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MacrossJunkie

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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie

  1. I got the 3 pack and received them a few days ago. Cosmetically, they do look better particularly with the support arms being one piece and are clear from end to end. However, it seems having the clear tips came at a cost as they don't grip very well compared to the old black rubber ones. I've had several occasions already where I've put VFs on the stands in fighter mode and then see they have slipped or fallen off by the next morning. You can feel the difference in grip just by rubbing your finger over the tips. I tried wiping the tips with some rubbing alcohol to clean off any oils that might be making the tips less grippy, but I think it's just the material used. This limits the poses I can do compared to the old one because I have to pick more level and secure positions to prevent the toys from sliding off over night. Second gripe, though very minor, is that the base is hollow now and much lighter compared to the older bases. This shifts the center of gravity higher. Overall, they're still a good value for a stand. I was very less than pleased with the clear Yamato stands in comparison due to their floppiness and inability to hold up a valk at all, but I'm glad I still have my old flexistands and prefer them over the new style due to the loss of functionality in favor of form.
  2. This game looks interesting. How do they tie in these various universes into the game? I've never played any of these types of games where they tie in a bunch of mecha from various franchises. Do they end up feeling generic? Sort of reminds me of Super Smash Bros where they just grab a bunch of random popular characters and throw them into a game. I'm considering this game or that other Macross F game coming for the PS3 if it does turn out to be a full game release at some point. I still haven't gotten any games for my PS3 yet as I've only been using it to watch movies on Netflix, Blu-Ray, DVD or streaming the media from my PC. That's fine though, because that was my primary reason for getting it. The fact it also plays games is just gravy.
  3. I'm not sure if Home Depot or Lowes would have it or not. You could just buy some online if you can't find it in local stores.
  4. Nope. Future is pretty safe and Yamato's paint is usually fairly durable anyway. As for applying it, if you don't want the canopy frame super shiny, I would suggest going with the small brush method and coat just the clear parts with it. It's not very difficult to avoid the frame. But definitely go with Anime52k8's suggestion of covering it with a bowl, tupperware, or something to prevent dust from landing on it while it's drying and getting stuck on it. It takes about a half hour to dry completely.
  5. Try Target or Walmart. It's sold now as Pledge with Future Shine floor finish. Somewhere in the cleaning products section I think. If you still can't find it, then just order it from a store online. Don't use a cotton swab. They can leave a lot of lint which you don't want on the canopy. Try using a small flat paint brush (ideally, use an airbrush if you have one).
  6. Mine hasn't worsened, unlike the VF-25G and RVF-25 I have. The shoulder joints were not very tight to begin with but the legs are as tight as ever and hold poses very well. The joints for my armored 25S haven't worsened either.
  7. It would provide very... interesting...err weathering effects also.
  8. The face is probably fine where it is. The chest just needs to be angled down a bit like in the line art instead of being posed completely level. Once it's angled down, it shouldn't be blocking the face. It might still be blocking the chin, but that's just because the hump is just so high (much more so than the YF-19 toy).
  9. About time! I've been needing some new stands. It's been a while since I've gotten some. I still have the old style ones with the black rubber tips and some with circular bases.
  10. Oh ok, cool. Sorry, I can't read the Japanese.
  11. Yes, definitely. If they can make it as good as the new VF-19 seemingly is, we'd finally have a fairly definitive and truly awesome version of Isamu's baby. Out of all the versions of the 19, the YF-19 (and by proxy the VF-19A) is my favorite.
  12. Interesting. I just noticed in that particular CAD pic, it looks like the pilot seat is positioned vertically in battroid mode and also managed to have the front console out of the way so that the pilot has a clear path through the top hatch. I wonder how they accomplished that if they did in fact manage to do it.
  13. I already figured the fighter mode would look good, but it's nice to see some visual confirmation so soon. The only thing I can see there that I hope they improve is how the shoulder is a little blocky at the end that attaches to the joint and doesn't fit the rounded shoulder pivot part. I hope the new transformation method is sturdier. The hinge where the neck of the plane bends and gave so many people trouble with cracks, breaks and stress marks was troublesome. Edit - misremembered how the YF-19 toy transformed.
