sqidd

I love watching the Homelander character. He's a horrific mess.

Ooooooooo, I want my email!!!!

She has sweatshirts. I'm only 40min from the border. So almost.

My house is never above 70 in the summer and I keep it at 65 in the winter. During spring and fall it gets cooler at night when the windows are open. The basement where the boxes are runs 10deg cooler. The basement is bone dry. Humidity is 30-65%. The 30 is in the dead of winter. Despite having dual humidifiers I can't get it any higher. I'm going to design cabs that pull a vacuum, block all UV light and are lit by near zero UV bulbs. I'll make millions!!!

Is that the one with yellow?

The gif is from the movie Scanners. Th best mind blown gif ever! Thanks for the legwork! It baffles me that considering how big the art industry is that there isn't a more concise and easily measured system. Why not a simple UV number taken with a UV meter? Seems pretty simple assuming I'm not missing something. You would think that one billionaire with an incredible collection would commission the testing to see what the limits are. I know I would. Then I would probably turn it into a business that asses the environment of art collections then brings them in line with the acceptable range. There is a ton of potential money to be made there. Not from goofballs like us. The FU money crowd. Hmmmmmmmmmm. That sounds a lot easier than what I do now. And I've been getting bored. Maybe it's time for a change. I blasted an email out to a bunch of bulb suppliers that advertise low UV bulbs today. I'm going to get some samples and test them. Not because I'm necessarily concerned. But because I'm curious. I'm wit Tekering (it's his fault for getting me started on this). I'm all about the zero tolerance policy. UV isn't the only thing I've gone after. The temp my toys are at is never outside the 60-70degF range, The boxes 10deg less. They never see more UV than the cab lights (not even close) and those are not on much. Now to figure out that oxygen thing......

I built this 7541pc monster. Also the last thing I built. It broke me.

Man, good hunting!

11.000 shipped?

The ones without Supers.

I like the 2SS. If I had some customizing skills I'd probably get a couple of those. The one in Fighter looks really good!

I never miss an opportunity to use this. I get where you're coming from above. And that blurb I found above is bull. Am I correct in assuming that there is no practical way for me to measure the UV that the bulbs in my cab are putting out? I'm not a fan of "just trust it", but that sounds like what I'm going to have to do.

This is one of the 2001 re-issues. It's going to be the best quality at the lowest cost. You don't want this one. It's the 1990 re-issue/re-tooling and they're junky. There is a 1A Super Hikaru and 1A Super Max in the 2001 re-issue batch. They are rarer and generally more expensive than the Focker (which is sold as a Hikaru) This is the 1982 Takatoku. Generally big bucks. If you want something really special get the 1984 Bandai VF-1S Strike Hikaru. It's the only one that came with strike parts. Big bucks.

Redcomet's shipping charges were for DHL. A 2,700 up-charge for DHL isn't actually too bad.

We have a choice between DHL and DHL in the States. It's going to cost us more for everything.

Strike parts DHL to the US from Mandy is about 4,150¥.................................except Complex for some reason

It's adorable that you think it's that low!

Hey kids. Can you check my math here? I’m sort of sleep and feeling really dumb. Here is what I got on line to figure out the bottom line: To do your conversion, remember that 1 foot-candle is about 10 Lux (closer to 10.76). The term "Lux" means "lumens-per-square-meter". Using a visible light meter, get a light reading in (or convert to) Lux. There are 1,000 square centimeters in a square meter, so divide the Lux number by 1,000. You will likely get a decimal number that represents the "lumens-per-square-cm". Measuring your UV content with your UVP/UVX Radiometer will give you a UV value in "microwatts-per-square-cm". Compare the "lumens-per-sq-cm" to the "microwatts-per-sq-cm" and cancel out the dimensional term. You will then know the value in microwatts-per-lumen. The "safe range" you mention (10 to 75 microwatts per lumen) would vary depending on the level of illumination. If you were looking at a work on paper that were illuminated at 50 lux, then the "safe range" you are seeking would be 0.5 to 3.75 microwatts of UV per sq cm. At 100 lux, the range would be 1.0 and 7.5, etc. -The visible light meter reads 4600 lux -The UV meter reads 12 µW/cm2 -Divide lux by 1000 = 4.6 lux/cm2 -Cancel out the dimension - 12 µW/4.6 lux. -Bottom line = 2.608 µW/lumen? Safe range is 10-75 microwatts per lumen. I have no idea what it’s not 0-75 microwatts per lumen . Does 1-9 microwatts per lumen create some sort of inter-dimensional rift where light works differently because…….reasons?

I've used PP every time.

LOL!

I ended up getting one from @DYRL VF-1S who has one coming as a replacement for SSP's from NY by boat. If that falls through I'll let you know. Thanks!

Nice setup as always. We all bow to the HMR master! I left the VF-1S Max out for a couple reasons. As far as I know it was never cannon with the SDF-1 in space? I'm displaying it with a SDF-1 which is presumably in space because all of the other valks in the display have SSP's. And it's sitting on a black shelf? So "space"? And also, I am alreday jammin stuff in there, I certainly don't need a non cannon Valk in the bunch. I decided to go the HM route because I can parts swap my way to success. Painting is not in the cards for me any time soon. Now all I need is one more HM VF-1S Focker for the DYRL display to work. And two more to make the SDFM display work. And tey're not easy to find! On the upside I'll have three HMR's to sell which will help offset costs.

I think I have asked this before.....but I can't remember the answer. Are the SSP's swappable between the HM and HMR's? Can I put HM SSP's on a HMR and vice versa? Thanks!

But then I would have a gray head on a white Valk. OCD overload!!! I guess if I wanted to go all white across the board I could get a 1A Hikaru and a 1S Focker to make a 1S Hikaru. I alreday can't find enough 1S Fockers though. I'm still trying to lock one down for an existing project I have going on now.

I took a look on AnyMoon and I think this is right. I want to make 100% sure though before I go any further (or, not go any further). Am I correct in assuming that if I want to put a DYRL Skull Squadron display together that I can't get them all in the same shade of "white"? I believe my two choices are: #1 VF-1S Strike Focker - HMR gray/white VF-1S Strike Hikaru - HMR gray/white VF-1A Super Hikaru - HMR gray/white VF-1A Super Max - HM white VF-1A Super Kakazaki - HM white #2 VF-1S Strike Focker - HM white VF-1S Strike Hikaru - HMR gray/white VF-1A Super Hikaru - HM white VF-1A Super Max - HM white VF-1A Super Kakazaki - HM white If the above is the case that's a bit of a OCD bummer. Thanks