Chronocidal
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I believe a lot of those are supposed to be thruster exhaust ports, but it's difficult to say. Bandai hasn't been exactly consistent with marking those across their assorted releases, even outside of the 171s.
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The Unlicensed Third Party Transformers Thread
Chronocidal replied to slaginpit's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
You know what I could deal with for a better Silverbolt? Make him into a space shuttle. Big boxy construct that has plenty of room for everything. I'm also not attached to the characters origins though, so that's just me. -
I think the biggest issue with it may have actually been the color? It had some decent ideas, despite the heavy partsforming. Part of me actually prefers the proportions of the old Hi Metal Fire Valk over the Yamato design in fighter mode, just because the different angle of the wing leading edge made the nose look a bit longer. The Yamato design blows it out of the water entirely in every other way though.
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The Unlicensed Third Party Transformers Thread
Chronocidal replied to slaginpit's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
I seriously cannot imagine anyone succeeding at making Silverbolt anything other than a Concorde lugging a giant robot in box-form underneath. If someone ever proves me wrong, I'll be first on line to get one, but I'm not getting my hopes up. -
Impressive, but yeah, the head lasers need replacement badly. They look more like antennas than cannon barrels.
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See, the fun mess you introduce then is which way do the missile markings face? If the mounting lugs are 90 degrees off from the reaction warning signs, the dual mounting in the third DYRL screenshot would have them on top and bottom. The Yamato/Arcadia mounting gets around this by just mounting them right side up in a cradle, so they all still face upright. Bandai just ignores this entirely on the HMRs, and mounts the dual missiles sideways, with the stripes still painted to show from the side. I think the Hasegawa kits would have you do the same, but you get to pick which side to put the decals, so you could stick them showing from above and below if you wanted. Also, looking at the instructions for the super 1/48 super M&M kits, they do use three individual pylons for the reaction missiles. I don't remember if they come with the box launchers though.
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So it's literally both, because hand-drawn animation is funny that way. My personal preference is to lean toward the bottom arrangement, just because of the much higher detail involved in those frames of animation, but it does look silly with a single inner missile mounted. I'll just need to mix and match the loadouts to adhere to what was seen on-screen.
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Random question.. is it just me (and possibly a browser issue), or does posting pictures cause the post to appear as double length with blank space equivalent to all the pictures posted?
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So I went looking through SDFM, and episode 27 pretty much shows all of the VF-1s carrying three individually mounted reaction missiles. DYRL on the other hand shows everyone using a paired mount on the outer hardpoint, but with one of the boxy launchers on the inner one. So while the arrangement with the dual mount on the outer hardpoint is shown being used, it's not used with a single missile on the inner one. I don't think that particular arrangement has ever been shown in either DYRL or the series.
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You're not the only one, I always put the heavier ones on the inside. I think due to the hardpoint placement though, they fit better with the twin mount on the outer one. The wider mount on the inner point restricts how far you can sweep the wings. Going by some sources though, I think they're actually supposed to be on three individual pylons, which would give the VF-1's wing five hardpoints, instead of the normal two. I think the Hasegawa kits might provide for that.
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Yep, I've taken that apart myself, and there's no reason for that to be two separate pieces. It goes around a single pin at both ends.
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Given how few of these we've seen, I'm not sure it's actually a problem with those? It's clearly not like the VF-1's shoulder issues, or everyone would have been screaming for replacement parts. Also, that pin only goes through one piece on each end, so there's nothing to misalign. I think the separation joint you're seeing is just a mold line. If I'd seen more break like that? Yes, I'd call it a bigger problem. But I've seen more VF-25s with broken die-cast hip bars than these, and we know that those are caused by faulty metal casting. There's nothing to say that same kind of mold flaw can't happen with plastic. This isn't to downplay the seriousness of the break, because yes, it sucks. But I don't see any kind of trend in the breakage that should have everyone digging out their valks in a panic to inspect them. Even if it is a wider problem though, I think we've got plenty of skilled modelers that can build a replacement for sale on Shapeways. I think the bigger issue will be disassembling the valk to replace that part, because the VF-19s are snapped, screwed, and glued ten ways from Tuesday.
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Isn't that just a repainted Hayate though? The other shots had blue paint showing through the gray on the arms.
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So, fun little discovery, I didn't realize it from the promotional images.. Roid's Elvis-valk, the white 262? It's entirely pearlized. The whole thing is so glitzy and overdone it's hilarious. I can't wait to mix and match pieces between the various kits and come up with a unique design.
