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Yeah, looks like Homelander has some competition for who sucks the most.

I can't even begin to understand how you achieve that level of Zen. I wish I knew how! That said, I'm not actually worried about the toys. I like figuring things out. It's when I'm my most Zen. Well, it's tied with sliding a roadrace bike through a corner at 100+mph. Which is it's own problem to solve. I've started in on stuff like this and the next thing I know it's 12hrs later and the sun is coming up. And, figuring this out could have a practical upside. Beats doing a cross word puzzle.

Oh yeah, "bracketing" the problem with REALLY big brackets is the only solution. I like this sort of problem solving though. I may not solve a UV problem, but this has been relaxing. I ordered a junk light meter. Maybe between my junk UV meter and junk light meter they will cancel each other out and I'll get useful info. Because that's totally how that works.

I hear you on the quality of the tool. I like buying quality tools. In this case it;s not a $1500+ job. Or maybe a job I ever do again. Interesting info on the LED's. I don't think I'll be able to extract much info from the company. They're "Amazon Junk". It took me forever to get a bulb that didn't burn me out of my office. That's what I ended up with. They're low on lumens compared to most LED's I ran across and a little softer. Does the softness come from a combination of blue LED and a yellow phosphor? What would have the least UV emissions? A white LED? I suppose I could look into some lower lumen white LED's. All that said, my cabinet lights are rarely on. But, I'm an OCD optimizer by nature. I'm sure it will gnaw at me. Thanks for your input.

I scored this Ghost for $80 shipped. So I figured I would Ghost all the things! Is there such a thing as too much Ghost?

There is a used one bid up to 22,500 right now. https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/u383191275 Lowest new is bid up to 33,500 right now

1J's? Really? Darn, I missed that.

Here is the important section from the linked article. I just ordered a light meter for a whopping $30 so I can finish the conversion. To do your conversion, remember that 1 foot-candle is about 10 Lux (closer to 10.76). The term "Lux" means "lumens-per-square-meter". Using a visible light meter, get a light reading in (or convert to) Lux. There are 1,000 square centimeters in a square meter, so divide the Lux number by 1,000. You will likely get a decimal number that represents the "lumens-per-square-cm". Measuring your UV content with your UVP/UVX Radiometer will give you a UV value in "microwatts-per-square-cm". Compare the "lumens-per-sq-cm" to the "microwatts-per-sq-cm" and cancel out the dimensional term. You will then know the value in microwatts-per-lumen. The "safe range" you mention (10 to 75 microwatts per lumen) would vary depending on the level of illumination. If you were looking at a work on paper that were illuminated at 50 lux, then the "safe range" you are seeking would be 0.5 to 3.75 microwatts of UV per sq cm. At 100 lux, the range would be 1.0 and 7.5, etc.

All correct. I'm just dorking out over here (big time) and trying to get a rough gauge for myself and everyone else. I/we don't have the time or money to get this down to science. I updated the post since you quoted it. I found that the museum standard is 10-75 µW/lm. I was just trying to figure out how to convert µW/lm to µW/lm. Which I did by reading more of the linked article. But, it appears that I would need a standard light meter in addition to the UV light meter to be able to put that number in context. Still reading though. Then I'm going to have to do some thinking. And probably get a light meter. I love tools, so not a huge sacrifice.

Fair point............................and not going to happen. The biggest question that needs to be answered is how much UV is to much. We have a pretty good idea of what light source emits what at this point. At least roughly. I may have found a half answer while you were reading/responding and I just edited my post. Short version is this: An article I found (linked above) says that 75 µW/lm (microwatts per lumen) is the upper limit. 10 µW/lm being ideal. I can't figure out how to convert µW/cm2 to µW/lm yet though. Still reading

