby stores so I just ended up buying purple and pink Tamiya acrylics and mixed them til I got the desired color. The clearcoat seems dry enough now so I transformed it to battroid and took some shots.

I clear coated over any visible surface (including the shield) that with an acrylic lacquer used for automotive purposes. It came out pretty hard and seemed durable. I didn't disassemble it because I didn't feel it was necessary and also didn't want to bother since the main purpose to to protect the paint. I did take off the hip guns, to spray them separately and get them out of the way. My second coat after I did the weathering was with testor's glosscote, but it doesn't seem all that strong to me. I'll wait a few days to see if it improves. If not, I'll have to go back to the first clear coat I went with. If you want to use future, I'd say go with that. It's safer to use than the acrylic lacquer. I found the lacquer can pick up color from the plastic and cause some color bleed so it was best to do light mists to minimize the chances of that. You'll want to cover any visible surfaces and not just the major ones because the difference between the plastic sheen and a gloss coat is still night and day. Another bonus is I found the clear coat doesn't show fingerprints visibly like the bare plastic does. I've handled it all over while I was doing the weathering and didn't see any fingerprints left on the surface.

I gloss clearcoated mine to prevent the all those markings and paint from scratching off. Speaking which, I thought it was kind of weird that they went through the trouble of making paying attention to detail with all those white markings but then didn't bother to do the ones that they had etched in. So I went ahead and did those myself as well as some paint applications in other areas they had decided not to do. Added some weathering while I was at it. Now I'm just waiting for the second layer of the clearcoat to dry properly before I try to transform it to battroid. I guess in the end, I'm not really all too bummed about the green version because Brera's still looks pretty awesome. I'm just going to get a second one of this some time later.

That crooked 101 really bothers me a lot. It reminds me of the crooked skulls on all those 1/48 Focker VF-1S, but far more blatant. I don't know if the VF-27 is small. More like the SV-51 is just plain enormous at almost 23 meters in length. The VF-27 is at 18.8m which puts it at roughly the same length as the VF-0 at 18.7m. Doing a side by side comparison, its very close to the 1/60 mark. Has anyone found a paint from Tamiya, Testor's, or any other model paint brand that matches that lilac color on the VF-27? I want to touch up some out-of-the-box paint chips as well as fix a chip on the shin that was caused by resting the 27 on the stand that comes with the super pack VF-25's. How crappy is that, huh?

Well, the one you linked there is the non-painted VF-1S, but assuming you meant to link the VF-11C, it's possible that people saw that it was in stock and bought out the remaining stock between the time I posted and the time you checked. Renato's post scares me a bit. I hope mine is at least as problem free as my 11B. To anyone that has theirs already, I assume Yamato made no changes to that cockpit sliding mechanism? That wobbly cockpit/pod in fighter mode is my biggest gripe with the 11B.

As of the time of this writing, Amiami has 10 more available. Well, 9 now since I just placed an order for one. I wanted to take advantage of the half off shipping while I could.

I'm curious to see how slim that YF-21 is and how they handle the arms in fighter mode. But from what little we have to go by in that pic, it looks like the fighter is more accurate than Yamato's rendition with the way the side part of the intake is sculpted and how leading edge of the wing goes all the way to the intake overflow vent.

Wow, what the hell? What's with Bandai and their fetish for exclusives? Seeing how the past exclusives cost an arm and a leg for people outside of Japan, I'm guessing the green 27 will probably cost $200-250+ before shipping. Seriously, it feels like they either hate their international customers or they're just trying to minimize how much money they can make by doing exclusives.

Ouch, that's terrible. It looks like the paint hardly adheres to the plastic. Whatever kind of paint they put on the Quarter's flight deck and other areas seemed to be pretty durable. I was hoping that it would have carried over to the -27 as well. The paint that Bandai uses is shamefully bad. It literally rubs right off from contact. For example, I saw that the triangle on one of the shoulder missile launchers for Luca had been rubbing off and there is nothing that could scrape against it during transformations.

I like the pics in that link. They are probably the best pics I've seen of the DX VF-27 to date. An acrylic clear coat is probably the safest thing to use. It shouldn't react to the paint or plastic.

You can try the "Anime or Science Fiction" section.

When I get mine, I'm definitely going to clear coat the whole thing. I don't want all those little white markings rubbing off either.

Got my shipping notice from AmiAmi this morning as well and like Dobber, will have to wait for it to go across the country to land in New York first for customs. This is my second order from them. Hopefully it won't take 3 weeks for EMS shipping like it did last time for the Quarter.

Cool, thanks for posting up some pics. However, I don't think it's fair to call it more or less the same. Just from observations: The overall sculpt is closer to the source than the 25 was. It seems to have a lot more rather than less articulation with the arms being able to swing upwards and to the side more. It has an added knee swivel, which the 25 completely lacked. The huge gun can be attached to fighter mode with the landing gears down unlike the 25G. The landing gears themselves are longer than the 25's. The hip placement in battroid is much more accurate. Though this is due more to the natural design of the 27 and also due to the bad design of 25 DX, the leg actually allows more movement since the top of it doesn't butt up against the LERX like the 25 does. The legs actually rise up above the back of the fighter correctly unlike the 25. The shield collapses in and doesn't have that gap between the shield and the arm. I'd say that's a fair bit of improvement over the 25.

I'm not surprised they chose to do the quarter over battle frontier, given how much more action and screen time it got. Battle Frontier didn't even disconnect from the city until late in the series and didn't do a transformation til the end. The series was focused pretty squarely on SMS for the most of the action.

Wow, I was just browsing through Hulu today and saw they put this up. I tried to watch an episode, but the dubs were so bad, I couldn't make it through 5 minutes.