Jasonc

I got the VF-4, Elint, VT-1, 1D and the basic A, J, and S, are there any other valks other than the VF-1 series?

Very nice work Anasazi. I'm getting a digital camera this weekend, so I'll show you the customs I'm working on. Very cool stuff. I like it all. It's definitely inspired me to produce more.

I'm gonna have to put up my pics when I get a more modern digital camera, but I think it'd be cool to have a thread where we see all the customs out there. Not just valks, but any Macross or Robotech toy customs. Also, if you post them, give a brief description of who you got parts from, decals, stickers, and on and on. Credit where credit is due. what do you think?

I would dive into this, but to be honest, I'm doing so many 1/55 customs, that it consumes my time aside from writing music and the band and juggling women. But listen, most important thing: Remember how you took it apart and don't lose pieces. That's rule #1

Just placed a preorder for 2. One original, one customized. I just want a green one to go with the red. That's all.

Conductive paint works really well. I tried it on a test run and it's good stuff. This task is a hard task and could be done, but takes up way too much valuable time.

HMMM, sounds very interesting. I wanted to do this for awhile, and the schematics I have do work. Maybe I'll give it a shot, but at the MW con 3, that was led power, for those who know what I'm talking about.

I was thinking of doing this, and I have a degree in Electrical engineering. Using those small, thin watch batteries is best, and where to put it is difficult. I have designed it to where storing them in the latch where you pop the arms out and bring the head throug is best. You could use conductive paint, but I could use a wire in that design too. Using conductive paint and a resistor is very difficult to construct. As far as resistor size, they do have high rated leds that'll handle the batterie I believe, but if it's not available, I'll have to test out which resistor size will run the led cool. I have hundreds of those things here, so I'll let you know in a few days which one will do you justice.

I use PineSol. Soak it in that for about an hour, get a used old toothbrush, and brush away the exess paint in the cracks. Sometimes it takes a few good soakings, but I've done it many times, and have had no side effects and good results.

I thought it was IGN, but upon looking at the info, it was infact, Gamefaq that released that info. In the old forums, there was a link to it, but when it disappeared, I couldn't find the link anymore. As far as the new game, I'm all set to get it already. Money is saved and the mod chip for my PS2 is waiting as well.

I've tried the oil based spray paints, and I've used acrylics. Using an oil based paint is stronger coat for coat than acrylics, but my opinion is that acrylics give it a more realistic and softer coat. There's also an even trade to curing the paint. Oil-based paint can sometimes take up to 3 days (I've seen it) and during that time, dust can attach. Also, if you need to do more than one coat, you could be looking at a long week. Acrylics, though, usually dry within 2-12 hours. But like you said, they need a primer, and mostly an overcoat, which is good to give them anyways. A nice dull or matte finish after applying decals will always make a valk look more realistic as well as protect it. If you're talking about airbrushing, I'd ONLY use acrylic. Tamiya is a great paint. It bonds well with oil and water based paint.

I was wondering through IGN and they have Macross VFX2 slated to come out in November or December for US release. Can anyone confirm this??? That'd be great if it's true.

The graphics look quite good on the game, but I don't know why it has to be better than Battlecry. I'm just a fan of the mecha and want good games. You shouldn't complicate something even more by taking sides over a game. I do look forward to getting this game and will wait anxiously for it's arrival into my hands. My PS2 is ready for new action.