Best paint for Bandai DX plastic? (adhesion/durability)

[David Hingtgen]

My Ozma -29 had its nosecone yellow (top half only), and so the contrasting colors between the halves made it obvious.  "Retro-brite"'d it for days and got it 95% un-yellowed, but it came back already. So I think the only permanent solution is to paint the whole nosecone.  My fear is that the -25/-29 nosecone "tucks into the chest/nose gear bay" during transformation, and it might get scraped off.  I also know that Ozma's  -29 DX plastic seems awfully "repellent" to paint, as it took a ton of effort to panel line and paint just a few tiny details back when it was new.  

I'd like to avoid sanding down the nosecone for adhesion, as I'd prefer to mask around the 'arrow' detail on the nose, and preserve it if at all possible.   

PS---I would much prefer not to airbrush, and just use a spray-can, but would be willing to airbrush if there's some miracle paint that adheres way better than anythin in a can.   

[Big s]

39 minutes ago, David Hingtgen said:

My Ozma -29 had its nosecone yellow (top half only), and so the contrasting colors between the halves made it obvious.  "Retro-brite"'d it for days and got it 95% un-yellowed, but it came back already. So I think the only permanent solution is to paint the whole nosecone.  My fear is that the -25/-29 nosecone "tucks into the chest/nose gear bay" during transformation, and it might get scraped off.  I also know that Ozma's  -29 DX plastic seems awfully "repellent" to paint, as it took a ton of effort to panel line and paint just a few tiny details back when it was new.  

I'd like to avoid sanding down the nosecone for adhesion, as I'd prefer to mask around the 'arrow' detail on the nose, and preserve it if at all possible.   

PS---I would much prefer not to airbrush, and just use a spray-can, but would be willing to airbrush if there's some miracle paint that adheres way better than anythin in a can.   

The best adhesion will be lacquer paints. Definitely the toughest, but also the most dangerous. You could test on a spoon with acrylic and glossing over with a 2k gloss and I’ve heard that can make the some weaker paints much much tougher. Bassically try beating it up and see how much mistreatment it can actually take. And of course if you want a dull or satin finish after you can add that on top

[pengbuzz]

5 hours ago, David Hingtgen said:

My Ozma -29 had its nosecone yellow (top half only), and so the contrasting colors between the halves made it obvious.  "Retro-brite"'d it for days and got it 95% un-yellowed, but it came back already. So I think the only permanent solution is to paint the whole nosecone.  My fear is that the -25/-29 nosecone "tucks into the chest/nose gear bay" during transformation, and it might get scraped off.  I also know that Ozma's  -29 DX plastic seems awfully "repellent" to paint, as it took a ton of effort to panel line and paint just a few tiny details back when it was new.  

I'd like to avoid sanding down the nosecone for adhesion, as I'd prefer to mask around the 'arrow' detail on the nose, and preserve it if at all possible.   

PS---I would much prefer not to airbrush, and just use a spray-can, but would be willing to airbrush if there's some miracle paint that adheres way better than anythin in a can.   

Make sure you clean the plastic before painting; I recommend alcohol on a q-tip so you can carefully wipe it down.

 

[Vifam7]

For best adhesion, go with enamel paint. Once cured, it's also pretty tough. The only issue with enamel paint being that it takes quite a long time to cure. Testors/Model Master enamels can sometimes take up to a week to cure.

[Big s]

49 minutes ago, Vifam7 said:

For best adhesion, go with enamel paint. Once cured, it's also pretty tough. The only issue with enamel paint being that it takes quite a long time to cure. Testors/Model Master enamels can sometimes take up to a week to cure.

I’m always afraid of enamels on toys, because if it accidentally gets on the wrong plastics, it can turn into a perma goo layer that stays forever sticky. I’ve also never had enamel stick as well to a project as with lacquer. Still usually better than basic acrylics though 

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

Avoid going over any existing paint/tampo with alcohol, most paints that companies (now a days) use on toys are acrylic base. The alcohol will wear or take the coat/paint off.

[pengbuzz]

6 minutes ago, PsYcHoDyNaMiX said:

Avoid going over any existing paint/tampo with alcohol, most paints that companies (now a days) use on toys are acrylic base. The alcohol will wear or take the coat/paint off.

That's why I said to carefully wipe it down; 91% alcohol is especially notorious for that.

Thanks for mentioning it specifically though, PsYcHoDyNaMiX; I might not have been clear enough.

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

9 hours ago, PsYcHoDyNaMiX said:

Avoid going over any existing paint/tampo with alcohol, most paints that companies (now a days) use on toys are acrylic base. The alcohol will wear or take the coat/paint off.

