Chas

Well I'm also going to cast some 1/72 scale black polyurethane rubber wheels for my kits. Don't quite have all the details worked out yet but I think it should work out O.K. The only thing I am worried about is the possibility of the poly-rubber wheel compressing too much when everything is assembled, but I think that it is only a very remote possibility at most.

I didn't mean to imply that I'm going to recast the entire kit. I'm sorry if anyone thought that. I am going to make an extra set of fast packs for a custom idea that i've had for a while and I thought that, as has happened with myself on a few occasions someone on the boards may have screwed something up while building one of these kits and been looking for a quick way to get the parts they needed. Or perhaps, like me, they were interested in customizing a kit they already have. Sorry if posting the offer was a no-no, consider it revoaked.

My three 1/72 Hase. Kits just arrived this morning (Oh Happy Day! ). They are the VF-1S strike, VF-1A super. and the VT-1 all fighter mode. I am planning to do some recasting; right now just the fast-packs of the Strike, and thought I'd see if anyone was looking for any parts from any of these kits and wanted me to cast them for you. So anybody need parts?

Kinda busy this week. But I'll have more up over the week-end.

How's this yellowlightman?

and finally . . .

almost done . . .

Oh yeah, and . . .

and . . .

and . . .

and. . .

Well, even though nobody seems to want to translate them I'll post the rest up anyway. At least we can all look at the pretty pictures.

I've had a copy of the Macross Guidebook since about 1986 or so and there is a 16 page comic in it which I've never been able to read. I've got 9 scans that contain the whole thing and I was wondering if anyone, or group of you, would be willing to do a translation so that we Gaigin can enjoy the humor as well. Here's a taste of the comic. I have to go to work now but I'l be back in about 11 hours so I can see if there are any takers and if so post the rest then. Charles.

Oh right I was devideing by 2.25- Silly boy!

Well according to my copy of TIA #11 DYRL Roy's official height is 216 cm which I believe tranlates to 96 inches or 8 feet! look for yourselves.

Well the wall thickness of alot of the parts I shoot at work are like 60 thou.( that's 60 thousanths of an inch -a quarter inch is somewhere aroun 325 thou. I think) but as I said all of the resins we use are Polyurethane even the clear resins. I tink you have a good plan in place though, try the resin you have with a better mould, if it works -Great!, if not order some Ace. (in fact I think I might order some of that stuff and try it out myself it sounds terrif!

I don't read Japanese but I think the image is of a human sized figure for size comparison purposes.

you're welcome, anytime I can help.

And recieve...

And recieve. . .

Ask and you shall recieve.

I wouldn't be so quick to get rid of the resin you have. I just got back from work and while I was there I was thinking about your problem; if you are confident that you have the measurements correct it could be the mix time or the thoroughness of the mixing that is preventing the resin from curing properly. Could you post the instructions for the product you are using, it would give me an idea of the things that could be going wrong. It could also be due to the ambient humidity where you are casting. I'm sorry but the only resin suppliers that I am familliar with are industrial. Vac-casting is a process in which the closed-up mould is placed in an air thght chamber from which the air is then removed. The resin is then mixed and poured into the mold by a machine in an attached chamber above the mold. It is an industrial process, not really something one could do at home.

Hi, Just thought I'd put my 2 cents in. I work in the rapid-prototype industry and do a-lot of vac-casting (different from vac-forming) and we use polyurethane resins. Now while I'm not at all familliar with the retail resins I can tell you that the mix-ratio of the resins we use all have a window of about 5 grams. BUT the smaller your shot weight (total weight of Part A &B ) the less wiggle room you have. As a rule I don't go lower than a 100g shot (Especially with the clear resin as it is the least forgiveing) if possible. Now the resins we use are cured in a 70 degree celsius oven for various amounts of time before we demould them. If after demoulding a part I shot with clear resin I find it is still a little soft (not Toffey soft mind you!) I will try to carefully put it back in the cavity side of the mould, put it back in the oven for about 10 minutes for it to reshape itself, and then remove it from the oven and let it cool still in the cavity-side of the mould untill it (hopefully ) hardens up. As for the rough suface I would think that is more due to your mould rather than your resin. But as I said I have no experience with retail resins so take what I say with a grain of salt. (edit) forgot to mention we use silcone moulds.

Well my vote ( and from what I've been reading in this forum I think many others' vote also) would be for a 1/72nd VF-2SS in either fighter or Battroid mode, whichever you prefer.

Twiddling Nobs. ( Hey that sounds likeit would make a great band name Heh