MechTech

I'm hoping those thin parts will be metal. Even in ABS, that looks thin. PetarB might be right about the limited number of transformations. As far as painting goes, I never painted my originals. I super glued them together and used a same color "blotch" method. It covered the seams, and if it came off, little chance of knowing the difference. The other painted areas didn't have much friction. I guess we'll see how it goes... - MT

Sweet builds Noyhasuer! The weathering looks great! Valkyrie Addict, I was going to joke about the hammer in the background, but then I saw it was the kit version of the toy. I hear you may need a bigger hammer - MT

Thanks for the additional photos! - MT

Nice work! I love the smooth animations into the various modes. - MT

Last year I completed a detailed VF-1 in 1/350 scale (still got to get it molded). I worked very carefully with the drawings, specs, and a scale ruler. Then I compared with other accurate 1/350 th kits. Everything matched up good - even with "anime magic" plaguing some things; it all worked out in the end. The lineart and specs are accurate in the books - unbelievably (since there are so many other errors I've found out the hardware doing scratch builds. - MT

That buildup looks great! I think the color of grey does it justice after all. Nice clean job! - MT

Thanks for sharing those photos! That is an A-W-E-S-O-M-E KIT! I think it's on all of our "wanted" lists That's a great buildup. I love the cutaways and I'm glad you left some exposed. Hope to see more on this too; maybe of the engine? - MT

I forgot about the stuffed animals! My children would love them now though! Yaohan was cool too. They built one near my old house which was awesome too. A couple of miles to get a anime model fix - and some good Udon! Not many cute girls while I was there - probably date/time of day. But that place was a money magnet for me! I hope someone has the Monster photo! - MT

You're welcome guys and thank you Focker for posting that link! Somebody else figured out the "no seam" liquid cement trick (and posted pictures). - MT

Nice seat (on both levels)! - MT

I'd still llike to see more before ordering myself, but I DO like what I see so far. They've done a good job cleaning up the innacuracies so far. - MT

Go Monogram (or better yet, don't ) That's coming along nicely 505th! I don't get out of the modelling threads much, but I was just reading back in the "when did you first discover Macross thread (or something like that) and noticed you mentioned Pony Toy Go Round (LA) back in the 80's. I loved that place man! I mentioned it in my comments, but do you remember them having a 1/200 Monster kit finished and painted with a parot like face on it? I wish I had a photo because I loved that paint job! Not to mention all the other awesome anime kits in there! It was worth almost getting killed when we drove into the BAD part of LA! We drove through what looked like the set of a holocaust movie - and my engine was dying on me too! Yeah, I was praying hard! - MT

Ditto on the thanks! My son has this kit and we might just paint this build (maybe this time!) - MT

I'm having flashbacks like a bad episode of "Kung Fu!" Flash back to the mid-80's. Being the hardcore modeller that I am, when I was shopping for models, I saw the Robotech kits and that the valks would transform. After building like two of every "conventional" model, this was awesome. A transforming model kit. Then a week or two later my track/cross country team had a day off. I went home and there it was, the first episode of Robotech. The models all made sense now (except for the Dougram and Orguss ones). I was hooked (I think addicted is a better word). I learned how to program the "new" VCR we had so I could get each epsiode while away at track/cross country work-outs. From then on out, my friend and I were always out looking for Macross. Like 505th above, we ventured out on our own into Little Tokyo (LA) to Pony Toy Go Round. They had an AWESOME looking 1/200 Monster kit painted up with a parrot face (I whish I had a photo). Between R/C cars/boats and Macross models, you can figure where my money went! Some of you might remember "the Galactic Trade Commision" (Kentucky?) mail order service. He had ALL the Macross kits you could think off! My friend and I already were going to the little Japanese video rental shop near our house to rent and explore other anime like Naussica and Megazone 23. For some reason we could only get the last episodes first. It was a joke so we always got the last episode and watched it backwards further adding to our confusion Between other Japanese stores and a few comic places carrying Macross kits, the 80's rocked for me! I still have a lot of those kits too! Out of all the series in the Macross continuim, I'm for the old school Macross! - MT

Same "poor" guys above being berated by the bridge bunnies for "grown men" playing with dolls! - MT

The safe for plastics solution is either Windex/Ammonia for some paints and Pinesol for the tougher. Pinesol won't mess with ABS and others say its safe for Styrene. I've used it safely on ABS without it marring or cracking the plastic. - MT

That looks cool 505th! My eight year old officially approves The pilots came out great. The "back seat driver" seems to be saying, "I'm going to punch you if you don't cut that crap out!" - or - "I wish I had a beer!" - MT

Thanks guys! I've been meaning to do this for a while now. A HUGE THANK YOU to Jefuemon for making the paint types easy to remember and our mod benefactor who pinned this! I forgot two important items, resin safety and wet sanding so those have been added. We've had hobbiest die across the world because of alergies to resins. The dust got in the lungs after years of use and they just died unexpectedly. Other shave alergies to it outright and can't breathe the fumes or touch the stuff without having serious issues. Thanks guys and keep your additons coming! - MT

