A sticky question...

[drkstar00]

I'm completely new to the whole modeling thing, and the problem I seem to be having is finding a glue that doesn't dissolve plastic, or goop everywhere.

...and I've got a little Ban Dai anniversary macross kit that I don't want to scew up.

Sooo then- anyone have glue suggestions, or special 'tricks of the trade' they'd like to share?

Thanks.

(And please excuse the super-newbee question.)

Edited October 2, 2005 by drkstar00

[RT junkie]

I've grown quite fond of the Testors model cement for plastic kits. Not the tube stuff, but the stuff in a bottle that you apply with a brush, and has the viscosity of water. There's probably lots of other brands of the same chemical out there, but it's what my local hobby shop carries. While it does disolve plastic, that is what makes it so good. You can brush a little between the parts, then squeeze them together with enough pressure to just form the slightest bead. Once it cures, you remove the bead, and it has led to a lot less time spent filling and sanding down the seams. Also, because it melts the plastic at the joint together, the result is very strong.

I'm sure there's a lot more experienced modelers out there that have much better advise than me. You might want to peruse the how to build models section of the forum..... there's probably a thread that is just what you're looking for.

[Grayson72]

Actually several of the more experienced modelers here like the testors goopy tube stuff. I use it for parts I really want to secure the seam on. If enough glue goops out when I press the two halves together then i can just sand off whatever is left so I don't have to fill anymore to get rid of those pesky seamlines.

For finer detail buy a bottle of the really liquid glue (looks like water) but make sure it has a fine needle type applicator. The brush thing is still to inaccurate for fine work.

Hope that helps

Edited October 2, 2005 by Grayson72

[Less than Super Ostrich]

I use tenax on my polystyrene kits. Some like the goopy testors orange tube and then sand off the excess. I just rather use putty/filler/Mr. Surfacer for that instead.

[Ido]

My favorite ones are

Tenax 7r(welding): If you really needs strenght, it evaporate so quickly that it can't do a lot of damage.

Mr. cement S(welding type), not strong like tenax but its really easy to use, when I need precision and strenght.

Mr.cement (adhesive) Quite strong for an adhesive glue, but IMO the brush its too big for 1/72 kits, I plan to replace it with mr.cement s smaller brush.

Microweld(non toxic adhesive/welding): I use that on pre-painted part cause it is safe on mr.color paints, or where I need a very precise and clean application.

Micro krystal clear/ testor clear parts cement: for clear plastic parts

ps

Don't be scared by welding cement, I found it a lot safer then adhesive glues and with that you can be sure the parts will not split apart.

[MechTech]

FIRST, be sure to CAREFULLY wash the parts in a water and mild detergent solution. Use a container or cover the sink drain so you don't lose anything! The plastic molders use a wax that retards glue adhesion. The detergent washes it off.

If you're afraid of being a total failure with gooping and getting glue laiden finger prints everywhere, CLAMP the parts together as they should go and THEN let the thin "welding" cement flow into the seams (use sparingly- a little goes a long way).

Rubber bands AROUND parts will guide the glue wherever they touch IF you use too much. Plus you can ensure the parts are positioned just right BEFORE you commit to gluing (you can also sand the joints with FINE sandpaper on a flat surface where possible to assist adhesion and stop large seams.) Check the joints and fit because some models will have molded marks leftover on them. These stick up and make large seams or gaps. Don't assume your parts are "good to go" from the factory. Many will be sitting here nodding their heads going "preach it brother." If you are not sure, practice on sprue tree parts. File some sprue (plastic parts runners) flat in areas and apply the glue. Get used to the set times and pressures needed to make your brand(s) work properly and be familiar to you.

I personally use both thick and thin glues. I use the thick glue for the smaller parts, or ones that are difficult to clamp. Use white glue for the windshields and clear parts if you like - it's water soluble! ;-)

Like any art, it's going to take some getting used to and practice.

[drkstar00]

Wow- these are great tips.

Thank you so much guys...

[Duymon]

I use two different glues. Mainly for small parts and such I use Tamiya liquid cement (with the brush). I use it simply because it sticks really really fast since its acetone based.

FOr really really large joints that need to be glued, I use testors liquid cement (non toxic type) that comes in a black bottle with its own pipette applicator. It works much better for me than the tamiya for big parts simply beacuse the tamiya reacts way too fast and by the time you finish brushing the end of one piece the starting end is already reacted and non-sticky. Super glue is a last resort for some crazy pieces.

[haro genki]

I found the Testors tubes to be the most effective for me. I use toothpicks to apply it in tight areas (sometimes even trim the pick to make it sharper and thinner)

I tried using the liquid cements, but I never had much luck with them. I'd always end up with seams.

[armentage]

Testor's liquid cement is very nice. It's a welder, but a very gentle one - far more gentle than the Testor's orange tube.

I used the orange testor's for years. If you're not careful, you can really mar up your model with stray drops of glue. Once it starts to get too thick, you better toss out the tube - you start to get strands of glue that refuse to go away. The loose strands will end up maring your kit something awful!

Lately I've been using the newer blue testors tube. It smells better and seems to be more gentle. I haven't seen it actually mar a model, and it seems to okay on paint.

The liquid cement is fantastic. It's not as strong as the tube, but it gets the job done VERY well for small pieces. It's easy to dab it in to small crevices.

[Ido]

I read that GSI(gunze) should release a new mr.cement called "Mr. cement Limonen", probably similar to gaianotes "Limo-chan" cement, I wonder if they are the same as Microscale "Micro-weld" non toxic orange smell cement.

http://www.gaianotes.com/index.html