PsYcHoDyNaMiX

Yea I'm currently working on the kit and will make a jointed version. I tried looking for revoltech joints, but unfortunately they're unavailable for individual sale unless you buy a couple of the figures and pull the joints off those. ***EDIT*** It seems like I will be using the Kotobukiya joints instead.

Since it seems like you have access to warhammer stuff... get a little Chaos Black and mix it in with Future Floor Finish. There's no real need to water it down any further, but try to get the consistency of milk. ***EDIT*** Or in the case of a black/dark base color use the opposite color... Shadow/Space Wolves Grey or Skull White in that case.

And yes... When he means by cheat he means that the VF-11B will get the special nose dive bombing effect when combined with the YF-21 on its back!!! M+ FTW!!! XD

They might seeing they got me the two extra heads. The least you could do is send them a pic of the part along with an email request.

They charged me 1,500 (Yen) per part including per head (which I ordered two of... for my poor crying VF-0S) and they charged me for shipping which was the damn SAL shipping that took almost a month to get to me (I live in NYC). Four Left arms 4x 1,500 Four Right arms 4 x 1,500 Two Heads 2x 1,500 And yes... many thanks Graham for looking out for the people on your forums. XD

Those pics of the arms I have above were the replacement arms sent from HLJ. They were not taken off my current VF-0S, so they should've not experienced any kind of pressure from the ball joint. ***EDIT*** They were completely unused from what I'm aware of. They're straight out of the production bags.

Pics FTW... Kind of hard to say thats a chemical reaction b/w two of the same plastics. Either poor engineering or poor assembly. My conclusion for the engineering theory is that they made the male connector too big in diameter (or the female too small in diameter) and they made the pilot diameter hole (for the screw too small). Therefore, after putting the tight fitting male into the female connector then inserting the slightly larger screw (either from the diameter or from the threads) the plastic will stress and possibly split. Oh yes... My theory for the common chinese factory worker (I am chinese, but not a factory worker from china). If it's already a tight fitting piece and all doesn't split or stress; if the factory worker decides to put glue to hold it together the glue will weaken the plastic then harden to refine it, but in all cases can cause the plastic to stress as well. For what I was talking about last night: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=&a...st&p=505002 The following pics are the replacement arms from HLJ straight out of the production bags. Completely unused.

@SAA... It's funny that you should state that. I order Four sets of arms for my two VF-0S that I have. One of them is still in the box (first gen) and the other is out on display with panel lines done (ordered recently). I can agree with the similarities of the stress marks on the arms. Mine are in the inside of the joint of the upper arms at least three of the four sets. In fact from my observation the stress lines seem like they root from the connecting peg of the female side to the male side of the arm. The stress marks tend to spider-web out from the connecting parts. Now the problem doesn't seem to be a chemical reaction, but just poor engineering or extremely poor assembly. I would lean more towards the latter seeing that the parts when assembled were scrapped and gauged out with some sharp object to make the surfaces even. They were even scrapped with the same sharp object to remove some excessive glue or paint. I've yet to open my other VF-0S. Knowing that it is definitely an earlier generation since I preordered it with the first wave... the upper arms may have the traits of the faulty chemical composition, but as I've said I have yet to open it. As for the black rubber caps. They are needed for the friction part of the arm when in battroid or gerwalk mode. Without the caps I would assume the arms wouldn't hold a pose.

Hmm one thing that occured to me Graham. So what kind of arms are being sent out for the replacements atm... the increased hardness ABS ones or the regular arms? ***EDIT*** BAHHHH... forget what I wrote. It's getting late for me and I'm getting tired. Programming for my CS class isn't fun. XD

Thanks for the update Graham.

Yea!!! That's it. I remember seeing the scheme from somewhere. I just recalled it being the IHP because of seeing the scheme recently on a resin kit (the IHP). XD

Not exactly sure... but it looks alot like the IHP YF-19. -=X

Thanks for the reassurance Graham. XD

Working on that kit atm... http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=23152

I guess I should get started on this when I get the time and maybe pick up the fast packs floating around somewhere here on the forums. XD (courtesy of graham and shawn XD) http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/models/she/she11b-5.jpg

Uhh.. whenever the WF Summer 2007 is? XD Not exactly sure since I will unable to attend.

Go back to the instructions. I think you skipped a step. Right above the knee in the lower tigh section that section pivots out. I think that maybe your problem. Unless you can include an additional pic of the leg itself. Its a bit hard to tell from the angle of your shot.

Knowing them... they'll most likely leave the pegs there. XD ***EDIT*** Seeing how the hip bars are made of diecast.

You know... It just occured to me that the YF-21 is most likely going to have removable legs. Hence removable leg on the YF-19, VF-0, and not sure about the 1/48s (since I don't own any).

Not sure if this was posted yet, but the company that made the highly sought after (limited) 1/100 full variable YF-21 in the past is going to make the respected VF-22/Max, Miria and Gamlin versions. I believe their site was updated sometime back in July. Good luck to those who attend the WF Summer 2007. http://homepage3.nifty.com/rs-labo/ Figured this should be posted in the toy section seeing as the previous YF-21 (I think) was preassembled, precolored, etc.

Yea the VF-11 is nice... The closest to the real thing is the SHE VF-11 that I have. I guess I should pick up the Fast Pack set from someone here on the forums.

Yea... I know the Yamato 1/60 YF-21 is just around the corner (hopefully), but I just wanted to start this project that I got from Grayson72 (Chad), courtesy of Valkyrie addict (for asking what kit it was then passing on the offer). http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...c=21955&hl= The kit unfortunately seems like the battroid will be capable of a fixed pose, so I'll be looking to modify it and add some joints in (maybe with Wave parts or some other sort... Kotobukiya). Even some LED(s)!!! Damn I don't know why I'm so fixated on the LED idea. My plan will be to: 1) Fix up the original. 2) Recast it and modify the recast by implementing joints. 3) And maybe recast a couple of those (the fixed ver or jointed ver) for the other VF-22(s) variants (Miria, Gamilin or other Customs). Yes the conversion kit does require a Hasegawa 1/72 YF-21 or VF-22 kit. It requires some cutting, sawing and other misconstruing techniques. I'm finishing up with my summer classes and I get a two week break before my (crazy) fall semester starts, so I'll be updating this thread as much as I can. I'll try to post as many progress pics as possible. Hopefully I can aim to get this conversion done before Yamato releases their YF-21 and yes I'll be looking to chop that one up too. XD ***UPDATE*** Sept 15, 2007 I pulled out the last set that was casted and took a pic. I have a box of at least eight kits waiting to be sorted through and more to be casted. I must say for a first time caster I think they came out pretty good. I'll post more detailed pics of the parts later.

LOL green stuff isn't from games workshop. Games-workshop just bought a bunch of the stuff and decided to sell it under their own label. And yes milliput was the other stuff that I was referring to that's like green-stuff. There's even others seeing that they are all epoxy. ***EDIT*** You'll have to do a search according to the manufacturer's specs on the various epoxies.

http://uk.games-workshop.com/convershunklinic/green-stuff/1/ There's an actual scientific term for it. I just don't remember what it exactly was... Keadinite or something like that. There's other stuff like it which can be more harder or softer after mixing. It's pretty much a two part epoxy. Use all the possible methods listed in that article which can help provide the finish that you want to achieve. ***EDIT*** Okay found the name and the actual company as well: Kneadatite http://polymericsystems.com/kneadatite.htm

LOL... Sorry thread has already been made: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=22348