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1/48 VF-1D instructions


captain america

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Cap, can you give some battroid transformation instructions?.

When I did my test fit (and also going by Haterist's post) it looks like the head mount plate doesn't have much to attach to in battroid.

Also, what do you recommend to tighten up the head pivot (up and down) on the turret axels?

Also, it may help in your instructions if you give some glue points for the fuselage halves. Did you glue along the length of the fuselage? And if so, how well does it hold up when you transform, or open the front landing gear? On the standard VF, the gap increases between the fuselage halves when you open the front gear, or when you transform.

Edited by Mechamaniac
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Cap, can you give some battroid transformation instructions?.

Yamato already provided transformation instructions with the VF-1. The sequence is literally the same. I've tried it, and there are no transformation issues/problems

When I did my test fit (and also going by Haterist's post) it looks like the head mount plate doesn't have much to attach to in battroid.

I don't quite understand what you mean, can you elaborate please?

Also, what do you recommend to tighten up the head pivot (up and down) on the turret axels?

A dab or two of CA glue at the friction points. Let cure. This will increase tension and alleviate floppiness.

Also, it may help in your instructions if you give some glue points for the fuselage halves.  Did you glue along the length of the fuselage?

Yes.

  And if so, how well does it hold up when you transform, or open the front landing gear?

Quite well if handled gently. Please read disclaimer

On the standard VF, the gap increases between the fuselage halves when you open the front gear, or when you transform.

That's cos it hasn't been glued together properly. I barely tacked both halves of mine together, and they hold fine.

341755[/snapback]

Edited by captain america
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I know the transformation sequence is the same, my question about Battroid was mainly regarding the head mount plate.

On the standard VF-1, the head plate locks down in between the ends of the groove in the bottom of the fuselage (the head groove). This locks the head into place.

With the D, since the upper half of the fuselage (part 10) is longer than the bottom half of the fuselage, the head mount cannot lock down between the ends of the groove in the bottom of the fuselage.

So, the head sits on a side to side pivot caused by the rod portion of part 4 (see steps 20 and 21).

Hope that helps. Thanks!

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True, the head has no locking mechanism in Fighter mode... Or Battroid, for that matter.

The solution to this is actually rather simple, even if it's perhaps imperfect in the grand scheme of things: as mentioned in the instructions, you can (and should) use a small amount of CA glue on the neck joint parts: placing a dab on all the areas that have friction or rub against each other. When the CA glue dries, it is both hard, and slightly increases the volume of the contact area, thus increasing "tightness" and thus prevents the parts from flopping-around.

As you can see in the pic below, the head litteraly "hangs" over nothingness. Without the tightness in the joints, the head would just flop backwards into the chasm below. Tightness is the key.

post-632-1130989016_thumb.jpg

Edited by captain america
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Wow.  Very detailed.  Too bad I am not getting this. :(

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You're not? :(

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Yeah, he doesn't have a spare valk to customize... :rolleyes:

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Actually, I am not sure about the sturdiness and the the gummy canopy and such. No insult to you Capt. You did a hell of a job and you need to be commended. It is that I need time to make it. The cooking of the canopy and sand papering requires a lot of time. (I am a perfectionist since I am not real happy with my VF-1A TV max and I want to start over. :( )The time needed for me to work on it is not there. I just moved and working 50 plus hours a week with a 2 hour drive round trip to go to my parent's home and not to mention I will be in China for weeks or months...

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Well that is good news.  Still... Maybe I need to comission Kurt or someone to do the job.

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That can be arranged. Let me know if you are interested.

Capt - I am going to try and cure the canopy in the oven this weekend. I hope it works.

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Is there an online source for metric drill bits this size?

I look up "metric drillbits" but get only full sets that are upwards of $20.

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Just use English drill bits. You can get these any decent hardware store, like Ace.

2.7mm = 0.1063" = roughly #36 drill bit

1.93mm = 0.076" = roughly #48 drill bit

You can get these individually for $3 to $4 each.

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wow,nice job on the kit & instructions.you can really see that you spent alot of time with the details on this.is that andy's donor 1J in your instructions? i can't wait to see your 1D kit next time i visit andy.your custom skills make me wish i had a spare valk to convert :)

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"vlenhoff",forum member "mechamaniac" has this kit from the cap.he was the 1st to get it i believe.the valk you see in the caps instructions in the beggining of this thread is actually the 1J he gave him to try the kit out on.he now has it completely finished at home.pm him,he can really give you a 1st hand opinion on it & maybe show you some pics of it finished :)

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Actually, the Cap is the now owner of the VF-1J I donated for the conversion process. What can I say?, [godfather]He made me an offer I don' refuse[/godfather] :lol:

However, I did get both the pigmented, and the non-pigmented versions of this kit, and they are AWESOME.

You will not be disappointed if you snag one. Unfortunately, my conversion is sort of stalled right now since I ran out of paint, and had to order more. That's what I get for being a Tamiya junkie, and picking an obscure-ass color... :lol:

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Anyone know if you can use the metal pincs form teh toy instead of plastic rod?  Seems more durable and more convient for my bc/ noone around me sells styrene stock...

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The only pin you will have to provide is the one for the backpack hook. All other pins are the stock pins.

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