I've used nailpolish on plastic before and had it come off with wear. Is that arm metal like it looks? If so, you might be able to clean the metal off of any greases or oils and coat the ball. Let it cure for a few hours and snap it in. If it works alright now, but is loose, the polish should work if completely encircling the ball. If it doen't work, chip it off with s strong piece of plastic like a kitchen utensil. Let us know how it goes. - MT

Beginner's Model Building Construction BASICS An old question a lot of entry level modelers ask here is, “what should I get if I want to get into model building?” Here is a listing and breakout for the very BASICS ONLY needed for construction and how to use them. This thread is open to EVERYONE’S input and I’m only starting it. Please include your suggestions and ideas, but keep it simple and not confusing. Remember, there will be “newbies” reading this. This thread is not meant to cover painting or finishing which is another story and can vary with the type of model, to what a person favors for paint (oils, acrylics, enamels, airbrush, brushes etc…) Somebody who REALLY knows what they’re doing with paint please start that one SAFETY FIRST You are about to use some chemicals that can cause serious health conditions if used incorrectly. ALWAYS use a well ventilated room with fresh air. Organic cements (such as pictured) are safer, but still give the same bond strength. Other chemicals like super glues or putties can cause cancer or long term mental/neural damage. A respirator mask that handles organic solvents will help when you can’t get another form of ventilation or air evacuation. A simple fan in front of you blowing out the window will help some – just make sure it’s not flowing back into the house. Do I even have to mention safety with sharp objects ***WARNINGS ABOUT RESIN COMPOUNDS***. Resin model dust from sanding can cause alergic reactions in some people and is toxic, more so to some people. It is advisable to wet sand resin kits (see below) and wear some sort of respirator or mask to filter out the particulates. Those who use resin the most are more susceptible than others since the sensitivity actually builds up, versus getting better like normal alergies. Raw resins that are uncured can cause skin and respitory issues as well. Read all warnings that come with your resin. Like expoxies, resins can make the skin and the respitory tract sensistive. Be sure to wear gloves and respitory protection when using raw resin compounds. Parts Preparation on the Sprues (Parts Trees) The very first thing you should do is take a pan/large container with warm soap and water and wash the mold release compound from the parts trees (sprues). Both resin and styrene parts will have mold release on them. Feel the parts before and after and you’ll feel the difference. These waxy or oily substances keep glue and paint from sticking to the parts. Use a SOFT brush to CAREFULLY remove the compounds off the front AND back of parts. Now rinse the parts off in another container of warm water then thoroughly but gently pat dry with a towel. A hairdryer could warp the parts – so fogettabout it! Why a container and not the sink? If a part falls off in the container, you can easily retrieve it. If it goes down the sink, hold a funeral for it because it’s probably gone! Don’t let parts dry in direct sunlight. It will warp them too and cause whites to yellow faster and clear parts to yellow as well. The BASIC Shopping List This is the “budget” version of the list and should cost around $25 (USD) on average. 1)Flush Cutters – These are not diagonal wire cutters, but have a completely flat side on one end of the blades to cut the sprue flat - “flush” with the side of the part. You can get these at hobby shops or electronics suppliers. Don’t cut metal with them after purchase. It will put a gap in the blades affecting your clean cut. 2)Hobby Knife – This has a ton of uses, but for now, will be used to clean spare sprue off of the part you just cut off or remove molding flash. Don’t cut too close, use the sanding stick to go to the face of the part. 3)Multi-grit Sanding Stick – This will clean up and smooth over whatever is left on the part. It will also be used to clean up the seam of your assemblies. NOTE: small “Swiss” files can be used too, but will leave undesired gouges if you’re not used to using them on styrene. 4)Thin “Welding” Cement – This cement literally melts or welds the soft styrene together! Some have filler agents, but generally, the melting action is what makes the parts stick. This is the strongest bond for styrene next to molding a whole piece - when done right. This can be used two ways. The first is to clamp, tape or rubber band your parts together. Then use a brush/applicator to flow the cement into the seams. Capillary action draws the cement in. The second way is to wet both halves of the parts in coats, let it set a few seconds and repeat as needed to cement together. Use this for rough seams. The excess glue will mix with the styrene and form a putty of sorts and fill the seam – allow a couple of days for this to dry. Bad seams will need putty or super glue and baking soda. When taping or using rubber bands remember the cement will get in under these and mar the plastic finish. Use cardboard or other materials to space these clamping devices away from the styrene and watch where the glue flows – it’s thinner than water! Your fingers can become applicators too and get glue where you don’t want it – watch where you put those fingers! 5)Super Glue – Super glue sets faster, can fill seams when cured and is also the main glue of choice for gluing resin kits together. Cured super glue is stronger and tougher than the styrene, remember this when sanding or filling gaps as listed below. Think how you will attack your problem before making it worse. 6)Baking Soda – Not mandatory, but will accelerate super glue’s curing time and can be “piled on” to fill-in nasty seams or bad goof ups in assembly with super glue coats in between layers. 7)Filler Putty – This is the other way to fill bad seams in or cover up goofs you gouged into your kit. Let it dry thoroughly and ensure the area is clean of oils that will inhibit adhesion. 8)Sanding Block – When your parts are together, the sanding stick has sanded the seam over, use this to bring a near glossy finish back to the plastic. Rubbing an old clean and SOFT rag can buff it to gloss. Making It “Seam Easy” The most frustrating part of model assembly is when you glue two pieces together and you can see the seam. The seam of the parts can simply need mild sanding and it’s gone. In other cases though, the parts will have a bad gap. Here’s some pointers to help out. 1)Test fit the parts together; yeah, the instructions say it for a reason. Parts that don’t fit right may only need a little rough sanding and they’re good to go. A lot of earlier models have machine marks in the mold making the seam potted and not smooth. Sometime the fit pins don’t line up and have to be removed. A sanded seam also has better adhesion. 2)If there’s a small gap, the method above under “Welding Cement” will help. A few applied/semi-dried layers of weld cement will fill it in as the cement becomes like putty. Allow at least two days for seams like this to dry though. Maybe more if there’s a lot of it on the kit. 3)If your scale model has a mini Grand Canyon in it, super glue, super glue and filler (like baking soda) or filler putty can fill it in. If strength is an issue, super glue on its own is the way to go and will give the best strength. It also dries clear after sanding. Smooth Moves “Are there marks on my model that will only show up after painting?” Heck yeah! That’s the part that sucks worse than sanding seams! A magnifying glass with a bright light or sunlight will show shadows as you move parts around. If you’re going to paint, a coat of primer will show the “error of your ways” and even fill in minor scratches from sanding. Pull out your sanding block and clean them up as needed. Getting It Wet You can always dry sand your parts, but the paper/blocks/stick clogs up quickly and the effect can be uneven across your work area. Make sure your sander is certified "wet or dry" ti use with water. Most blocks are. Experiment if you're not sure. If the sanding substrate comes off the block easily when wet, then your sander is best suited for dry use. Try getting a small dish of water and dipping the sander into it. Sand as normal, but occasionally dampen and clear out the sander "pores." The water also cools if you're aggressive and can even help smooth off the finish better with fine grits. Putty is more notorious than styrene for clogging up the sanding substrate. It can also absorb the water becoming like mud on the model (once again, brands and types vary). Try some experiments first before destroying your rare or expensive kits. A damp cloth is great for wiping up sanding "goop" leftovers. Where Can I Get This Stuff? Many of us (like me) don’t have a hobby shop around us. In the U.S., Radio Shack carries many of the same tools or craft stores such as Hobby Lobby, Michaels or Joann Fabrics for the majority of it. Beauty supply stores are good for sponge blocks, sanding sticks, and even super glue. They also have filler for the super glues if you don’t like baking soda. The putty is best gotten online if you can’t find it locally. There are many brands on the market. Depending on who you ask, Tamiya and Squadron (pictured) sell well. There are also various grades of putties too such as fine or medium. Check out your local hardware stores too. They will have many of these items too, only maybe larger for DIY projects. If you have other information, ideas or techniques, PLEASE contribute and share it with the community! - MT

