fulcy Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 Well, I know it's been a while, and truthfully, I should have more done than this. But life has a way to throw off all well laid plans (as do girlfriends), so this is the update for now. Yesh, the project isn't dead. However, the shoulder armor pieces you see above? I've resigned myself to the fact that I'm going to have to scrap them and start over. I built the original frames for them the wrong way, and they resulted in parts that weren't square, and the inner surfaces didn't mate well - though, it could also just be my anal nature rearing it's ugly head again - who knows. Hopefully I can polish off a good portion of the rebuild this weekend.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danster69 Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 What is the final suppose to look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007-vf1 Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 Fulcy; how the heck do you add that detail on??? looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulcy Posted November 1, 2003 Author Share Posted November 1, 2003 Here's the lineart for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidkorrupt Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 (edited) HAHHAHA. what a dick!! you actually did it. "here is my beatiful insane work" "i am going to tear it up" i was joking aroudn when i told you to do that, lol. damn rob that is something to be proud of. curse your perfectinist nature. will you ever finish anything nowdays? the symmetry and the precise lines of the panels are indeed a sight to behold. rock on friend. in your vf-1ag and with your new gal. F michigan Edited November 1, 2003 by kidkorrupt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danster69 Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 Here's the lineart for it... I dont remeber seeing this in the cartoon. Is there a new series? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JValk Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 once you complete this guy, i bet it would win custom awards even in japan - i've never seen a scratch build of this ever. looking forward to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JELEINEN Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 I dont remeber seeing this in the cartoon.Is there a new series? I believe that one picture is all that exists of it. It never got past the concept stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danster69 Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 So is this armored Valk official or someone made it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JELEINEN Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 So is this armored Valk official or someone made it up? Some dude named Kawamori made it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danster69 Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 So is this armored Valk official or someone made it up? Some dude named Kawamori made it up. can i get a second on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GobotFool Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 So is this armored Valk official or someone made it up? Some dude named Kawamori made it up. can i get a second on this? Yeah that image was taken from a book of his line art. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedi Knight Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 So is this armored Valk official or someone made it up? Some dude named Kawamori made it up. "...some dude....." I love the way that sounds!! Yeah, this image is from Kawamori's Macross Design Works book, that came out last year. It is an AWESOME book, and I highly recommend it to any Macross and/or mecha fan. It should still be fairly easy to find. Anyway, I can't wait to see more than a shoulder piece, especially considering how great that one single part looks, or did look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 DAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN!!! I CANT SEE THE PICTURES!! Please pleeeeese somebody email them to me pleeeeeeese! spolil@vip.sina.com Anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otaru Ikari Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 DAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN!!!I CANT SEE THE PICTURES!! Please pleeeeese somebody email them to me pleeeeeeese! spolil@vip.sina.com Anybody? Email sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 DAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN!!!I CANT SEE THE PICTURES!! Please pleeeeese somebody email them to me pleeeeeeese! spolil@vip.sina.com Anybody? Email sent THANK YOU Otaru Ikary! I reall apreaciate your kindness!