  14. That's the price for the 1/2000 unless that what you were already referring to.
  15. Was it colored like that in the movie? I thought that it was like that because it was a test shot colored like that to show the different pieces.
  16. That looks good even at a smaller scale. I hope they don't end up making this a web exclusive too.
  17. Those are some... interesting colors. Looks like Mylene upgraded to a Konig.
  18. Wow. That sculpt is incredible and so detailed. It makes me want to get one and repaint it with other colors so it doesn't look so clownish when it gets released in its red, white and yellow colors. Then again, maybe the production version will surprise me also and I may take a liking to it. We'll see. Ironically, despite it going to have the clown look, it doesn't have the "tiny clown hands" that the YF release had. The hands look fairly proportionate to the rest of the valk. I'm even more excited about the prospect of a 19F and S variant now (maybe even a P?). I think they will still be able to pull off a good fighter mode. I don't see anything there that stands out that would prevent a good fighter mode. If anything, it might end up better than their earlier YF-19 considering how much more they've improved since the time they released it.
  19. But the energy converting armor doesn't engage until the VF is in battroid mode Besides, aren't the No Step markings there for safety reasons rather than for preventing damage to the aircraft? The "No Step" markings are placed near the edges of the wings and on flaps. If someone were to stand on those areas, they would be risking personal injury should they slip or one of the flaps move.
  20. If all you're looking for is doing panel lines, I'd say to try some Promodellers weathering wash. The results look great. I've tried different things like enamel or acrylic paint diluted with thinner, gundam markers, and the Promodellers, and I have to say I like using the Promodellers weather wash the most as far as results and ease of cleaning up mistakes go. Thinned enamel paint looks good, but the smells can be a bit much and can be hard to remove once dry and can sometimes leave stains even when not dried yet. Gundam markers are easy to apply, but sometimes sink into the plastic or paint immediately. It's especially hard to get off those painted surfaces. I've had a few times where I screwed up and tried to wipe it off immediately but wouldn't come off completely, even with the use of rubbing alcohol. It also looks too artificial, imo. I still use gundam markers, but only very sparingly in certain situations and rarely for panel lining now. For the promodellers wash, I just add a few drops of dishwashing soap into the bottle to break up the tension and it's ready for use. Brush over a surface or just apply directly to a panel line. It flows into the lines and the lines are very fine like the results of thinned enamel paint. The color comes from clay and is easy to just wipe up with a paper towel dampened with water or saliva. There are no harmful vapors to worry about unlike paint thinner and is non-toxic. Also, you can be lazy and leave it on a brush and let it dry, it's easy to clean off by rubbing it under some warm water.
  21. I think he might be referring to this in the customizing forums. VF-22S Canopy Cover Project
  22. Ah ok. No there isn't any way to bend the nosecone outwards. Right from the area where the fuselage separates to reveal the head, the piece underneath is basically a solid piece from the joint to the tip of the nose. There wouldn't be any way to angle out the nose cone. I think it might just be a trick of the camera angle combined with the cockpit moved down to give that impression. Like in this pic, I can see how it might look like it's angled out slightly, but it really isn't. It's just the cockpit section slid down to make the nose shorter, but the side effect is that the cockpit is angled in a little bit.
  23. I think you forgot to slide the cockpit down. I think not sliding it down might stress some parts actually. One time I forgot to slide it down and I had a hell of a time trying to get it corrected. What do you mean by angled?
  24. I'm one of those that applies the stickers, but I try to trim them right to the edge to minimize the sticker look. Since there were no Hasegawa models for the VF-11, I just went by marking conventions used by the YF-19 and VF-1. For the fighter itself, I have "No Step" markings on the wings and canards as shown in the pics, "Danger" above the secondary intakes and overflow outlets and above and below the maneuvering thrusters below the cockpit. "No Step" on the edge of the air brakes, the trailing edge of the shield. I've included a pic of the 11C which I've marked identically (except for the "Rescue" marking which I opted not to apply on the 11C), but should be easier to see against the white. You can see where I've put the other stickers as well. For the FAST packs, I went to the VF-1's for some inspiration. Edit: Added side view to show stickers not visible from the top.
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