sqidd
-
Posts
7526 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by sqidd
-
The wife and I watched this last night. Had a great time. Perfect Friday night popcorn flick. And despite zombies being beat to death between 2008-2016 I still enjoy a good zombie movie (when done right). Certainly some funny parts. Absolutely some intentional tropes. Predictable in a lot of ways like "Oh, that dude is getting killed this way" (which I think is kind of fun). The movie intentionally, what's the best way of putting this, made fun of itself at times? When trying to start the helicopter the sound it made first started with a radial piston motor sound (think WW2) mixed in and when it died ended with the unmistakable Millennium Falcon "oh crap, it just broke" sound. I was cracking up! I can't help but think of the sound people laughing their tails off when they were putting that together.
-
Sort version any amount of UV light will yellow your toys. Bare minimum get some good UV film for you windows. And I mean GOOD. You can't go by the manufacturer claims. Link at bottom to UV film info. Your best bet is to black the windows out. Here is a post I just put up on another board yesterday about this with a link to a good thread on it: Yellowing isn't random. There are multiple causes that make things confusing though. There is a pretty good yellowing thread over on MW. Lot's of a good input (one person literally being a rocket scientist). I did some research on what museums do about UV light and then bought a UV and visible light meter to do some testing to see how much UV I was really getting opposed to what I thought I was getting. I posted the results. Here are all of the variables/causes: -Material type -UV light -Temperature fluctuations -High temperatures -Humidity -What they are stored in (Styrofoam coffins, plastic trays, etc) -Etc If you display your stuff in an environment with no UV light (you probably have a lot more than you think) that is relatively temperature and humidity stable you won't get any yellowing unless the material it is made out of is just that bad. Nothing you can do about that though. UV is the big killer here though. If you don't go to pretty extreme measures to block out UV you will get yellowing. All of my toys are in my office. The windows are blacked out. The windows in the house that can let light in through the office door have a good quality film that knocks UV way down below museum levels. Be careful, there are a ton of junk films out there that don't block like advertised. There is a link in the MW thread on a test which shows which ones work, it's not many. I have even gone as far as to test the light-bulbs in the room for UV. I ended up getting special LED's for the lights in the cabinets and aimed my regular lighting so the UV is knocked down before it can get to the toys. Obviously, it helps to have a UV light meter for this. If you store your stuff absolutely do not store it in Styrofoam coffins. The off gassing from the Styrofoam breaking down is a killer. Plastic trays are OK (maybe you noticed that Bandai has stopped putting DX Valks in Styrofoam???), but they still off gas a little. You best bet is to get your toys away from Styrofoam or plastic all together. That said, if you keep them in a temperature and humidity stable (but not hot or too humid) environment you probably won't have any issues with plastic off gassing. Two places you absolutely don't want to store boxed toys in are attics that aren't temp stable and don't get hot (which aren't going to be many) and damp basements. Here is a link to window film testing that shows which one’s work. It’s not many: https://cool.culturalheritage.org/waac/wn/wn30/wn30-2/wn30-204.pdf Here is a link to a thread about preventing yellowing. I think this is the densest info you will find on it:
-
Roger that. Thanks! Does MEP have a sales cutoff like Bandai or do they build to order like Arcadia? I think I may have to get a couple of these dudes.
-
LOL, great shot!
-
Ok, just so I'm not confused. These are painted and assembled toys correct? Where does one PO a MEP toy at? Thanks!
-
Is the Takatoku 1/100 Conversion kit the only option for 1/100 Tomahawks?
-
I'm going to go with less love. I'd prefer something with Packs on it if it's going to cost that much money and take up that much space. Unlimited money and space? Sure, bring on the TV Roy's as well as a Hikaru Skull One with Supers.
-
In Battroid with the Strike Cannon straight up they would be about 20.5" tall. In Fighter they would be about 15"L x 15"W. In Gerwalk 12.75"T x 15"W x 12"L. I could fit them on my existing DX shelf if I moved the one above it up 6". That would take me from 6 Valks on the shelf down to 3 though......maybe. Depending on how they "stack up" I could probably put my 1/55 Chunky in there too. Anyhoo, that would be the focal point of my Macross collection. I'd spend the space for that.
-
Dad jokes!
-
That's easy. Three Strikes/DYRL.
-
The US operates closer to an Oligarchy than it does Capitalism.
-
If they released 1/35 Roys I would get three. And then stop. That's reasonable right?
-
If they were it wouldn't matter, they would still lose money. If you ever want to see something run badly or at a ridiculous cost (or both).......have the government do it.
-
The ones with red arrows are KO's (can't see the one with the blue boosters). I call the 1/55's Junky Monkeys. Man, they're pretty bad! I'm still on the lookout for two more. One came in a "Happy Meal" in Indonesia or something and the other is a Sofubi deal. I've only ever seen one and it was pretty much rotted away. I'm thinking at some point I may go full bonkers and get all of the 1/55, 1/48 and 1/60 releases from Yamato, Bandai, Arcadia, etc (the 1/48 Weathering for example) so I really do have all of them. Maybe not though. I'd have to take a hard look at what space I have to play with.
-
That's called toy collecting.
-
This is DEDICATION!
-
Depends on how much the toy costs. For a $60 toy, yeah, it could be $60 in shipping. If it's a $300 toy it will still probably be about $60 in shipping. But yes, shipping costs are increasing the cost to your door. It's the new normal. I suspect that even if the Macross pipeline to the US picks up significantly it will not effect your on your doorstep price that much. Those toys still need to be shipped to the US (but will be in larger quantities at one time so the cost may go down). But they they need to be packed/re-packed and shipped again within the USA. -If DHL from JP on a single item is $60 -Bulk shipping from JP on that same single items is $35 -Shipping within the US on that item is $25 (cost of shipping and re-packing costs) It's a wash. Same cost sitting on your porch.
-
That surcharge is not profit. Because the volume of international flights has dropped massively (the normal transport method for EMS) and probably won't be picking up for years.....if ever, EMS will now be carried by different/more expensive carriers. That cost gets passed down to the customer. The best we can hope for is the volume through those alternate carriers goes up to the point where the pricing comes down. I wouldn't hold my breath though.
-
Patton Oswalt......and I'm out. He has got to be one of the most insufferable people on the planet. IMO of course. Your mileage may vary.
-
Not exactly. I have three DYRL VF-1S Hikaru's that were custom'd into three Roy's that have Strike packs and some naked SDFM Roy's. IMO it seems really nit picky to not put Strikes on the SDFM Roy if you like the Strike look.
-
-
Wow, I got sucked into this the other night. I don't understand why I can't look away from horrible people doing horrible things. Speaking of....Give this a watch.
-
That's ferry.
-
PO in!
-