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulcy Posted November 1, 2003 Author Share Posted November 1, 2003 Fulcy; how the heck do you add that detail on??? looks great Well, the way i did it - I first built the base shoulder armor. Then, I took a thin sheet of styrene (.010" thick), and used some stainless steel hyperdermic needle tubing to punch holes in it. Then I used a sharp exacto knife to cut between the holes, and remove the material I wanted to remove. After all that was done, I took the piece of styrene, and carefully aligned and glued it onto the base shoulder armor.kinda tedious, but it's the best way to add details similar to panel lines to a piece, instead of carving away at the base part. Thanks guys for the positive feedback so far - yeah Jason, f michigan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7725 Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 (edited) Well, the way i did it - I first built the base shoulder armor. Then, I took a thin sheet of styrene (.010" thick), and used some stainless steel hyperdermic needle tubing to punch holes in it. Uhm, Fulcy.. you might want to invest in a pin vise. I think it's a lot safer then stabbing hyperdermic needles into pla-plate. Not to mention I rather you not get too much practice in stabbing hyperdermic needles into anything. Anyways. After seeing the work here, I have got to get more practice in scratchbuilding outside of the 28mm range. That you are willing to toss what I would have considered great work is really depressing. EDIT: Oh, BTW, you might want to steal an idea from Yamato and use their slip-cover ideas for the should missile pods. That might make your life a bit easier. Edited November 1, 2003 by Lynx7725 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulcy Posted November 1, 2003 Author Share Posted November 1, 2003 (edited) Well, the way i did it - I first built the base shoulder armor. Then, I took a thin sheet of styrene (.010" thick), and used some stainless steel hyperdermic needle tubing to punch holes in it. Uhm, Fulcy.. you might want to invest in a pin vise. I think it's a lot safer then stabbing hyperdermic needles into pla-plate. Not to mention I rather you not get too much practice in stabbing hyperdermic needles into anything. Anyways. After seeing the work here, I have got to get more practice in scratchbuilding outside of the 28mm range. That you are willing to toss what I would have considered great work is really depressing. EDIT: Oh, BTW, you might want to steal an idea from Yamato and use their slip-cover ideas for the should missile pods. That might make your life a bit easier. nah, pin vises are too inaccurate. I tried to make the details originally with a pin vice, but I found the drill bit wandered too much when drilling through the plastic. The hyperdermic needle is VERY safe, unless I am hitting it while on my lap - just put the piece of plastic on a wood block, line up the needle where you want it, and tap the end twice with a hammer, and viola! Instant, clean hole. What do you mean by slip cover idea? For what part of the shoulder armor - or are you saying that I should add ALOT more detail, such as internal thruster parts and such, and make the parts visible by way of a removeable cover? Edited November 1, 2003 by fulcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaolian Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 (edited) If anyone wants to see more line art, here is the conceptual renderings based on it. I am curently in the process of refining them based on the 1/48 so they will be a bit more accurate. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...f=22&t=322&st=0 Looking Good so far Fulcy! Have the drawings been of any help? Edited November 1, 2003 by Kaolian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechamaniac Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 Hey Rob, have you thought of this? Removable/replaceeable turret. So, the top of the armor (covering the plane) would be more or less flat. You could swap out the turret for other weapons packs, like missile pods, or commo equipment etc. As long as the replacement parts were molded up a bit, you would keep the contour of the overall back piece, so it would not appear to be flat. Hey, if the Regult pods can have interchangeable missile cluster, and cannon variants, why not the valk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 These pics are from the thread in the old forums, which are down right now. If these are already uploaded somewhere else, let me know so I can link them instead of taking up more space. I scanned through the magazines but didn't see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 (edited) another edit: I like this one better Edited November 1, 2003 by tom64ss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted November 1, 2003 Share Posted November 1, 2003 more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightning Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 that looks great! it's nice to see more pics of the model representation of it, makes a good reference point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robokochan Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 Could someone please, please repost the pics. I can't see them either Rob MN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 Could someone please, please repost the pics. I can't see them either Rob MN Here you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 second one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 Last one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robokochan Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 Thanks! Man those look great! Why in the world would you want to start over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7725 Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 nah, pin vises are too inaccurate. I tried to make the details originally with a pin vice, but I found the drill bit wandered too much when