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Hey, I just bought that at my local hobby store on Black Friday for 40% off, looks like an amazing build, but I was very disappointed that it didn't have the internal missile bays as an option to be opened up. The fit and engineering looks top notch as well as the crispness of the molding! I thought I'd use the J-20 as a test bed to try out the metallic grey paint scheme that I will later use on this F-35C and I have the older Fujimi F-22 to look forward to eventually.

Unfortunately, the DreamModel 1/72 J-20S (only dual seat model so far - and anything but a dream!) doesn't come with any pilots @505thAirborne. Luckily, I have a pair of excellent pilots from my FineMolds F-4J that I didn't use because I wanted to show off the cockpit - I don't think I'm going to sweat the wrong survival gear or helmet in 1/72 scale (at least that's what I will tell myself to let me sleep.😛 Had to shave down their butts and back to get them to fit though. Strangely, it comes with a nice set of 3D printed seats though as the box is filled with trees for the single seater (and only includes one seat in styrene) and only the top fuselage was different to accommodate the longer tandem canopy. The grey helmets convey the PAAF more than the actual gear on them. The plastic really sucks, its soft and brittle at the same time! The tiny pegs for the canards broke just test fitting them into holes way too small for them, but the way they need to be installed prior to closing the fuselage up means I had to cut them anyways to change the build order so I can sand and paint. The entire thing is not engineered to ease painting in logical steps. I liked that the dual tandem seating of the 2-seater fills out the forward fuselage aesthetically over the single seater J-20. Hey @derex3592, it WAS my original intention for a fast, quick build; "no good intention goes unpunished..." BUT, the ANAL me won out again.... 😛 If I had closed her all up to put in flight mode like I had intended when I bought the kit, I could have succeeded. Unfortunately, when I was researching for images online, I came across this one and it really sold me on trying to get it all splayed out like this (reminded me a bit of Yukikaze)

Well, I had a little time so I thought I'd get back to basics to enjoy the hobby again and build one straight out of the box! I love the shape of the J-20S but there weren't much choice in 1/72, knowing it was not a great kit, I thought I'd close it would be a perfect candidate for the OOB. Unfortunately, the anal side of me saw all the injector pin marks all over the place, I'd either sand (which I hate) or cover them up (the lazy choice!). There's so little photographic reference for this bird out there that I felt I was freed to make up some "business" in the opened internal bays. There was no internal support and the fuselages flattened out into a pancake, so I had to add some internal support to get the cross section up to snuff - so much for the straight forward build! The engine nozzles were pretty bare, luckily I had some leftover (FineMolds F-4J) burner cans that fit pretty well inside for a little more detailing. The landing gears were such a poor/simplified representation that I ended up getting carried away with detailing them up and decided to learn how to add some small lead wires. There wasn't any fan face in the intakes, so I took the lazy way and had it disappear into darkness - so hard to see that far back anyways Finally able to start to close her up. There's going to be a lot of filling and sanding on this one unfortunately before I can get to the more fun painting stages.

The Chuck with the orange supers are just amazing! Is it too late to give up hope that they will release them separately instead of a bundled box?

I'm so sorry to hear the news @pengbuzz. You are amazing at creating works of art from literally nothing (or just masking tape), I hope there is a remission in the future because you deserve the break. Maybe a miracle can be created out of thin air - you have always surprised me regarding what you can do. I don't know much about cancer, but know stage 3 is better than stage 4 so I hope something can be done about it. Stay positive. Best of luck to you and your wife, our thoughts and prayers are with you and I hope to hear good news from you someday soon. Take care.

Yeah, could they have found a harder curved subject to try to do in Lego?!?! I gotta see it from other angles before I make any judgements - however I do love all mini-figures.

Oh Man! I just want the figures but I agree they will be really hard to paint especially the eyes at that scale!!!

Great! After waiting 20yrs I finally start building my old VT-1 with the help of Arbit's 3D sculpted Minmay in the back thinking that they would never do this after so long! Nice, I would have thought they would include the tent or the 4 thrusters under the forward fuselage for this release. They would have gotten my wallet if I didn't just build this last year - argh.

That's looking amazing too!!! Nice subtle mottling underneath that super smooth paint job!

WOW!!! That turned out absolutely amazing. Congrats, looks so good. Why would you need a stand if its on wheels?

Looks amazing! You have me a little scared for this, its in my stash (although its even older and its the first release without Khan's ship - I wished I got that version) and nothing I hate more than sanding. I think it will continue to be relegated to the back of the stash. But yours looks so good - congrats! So sorry to hear about your burns @pengbuzz - take good care of it.

