MechTech

See if this helps: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~cyc01/ If not, than I have a good stockpile of pictures.

Yeah man! Postage to the U.K isn't that bad! If you like had to fuel up and arm the Monster, that'd be another story! I've purchased several mail order things and the cost is better than what I thought. If I didn't build in another scale, I'd buy one too! I already built one in 1/100th scale and it's huge! I'd say, "go for it!"

Looks great! Great coloring on the nozzles. Just add fuel and space now!

Oh oh! sounds like if it hasn't cured in a week, you may have to strip it. I bet the Model Master and Krylon clash. Get a spare piece of plastic to check the two together. If I recall correctly you Kryloned in white (base coat) AND blue, right? The good news is that the resin won't get attacked as easily if you do have to strip it down. Sorry man, I know the "agony of defeat" too - it's sticky for months!

I haven't seen the Aves putty anywhere in the UK either and I've been all over. The milliput I use is normally the superfine type. I just bought some a few weeks back, so we'll see how it goes.

If you're looking for decal paper, here's a sample pack of clear and white with fixative for $9.75. Here's a link: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=82859

It's all in the amount of UV shield they add to the plastic. The next best thing is to keep it out of the sun or direct sunlight. Second, keep it out of direct flourescent lighting as most flourescent light pump out decent amounts of UV rays. I learned this the hard way over the years. Keep to incadescent lamps or LED's in your display case or shelving if you can.

Look forward to seeing it. Don't miss living in the south weather wise at all. Nice people, hot and humid weather!

Thanks everyone. A Macross Bowling ball! That's what I don't have yet! Thanks for giving me that idea. My wife has a Minnie Mouse bowling ball, and I have a plain ole' 16 pounder. Yeah, what would I put on there though? Just the plain ole' "Kite roundrel, or like Hikaru's face or a Valk? Hmmm. Next year I'll have to do a Promethius or AMRD platform (since I'm still in "deck swabbing" status)!

That's not bad at all for a start. Decals, a wash and touch ups will make it all worth while. Yeah, the dreaded "paint drying monster" got me before too (maybe that was the monster attacking everyone during "Lost", season 1 - I haven't seen season 2 yet)! I use spray can enamel paint because I'm so bad about that. Otherwise, I use acrylics. Enamels wear the best though! Sometimes you can lightly buff fingerprints out of the gloss paint if the coats are thick enough.

Let's see, what diameter is a "beer can" missile and who was it that fired it in that episode? I would have to go with the Hasegawa and Imai (Bandai - 1/100) being accurate. I looked into it too since no one makes them in 1/200th scale. They are large, bulky and an aerodynmicists nightmare, but so are the fast packs too! I'll probably use those, but then again, Hasegawa put big angles on the corners of the pods which aren't drawn quite that way. Wow, now you got me thinking...

Thanks for the info Kylwell. I'm gonna give it a shot. I've been using Millliput for almost 15 years and loved it, but it seems to get nasty in a short shelf life period. It won't fully mix and leaves lumps after a month or two from purchase, probably because it sits a the store for a while due to cost.

As far as release agents go, I haven't messed with any "home remedies," but I usually use Vaseline for the two part silicone molds. Can't beat the cost. I actually did break down and buy the proper stuff, guess what, no difference. All of the resin I use is self releasing so I have no problems with mold release agents. For heavy undercuts and fine detail, the mold release agent is great to adding life to the mold in my case.

Here's a great fan site for Mospeada: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~cyc01/index.htm

Thanks guys for the tips, and I might hold off on Urethane solely for simplicity sakes. All the stuff I'm using is 1-1 so it's a piece of cake. I am seriously considering getting a pressure chamber. I even purchased an air compressor to de-gas my resin in a chamber someday. New drill press comes first! Resin set-up times vary like the tides! I've had the same resin set at varying times! It's all in the temperature, age of resin (older sets up fast for my stuff) even mold temperature. I heard of a guy puting resin in a fridge to slow the cure time. It worked, the resin never fully "cooked inside." Screwed up my mold with uncured goo too! Even after a couple of days, no catalyst affect. I need to get a face mask respirator too. I've been modeling way too long long now and would like to keep my hobby and health!

I never saw Sapce Gundam V, but does it have a a powrfull space battleship, ditzy super hero girls with guns and a little annoying mascot (robot or animal)? Or did they forget to rip those off too?

Sorry for the delay in posting, I know New Year's Day is around the corner. It's been a busy holiday season for me this year. Here's something I came up with making a Daedalus resin copy for scaling purposes. Everything went wrong from the resin and paint being old to the decal paper getting ate up by my printer. After some serious help, here it is: (Hmmm, wonder if Hallmark will make these)

To answer the question, I've never seen that in a kit. Mospeada's creators lost out when it came to marketing. Thought it was an interesting series too.

Thanks Fernarius, I hadn't thought of using urethane rubber for some reason. I'm going with that my next run. No degassing! Awesome! Even turning my molds so the bubbles won't show up doesn't always help. Now if they could just get the bubbles out of the resin without degassing. Big F, if you find a good place in England, please shoot me a PM. Having to order from across the pond is, well, ponderous! That type of resin you mentioned first was what I first used. It stinks to high heaven and so do the parts. My wife loved that! Another good source where I normally get my stuff is Micromark.com. They have ALL the accessories you need and they even have metal molding supplies! I am a big fan of tinting my resin. It saves paint and adds a proffesional touch to production runs. Just a little drop and you have your part molded in color! - MT

For casting pieces needing strength, try using epoxy resin. It's more durable, especially with fiberglass filler. If the part is large and "open" in the mold, you can simply use 45minute epoxy off the shelf.

Whatever you do, stay away from flourescent lights (all types). They DO put out UV and even break down the very plastic fixtures a lot of them are made with. I say this from personal experience. ABS and Styrene plastics are really susceptable. I'd go with the LED's myself. In fact, I just bought a Christmas wreath with 45 white LED's on it. It cost about 30 bucks for 45 LED's. you can't beat it! I'll take them off their flasher circuit and on straight battery (I'm putting them in my 6 foot Daedalus model). Plus, you can arrange them around the cabinet and arrange them to spot light affect in areas. Really slick! I'll be putting them around the top for overhead lighting and the side for "spotting." Just my two cents from a model builder and a "do it yourselfer."

That's an intersting idea. Make some custom album art, put it in the jewel case and attach some coat hanger wire. If you take the wire and bend a triangle into one end and attach it to the bottom with some epoxy and do a half loop out and over the front of the case, you can either do a "model on a stick," or hang from it depending on the size and scale and length of wire used. Using a CDR-W holder sounds great too. I kept one to do the same thing.

Looks great! I think someone is single handedly keeping Hasegwa in business!

Anyone get the VT links before they died! Super VT would be awesome. Dead links are the pits!

If those are the pens I think they are (petroleum solvent based) you can use a bit of laquer thinner, acetone (acetone nail polish remover), or other petroleum based paint thinners. If it's a water based marker, Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol works wonders (not to be confused with Ethyl Rubbing Alcohol) and it costs about a dollar for several ounces. You can usually tell by the smell. Tamiya and the Gunze BOTTLED paints are water based. Testors enamels and other enamels are uasually petroleum based. Use good ventilation with both too by the way. Hope that helps!