Alrighty smart guys (I’m not saying that sarcastically) I’ve gathered some UV data and need help processing it. I’m using a Sanctuary UV Light meter. Here are the specs: -The display is in µW/cm2 (microwatts per square centimeter) -UV AB Measurement Range:0 to 2999 µW/cm2; It only measures UV AB light power output, but not the wavelength. -Spectral Detection Range: 240 to 370 nm; Peak point: 352 nm. It does not measure UVC. -Measurement accuracy: ±4% ±1 digits; Resolution:1.0 µW/cm2 I just collected a bunch of readings from different light sources and I need help making sense of them. All bulb measurements were taken with the light meter 3in from the bulb face. - Slightly overcast day is 500 µW/cm2 - A sheet of glass (Detolf shelf) knocks that down to 380 µW/cm2 - LLumar UV window film knocks it down to 25 µW/cm2 - 240 lumen LED bulb (toy cabinet bulb) is 12 µW/cm2 - 500 lumen LED bulb (desk lamp) is 8 µW/cm2 - 800 lumen LED bulb (overhead room light) is 20 µW/cm2 - 825 lumen compact florescent bulb is 17 µW/cm2 - 60w incandescent bulb is 38 µW/cm2 - 4500 lumen 4’ shop LED (Sam’s Club) is 23 µW/cm2 - LCD computer monitor is zero I have some questions and Google is not my friend today. Maybe some of you could enlighten me, and possibly others. When it comes to yellowing from UV I think the above can be used as good data. -THIS IS THE NUMBER ONE QUESTION. What is an acceptable level of UV light? Of course, we want it to be zero, but that’s not going to happen. I can’t find anything useful on how many µW/cm2 is too much. Is 5 µW/cm2 to much? Or is the UV effect a non issue at 25 µW/cm2? Am I/you killing toys with 12 µW/cm2 (the cabinet lights)? EDIT: I think I just found the answer here. Sorta. It says that 75 µW/lm (microwatts per lumen) is the upper limit. 10µW/lm being ideal. I can't figure out how to convert µW/cm2 to µW/lm yet though. I'm still reading. I need a visible light meter to do the conversion. It's been ordered. -Is the µW/cm2 specification a good representation of the amount of UV light that the toys “see”. Is it an actual measurement of UV or is it one of those “cheat measurements” that takes one measurement and then corelates it to another? Is it linear (I suspect it is)? For example, is 10 µW/cm2 going to do half the damage that 20 µW/cm2 will? How about 250 and 500? -When looking at the LED light sources why doesn’t the µW/cm2 scale with lumens? It’s all over the place. I suspect this has something to do with area. But, testing them all at 3in away should have leveled the playing field? Expect the 4’ shop light. You can’t get 2-3in away from all of the LED’s at once. -Why is the 825 lumen compact fluorescent putting out less µW/cm2 than the 800 lumen LED? I was under the impression that fluorescent bulbs generated a lot of UV. -I found the following info on LED's. But, clearly they do put out UV. Or do they? Is the light meter actually measuring UV or something else and then correlating? "Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) are semiconductor devices (materials with electrical conductivity) that can emit a specific spectrum (color temperature) of light depending on the semiconductor material used. LEDs do not emit UV or IR radiation and the light does not generate heat (although the conductor box does). They can supply light for a lower energy cost and have a longer lifespan than other light sources. There is a wide variance in color temperature and CRI and the intensity of the light can diminish over time." Thoughts? @Anasazi37

Looks like you got in under the wire. The prices have been creeping up over the past 4-5 days. There will always be the Mandy deals when they pop up. And if you're at the right spot at the right time for that sniper shot......in high wins....while taking fire. Capitalizing on those Mandy deals is some next level stuff!

That’s better than what I have been seeing? Are you sure that’s the total cost with shipping?

Nice!

DHL or ferry?

If you're super quick on the trigger you can sometimes score them on Mandrake. But then you have $70ish in shipping to pay on top of that. You're looking a around $300 for any of the more avilable DX's. The Hikaru 1J is really getting up there. About $400. And if you get a DYRL Valk you stil have SSP's and missiles to pick up. Which means even more big shipping charges.

I may fill my Kiki bottles with Future......um, er, well, in the future. I think I just invented time travel!

Got the SDF-1 PF out today. I had the standard version before. I wasn't impressed and sold it right away. This is a whole different level! Love it! Snagged a Hi Metal DYRL VF-1A Super Kazakaki and Max for the DYRL side of the shelf (even though the white of the HM's won't match the HMR's). Those will be here in a few days. I've still got my eye out for two Hi Metal Fockers (white) so I can use one without packs as a Roy for the SDFM side and the other with Supers as a Boobie Duck/Hikaru. Too bad there aren't any Hi Metal or Hi Metal R TV Max or Kakazaki.

Got the SDF-1 PF out today. I had the standard version before. I wasn't impressed and sold it right away. This is a whole different level! Love it! Snagged a Hi Metal DYRL VF-1A Super Kazakaki and Max for the DYRL side of the shelf (even though the white of the HM's won't match the HMR's). Those will be here in a few days. I've still got my eye out for two Hi Metal Fockers (white) so I can use one without packs as a Roy for the SDFM side and the other with Supers as a Boobie Duck/Hikaru. Too bad there aren't any Hi Metal or Hi Metal R TV Max or Kakazaki.

Got the SDF-1 PF out today. I had the standard version before. I wasn't impressed and sold it right away. This is a whole different level! Love it! Snagged a Hi Metal DYRL VF-1A Super Kazakaki and Max for the DYRL side of the shelf (even though the white of the HM's won't match the HMR's). Those will be here in a few days. I've still got my eye out for two Hi Metal Fockers (white) so I can use one without packs as a Roy for the SDFM side and the other with Supers as a Boobie Duck/Hikaru. Too bad there aren't any Hi Metal or Hi Metal R TV Max or Kakazaki.

One trip to HD or Lowe's not to mention the time tracking down the bottle/applicator is not worth the time spent/money saved. Take what you make at your job/what you do for the time period that it takes to go to the store, track tat stuff down on Amazon, etc and compare that to how much you save doing it yourself. If you make $4/hr you may have good reason to make the stuff yourself. If you make more than $4/hr it's not worth your time. You will find that most of the really successful people in the world understand the time is money thing and constantly practice it. It's one of the main drivers of success. Be aware that I know what your "argument" will be and I alreday have something to shut that down locked and loaded.

Perfectly explained. Thank you!

Hard to argue about Bightburn. It could have been soooooooooooo good. But it wasn't. I'm going to take a crack at the animated movie where Superman is a Soviet. That could be good. Or horrible.

Medicom has the old school ones covered.