Also the same goes for if you happen to use Windex (contains ammonia) over acrylics.

[Radioguy]

In deference to @David Hingtgen, if I'm threadjacking here, let me know, and I'll create a new thread, but the title of this one just seemed too on the nose for me to resist adding a related question...

Has anyone successfully dyed the nylon DX joints other colors?

I ask that, because it was told to me that those parts of a DX would not take any paint if a custom repaint were attempted, and their visibility in their cast color would ruin the appearance if the repaint were in a contrasting color. (Specifically, I had asked someone to customize the recent VF-1J reissue in the Revell AXOID (maroon/black) livery.)

If there has been success on that front in relation to the DX parts, I would love to know. I'd still love to own a proper AXOID VF-1J in my lifetime.

[David Hingtgen]

Knowing Bandai's love of hollow expanding pins in their joints, I imagine almost all DX's have some degree of cracking (even on a microscopic level), and dyes will immediately soak in and make the cracks more visible.  (and possibly exacerbate/weaken them).  

[Big s]

On 8/8/2025 at 10:31 PM, Radioguy said:

In deference to @David Hingtgen, if I'm threadjacking here, let me know, and I'll create a new thread, but the title of this one just seemed too on the nose for me to resist adding a related question...

Has anyone successfully dyed the nylon DX joints other colors?

I ask that, because it was told to me that those parts of a DX would not take any paint if a custom repaint were attempted, and their visibility in their cast color would ruin the appearance if the repaint were in a contrasting color. (Specifically, I had asked someone to customize the recent VF-1J reissue in the Revell AXOID (maroon/black) livery.)

If there has been success on that front in relation to the DX parts, I would love to know. I'd still love to own a proper AXOID VF-1J in my lifetime.

I have heard of dyes working, but sometimes having a bleeding affect on lighter colored parts around them

[Radioguy]

1 hour ago, David Hingtgen said:

Knowing Bandai's love of hollow expanding pins in their joints, I imagine almost all DX's have some degree of cracking (even on a microscopic level), and dyes will immediately soak in and make the cracks more visible.  (and possibly exacerbate/weaken them).  

Well, if the dye is darkening it (white or grey to maroon), I'd imagine it would pass. Dye weakening nylon is new to me though. It does that?

1 hour ago, Big s said:

I have heard of dyes working, but sometimes having a bleeding affect on lighter colored parts around them

Again, in my case, it would be a light grey turned maroon surrounded by either the same color or black parts. I think we're good if dyeing would work.

Anyhow, if anyone here has done it to Bandai nylon parts, I'd love to hear about it!

[pengbuzz]

3 hours ago, David Hingtgen said:

Knowing Bandai's love of hollow expanding pins in their joints, I imagine almost all DX's have some degree of cracking (even on a microscopic level), and dyes will immediately soak in and make the cracks more visible.  (and possibly exacerbate/weaken them).  

This leads me to question the use of plastic parts in the joints at particularly high-stress points: many of them are supporting quite a bit of mass/ weight or are under considerable tension/ strain when moved.

As for the dyes being used on plastics: it depends upon the dye and the process. Some dyes can inherently weaken the plastic based on their composition, while heat and other processes can disrupt the polymerization chains in the plastics. Even dye concentration in the wrong amount can be an issue, as dyes are a chemical and plastic is a complex mix of chemicals based on the polymerization of petroleum products.

For any dye attempt, I would recommend trying to test it first to see if it will create an issue later on.

[Radioguy]

13 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

This leads me to question the use of plastic parts in the joints at particularly high-stress points: many of them are supporting quite a bit of mass/ weight or are under considerable tension/ strain when moved.

As for the dyes being used on plastics: it depends upon the dye and the process. Some dyes can inherently weaken the plastic based on their composition, while heat and other processes can disrupt the polymerization chains in the plastics. Even dye concentration in the wrong amount can be an issue, as dyes are a chemical and plastic is a complex mix of chemicals based on the polymerization of petroleum products.

For any dye attempt, I would recommend trying to test it first to see if it will create an issue later on.

Sadly, for me, I have the one VF-1J to commit, and Carpal Tunnel to boot, so I won't be the one to try.

I had been in contact with the guy who did that fab DX VF-1S Jetfire custom to hire him to do that 1J reissue up as AXOID, and he was the one to state the joints (some of which are exposed) won't take paint, and will basically ruin the appearance. That is, unless dye was used for those parts, and he had yet to ever try that on a custom. So, here I am. 

Edited August 12 by Radioguy