Thanks Petar! I ALMOST got the SIEG baby lathe. Then I read about the issues people had. The price was tempting though. I got the Micro Mark Micro (not Mini) mill which I'm sure is also a SIEG and you can tell the differnce in construction. The mill is looser (but solid) in the middle of the Y direction, but very tight on either end showing how much off the tapers are. The Sherline is smooth as butter and I can't believe something can turn that true on a machine! The actions are smooth as butter. All the accesories were the other reason. I got their rotary table which is the best in its size and price range. It too is rock solid (and seven pounds - 14 kilos). I can't look at their accesories catalog without mentally drooling. The machine finsish is very profesional too. The good news, I have a lathe and mill now so I can make some of my own tooling. I already built a micro fly cutter for the mill with the mill. The historical part, the machine originates in Australlia mate! - MT

Hey GU-11! If I remember correctly, you have humidity issues right? That will affect things greatly. Do you have a food dehydrator you can slip your parts into? I remember reading about a guy in Florida (it's always humid there) putting his stuff in a dehydrator. Like I said in your airbrushing thread, I had enamels that needed a week to dry. The Tamiya Gunmetal (I love that stuff) should totally cure in a week if you can keep if "dry." I would paint your kit and then paint some spoons to experiment on. Humidity sucks (been there done that). - MT

She's -almost- wearing that uniform! Will your commisoner let you make castings of this? I knwo you said it was one off, but I KNOW you will get other offers! Looking great! - MT

That looks MUCH better. It's kinda the differnce between a fat and neckless person versus a normal one. - MT

Thanks! I never thought the finer tips would make a difference since I thought it was the paint itself that made the "clupiness." I'm gonna have to give it a try! - MT