drilling through the plastic. Well, normally I would notch a small mark as a guide for the pin vise, so I rarely have the problem you mentioned (the wandering pin vise). But for 0.01" pla-plate, I guess this is overkill.. The hyperdermic needle is VERY safe, unless I am hitting it while on my lap - just put the piece of plastic on a wood block, line up the needle where you want it, and tap the end twice with a hammer, and viola! Instant, clean hole. Uhm, okay, if you say so.. As long it's not in your lap, you do need to think about the family jewels. What do you mean by slip cover idea? For what part of the shoulder armor - or are you saying that I should add ALOT more detail, such as internal thruster parts and such, and make the parts visible by way of a removeable cover? Hmm. If you have seen the 1/60 GBP thread, the general opinion was that Yamato had the shoulder missile pods mounted on a slip cover which will go over the existing shoulders, to give the missile pods more stability. So instead of a missile pod C-clamping the shoulder, we have a missile pod of a false shoulder structure which will in turn go over the actual shoulder, like a glove over your hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulcy Posted November 2, 2003 Author Share Posted November 2, 2003 nah, pin vises are too inaccurate. I tried to make the details originally with a pin vice, but I found the drill bit wandered too much when drilling through the plastic. Well, normally I would notch a small mark as a guide for the pin vise, so I rarely have the problem you mentioned (the wandering pin vise). But for 0.01" pla-plate, I guess this is overkill.. The hyperdermic needle is VERY safe, unless I am hitting it while on my lap - just put the piece of plastic on a wood block, line up the needle where you want it, and tap the end twice with a hammer, and viola! Instant, clean hole. Uhm, okay, if you say so.. As long it's not in your lap, you do need to think about the family jewels. What do you mean by slip cover idea? For what part of the shoulder armor - or are you saying that I should add ALOT more detail, such as internal thruster parts and such, and make the parts visible by way of a removeable cover? Hmm. If you have seen the 1/60 GBP thread, the general opinion was that Yamato had the shoulder missile pods mounted on a slip cover which will go over the existing shoulders, to give the missile pods more stability. So instead of a missile pod C-clamping the shoulder, we have a missile pod of a false shoulder structure which will in turn go over the actual shoulder, like a glove over your hand. Yeah, I didn't notch anything on the styrene - just drew some lines on it with a pencil and then punched away. And, if the thing that's scaring you is the fact I said hyperdermic needle, then let me explain myself. All I am using is some very small, very thin walled stainless steel tubing from McMaster Carr. You get this tubing in 36" lengths, and I go and cut a 1" section off of it. Then, I take a rotary bit in my dremel, and bevel the inside of the edge I am going to use to cut with, so it cuts a little easier - but even with this bevel, it is no where near as sharp as a hyperdermic needle - and anyway, if it was as sharp as a hyperdermic needle, it would get dull rather quickly, after a few hits with the small hammer. I've found this method to be far easier to use in thin styrene - doesn't damage the surrounding styrene, and leaves a clean, crisp hole where you want it. As far as the shoulder cover is concerned? I see no need for it (Lightning explained it to me). It looks like they are using it, to make it look like the shoulder is actually larger than it is, so that the shoulder armor 'fits' better, and is more accurate to the lineart. Pfffftt - that seems like a poor solution to that problem - I already have ideas on how to compensate for that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulcy Posted November 2, 2003 Author Share Posted November 2, 2003 Thanks!Man those look great! Why in the world would you want to start over? I'm starting over, because the base I am building on top of was built totally wrong - the pieces that I used to make the boxes weren't the same width, and as a result, when I put the two parts together, there are gaps. I've tried three times to fix this problem, and each time it's just gotten worse - as it stands right now, the back of the shoulder armor, where the thruster mounts, is about .04 wider than the front most tip of it. Not to mention the fact that the edges don't mate well, and it's caused me to reevaluate, and start over... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidkorrupt Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 I'm starting over, because the base I am building on top of was built totally wrong - the pieces that I used to make the boxes weren't the same width, and as a result, when I put the two parts together, there are gaps. I've tried three times to fix this problem, and each time it's just gotten worse - as it stands right now, the back of the shoulder armor, where the thruster mounts, is about .04 wider than the front most tip of it. Not to mention the fact that the edges don't mate well, and it's caused me to reevaluate, and start over... send me your scraps =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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