That is amazing @tekering - such fine detailing, is it a resin printer that you're using? You guys are so industrialist and have built so much! All of it looking so great. I've just learned to use our PLA printer at work and that's this 3D Print of the TOS Phaser. It's finally finished, the thing I hate about PLA prints is the thing I hate most in modeling... SANDING. It's so much sanding which is the part of modeling I hate, and there is so much sanding to do on PLA prints. Your paint finish is only as good as the surface you've prepped for it and I learnt the price in my youth of speeding ahead to painting when I've not properly prepped the surface. Anyways, I can finally call my 3D Print TOS Phaser finished with the metal parts I got from eBay. I missed out on the Wand company phaser back then, now that I got my Wand company Tricorder, I felt I had to complete the trifecta of the Tricorder, Communicator and Phaser. It's too bad this is just a static prop and nothing lights up and I have to make pew pew pew sounds with my mouth 😛

omg @pengbuzz - THAT'S AMAZING!!! I can't believe the stuff you create from scratch/masking tape! It's especially nice to find out about your Dad and the background behind your masking tape creations (I've always wondered why you chose that particular medium). It's so much more meaningful. How did you get the clear parts for the canopy to follow such good profiles?

Since I have a bit of time in between shows now, after the VT-1 I decided I would try my hand at a 3D printed prop. Just before we finished my last gig, I had a little time to learn how to 3D print with our printer at work and downloaded and printed a Star Trek TOS Phaser. I just got the amazing Wand Tricorder and I had their Communicator from before, but I didn't learn about them till after their Phaser was sold out and now they are going for crazy prices on eBay. So I thought I could learn 3D Printing and get some decent metal aftermarket upgrades for $150 and get a half-way decent finish to my landing party toys. Unfortunately they don't light up and I have to supply all the pew pew pew sounds Someone mentioned earlier about 3D prints - this is my first try and its a PLA printer that I used (A decent one) but not a Resin with are much better but much more involving in the finishing and drying of the print. Unfortunately, with PLA prints, there are very fine print lines / kind of like stepping which you have to sand away. I HATE SANDING - its the worst part of modeling for me. But I have enough experience to know that the final paint job is all about surface prep - the more time you spend prepping the surface, the better it turns out in the end painting stage. So here are the bits and pieces... Even though the print looks great to the naked eye, I know there's a tone of sanding to be down even before the primer! I find PLA material harder to sand than modeling Styrene plastic, it needs a harder bite and goes through more sandpaper than the softer Styrene/ABS plastics. It does leave a fine dust everywhere that you need to vacuum up (or you'll get killed spraying and having it pick up onto the paint surface) and you should wear a respirator paint mask to make sure you're not breathing this (probably toxic) stuff into your lungs. Here it is primed, I used a Krylon spray can hoping to get something more substantial and robust than my modeling primers because I'm probably going to be handling this more like a toy and looking at it like a model. I would spray, then sand down any blemishes with 2000 and working my way up to 6-8000 grit to get a nice smooth finish and spray again. Hardest part is leaving it alone overnight or a few days to make sure the primer cures before touching it again. Unfortunately, there was another painting disaster where my final clear coat (Mr. Color lacquer) went over top of my Aclad metalizer (phaser handle) which was over an Aclad enamel black gloss which was over Krylon grey primer where the final clear coat, reacted to the enamel black gloss under the Aclad metalizer (I though the Aclad metalizer lacquer was enough of a barrier but it wasn't). I tried to sand it all off to start again, but someone the grey primer underneath it all also was affected and turned gummy and clogged up all my sandpapers and couldn't be removed. I spent days at it and it was still a gummy mess. I ended up starting from scratch on the phaser handle again with another one of my 3D PLA prints, but this time I didn't use the enamel gloss black undercoat! What a mess!!! The weird thing is I used the same colour and when I re-sprayed it without the black gloss undercoat, it turned out too dark. I put in magnets to hold the P1 phaser onto the P2 body and magnets at the base of the stand and base of the phaser handle to I can take it off the base. Here is where it is for now, I am going to have to re-spray the handle with a lighter steel Aclad metalizer colour and I'm missing the top jewel in the watch crown and the acrylic half-moon until I print a scale with power settings graphics to glue on top. It's also missing the darkened plexiglas front which I have to find somewhere and cut into place, but its 80% there after 2 weeks. Oh, I didn't work on the base at all, that's just a straight PLA print and I just sprayed directly onto it without primer or sanding.

Wow that looks amazing @Papa Rat! Congrats. You might want to do a bit of a lighter dry brushing around the edges of the plates/panels and a silvery chipping in the edges to compliment your excellent darker weathering. (The Zentradis weren't known for their upkeep :P) I love the look of these old kits and they really captured what was in my mind as a kid. I love Interstellar @Thom - can't wait to see what you do with that kit! It looks to be a bit of a bear - American kits tend to be gappy (I think we've been spoiled with Japanese kits)