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Bandai's manufacturing quality can't fix some of the pants-on-head stupid decisions their design teams make. For all the assorted flaws my Yamato and Arcadia valks may have had, I've been able to fix all of them myself. In comparison, I have a box full of disintegrated Bandai valk parts that I can't do a thing with, because they're broken into little shards, and are relegated to acting as spares for the remaining displayable ones. They don't tend to break so much as flat out explode. But anywho, I don't need to derail this further. This discussion's been done to death and a half. Anyhow, as far as the Arcadia Milia I received goes, it seems to be just about identical to the old Yamato one, minus the screw covers. I removed the stickers off the bat because they looked like little bits of tomato floating in a glass of red wine.
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Ok, my apologies then, we're talking about two separate types of breakage here. I've only ever seen that part break from dragging it along the backplate, and catching it while trying to push the backpack down for fighter mode. What it sounds like you're talking about is probably much less common, and I've never actually witnessed. So the plastic posts on the rotating flap are actually lopsided enough that they pushed apart that cupped area, and broke it?
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Actually though, it absolutely was talked about, 10 years ago now. People have been having this issue since the original release, and it's not due to a plastic nub or anything, unless the pins on the rotating flap are misshapen, and causing stress on that cup when the flap is moved. From everything I've seen, the break is caused because the edge of the plastic cup catches on part of the backplate when going back to fighter mode. If you follow the directions in my original photos, and push the backpack upwards at the right point, those parts will never even touch. That was basically the solution a decade ago, and that hasn't changed since then. I guess you can also sand down the area to give the backpack more room? But it's not necessary if you fold the hinges in the right way. I apologize if I'm missing something entirely here, because I'm not sure what "nubs" you're talking about sanding down, and I can't see any plastic sprue points that are contributing to this issue.
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Keep in mind, we can't read the instructions. There is a proper process to transform the thing that doesn't stress the joints, and you can't just blindly transform it without looking at what you're doing. If you see something causing a joint stress while trying to move it, it's time to try another approach. The photos linked above that I posted earlier are specifically to avoid that type of breakage on the tail section. This also isn't limited to Yamato/Arcadia. Bandai's instructions for the VF-171 are actually a ticking time bomb, because they instruct you to do things that can directly result in the valk exploding into a pile of plastic shards. They don't detail the transformation from battroid back to fighter, and executing the steps in reverse just doesn't work, because there's an interlock in the leg twist that won't function the same forwards as backwards. That's not to say there aren't weak points in the designs, because those will always exist. You just have to keep yourself aware of them.
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Little issues aside, I can say it's rather satisfying pulling out a brand new VF-1, doing a few tweaks, and then setting about to transforming it. I always loosen the shoulder pivots a half-turn or so, and I filed down the nubs that scratch the shoulder tabs to about 1/3 their normal height. The design itself really has stood up well for the past 10 years.
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Thanks for reposting these, I hadn't had a chance to go find them yet. Those pics were actually about not breaking the retaining caps for that flap when moving the backpack back down, but the motion needs to be done in both directions to fold the pack safely. To get that hinge loose, you want to be pushing down on the forward edge of the pack, not pushing up on the tail end where the probes stick out. So, I literally just got my Milia at the door in the middle of writing this, and I've taken it out to examine this issue first hand. Getting the second tail hinge to fold the first time was tough, I had to press down pretty hard on the front edge of the backpack ahead of the tails, and there was a pretty loud "CLICK" when it slipped past. I think the trick to it is that you have to do the second hinge first, before you bend the first hinge much past level. The molding is setup in a way that lets it slip past easier the closer the backpack is to level. Once you bend the pack upwards, that second hinge feels harder to get moving.
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So, I have seen one of these types of breakages before, but it was the opposite piece that cracked. I don't remember whose it was, but the plastic around the pin on the shoulder pauldron cracked, letting it pop loose. It wasn't a full break though, and they were able to clip the shoulder back around the pin enough that it really wasn't noticeable. I'm actually surprised we haven't seen more shoulders broken like this though. Considering the way people had trouble lifting the shoulders from the legs, there is a lot of stress on that joint when you pop them loose, especially if you pull them loose by forcing the leg down.
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Are you pressing downwards on the area ahead of the tails? The multi-joint hinge has to kind of let the backpack slip downward before it'll fold correctly.
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Just a casual glance at the overall shape of the HMR version was enough to sell me on it. The 1/60 just looks like its back is broken. Also, funny how Bandai was able to hide all those expose hinges, at a little more than half the size of the Evo Toys one.
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I hadn't done much for a long time with that model no, but it's got a bit more than shown there, since the overall proportion layout had the wings and such also built up.
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I think I posted a picture in this thread a ways back, but it's still only a digital model. I've probably got most of the parts needed to make it, but it would be in colors only slightly less hideous than the 30th anniversary VF-1J scheme. Yep, back a few pages, and that was even a quote from elsewhere on the forums.
