Grayson72

I don't even fool with a ratio, it should just be really watery. You'll know when you apply it cuz it will either run down along the panel lines with the dark liquid or it won't. The great part about using the oils is it's pretty hard to screw it up, if you don't like it you just wipe it off and try again. Just make sure it's going over a glossy finish and not flat finish.

Heh, those went fast, I preordered mine a few days ago along with the low-vis VF. I haven't received notification that I won't get one. Oops, just checked my order status on HLJ, looks like I won't be getting either of them soon. Oh well, eventually they'll get them back in, it's not like I was going to build them right away, just another box to add to the pile .

Awesome links, thanks Bud, I love paper models

Dobber, don't wash with acrylics. Get artists' oils from an art store and then buy some low oder mineral spirits and mix them together. Apply the mixture with a thin brush let it sit a few hours and then rub off with you finger or a soft cloth. I don't even use solvent to remove the excess.

I use this almost identical process and materials (with the exception of Gunze Aqueous depending on the color I need). I do future, then oil wash, then decals then a second coat of Future. I haven't had any problems with yellowing. I did my first VF over a year ago and no yellowing yet.

Sounds like your option 2 is a good plan. But I would like some clarification on what the heck he's talking about with Iraq. The presidential vote occurs farther than than 3 months out.

Not from Hasegawa, looks like a custom job or a kit bash

Hey Ranger, Check these out, the paint I used on these CF's was Gunze Aqueous Tan. I was really happy with the final color.

To me the part count isn't the tough part. The hard part of modelling for me is getting the paint to look right. That's the practice that the little guys would provide.

I'll take one whenever you finish, I'm sure it'll be awesome.

The 1/200 series is actually a good idea Prons. They're cheap and readily available and the paint colors you buy for them would carry over to the more complex models when you were ready.

You try a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel?

That's a cool and simple way of recasting small parts, thanks! So what about mold release agent for the epoxy, should you coat the inside of mold before puting the epoxy in there? Thanks

The battroids are georgeous man! Really nice work. Did you do any pre or post shading or weathering, and explain how if you did? Thanks

In general you don't need to prime plastic models, resin I'd say definately to get the paint to stick. One reason to primer plastic models is to set a neutral tone for the top coat, so if you wanted to paint a model that came molded in blue a different color and you didn't want that blue color to bleed through you'd prime it with a more neutral color.

Except it's 1/72 scale

Looking good, one comment, it looks like you're getting a lot of orange peel from you airbrush. You might want to either thin your paint more or up your air pressure.

Yeah I use amonnia it's stinky but works like a charm, run some water through it after the amonnia too.

The links work, they took me right to the correct place to vote and see results afterwards. Thanks to whoever voted for me

That's pretty sweet looking, I've never seen one before. I haven't seen MII and I don't think it's in the design works book.

Uh you forgot the pic

I was never going to rescribe, I'll probably just leave them there and maybe do some pre-shading around the areas so it will be very subtle.

Do you think they meant to call it Thunder Hammers instead of Hummers, you know Engrish and all?

Heh, more like click click, "so you gotta ask yourself one question, do I wanna hand over the models, well do ya... punk?"

Wow looks really good, I just hope Wing Commander works on XP cuz I haven't loaded it up in years. I hope they finish it so we can play, seems like most of these mod startups never get finished.