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Cool, I just fried my first servo. Connected it to the basic Adafruit Trinket to test if it takes signals. Now it just spins non-stop even when I connect it back to the Uno. Did multiple tests, and no go. Death by Trinket.

How may cm? And can it be hollowed out for wiring?

lol

Can you dremel into the surface after its done, for adding a stand for the valk, or will it crack?

Great work on your new diorama skills. Fantastic. No idea how its done though...

sh9000, we need a green screen background for your great pics!

Show us. At least your pain will provide us some laughs.

This is my wiring plan. For prototyping, I'm using the Arduino. But there will be 10-20 magnet wires coming out the side. To avoid that, I am planing to put an Adafruit Pro-Trinket inside, which is basically a micronized Uno. This will conceal all the wiring, except the USB. I hope the Pro Trinket will fit with all the pins in the engine section, other wise I have to place it below the bridge, which will require cutting the internal support rods. Not sure it will be sea worthy after that. The biggest pain is actually the Micro USB cable. It is very thick, and may be difficult to fit in. Sound components can be added any time later, but will have to remain in the base. Which is why I am avoiding the shield for this.

This example is kind of like what you are saying, but may be able to access multiple sound files from one SD card within a sketch. Not sure it will work. The downside is that it has a crappy amplifier, which I will try to replace with a breakout amp.

Sound is clearly more complex. It will take a lot more studying. But I'm not too frustrated, considering that I learned servos and lights so quickly.

Thanks. I have actually been studying those for days now. My goal is to play .wav files from the memory inside a sketch, so for example, as LED 01 blinks, I want 01.wav file to play, and so on. - The Wave Shield is probably the best solution, but too big for what I am trying to do. I also wonder how many pins I will lose from the controller which I need for other activities. I assume the shield is what everyone will use for large projects. - I am very intrigued by the Adafruit FX Sound Board. Its small and neat. But I cant find good instructions. The step by step on Adafruit shows how to make 11 triggers which activate 11 specific sounds. This is kind of cool, but not what i want. Instead of button triggers, can these tracks be triggered with a sketch like turning an Led on? This Sound Board is also "stand alone", so I wonder how these "triggers" would work in tandem with a normal sketch on another microcontroller running the other lights and servos. Even if I wanted to push sound triggers on a diorama for example, I would want lights to go along with the sound, and I don't see any examples for doing that.

I would watch this Green Lantern movie. You need a green valk I think. And by the way, DO NOT pick a bar fight with that guy.

NZEOD, You said you will add sound to your diorama. I would like to know how you go about it. I am trying to work sound into an Arduino sketch... tough going. This is the only example I have so far.

My 2 cents after getting my first VF in this line: My CF is loads of fun to play with and display. For some reason I find it more fun to pose and more striking than the Yamarcadias. The small size is great for my crowded desktop. On the down side, I feel like the joints are built to crumble eventually. For their fragility, the HM-R VFs are not collectible for the long term. Better hold on to my 1/60s.

How did that happen?

That's REAL skill.

Try a hammer!

Would you have a pic of GN-Dou next to HMR?

Maybe some caps on the screws would clean it up a bit.

Hmm... That gives me some concern because I was just reading that the best way to thin Tamiya putty is with laquer thinner.

I have the R3 from DIY mall. its perfect. I am also looking for a way to rotate the stands on the 1/100 Factory. Not much space down there, and I dont want to raise the base. The shortest motor i can find at gizmoszone is 8-10mm. Too big.

Its a blast. Most fun I've had in years. Anyway, you got me into it in the first place! You can have an insane light show for your diorama: Rotating and firing destroids, explosions everywhere in the refinery, etc.

Lovely paint on the Regult. Is that Arii? It pops! The wave motion gun was a neopixel running the Strandtest from the library. I am learning how to program my own gun timed to the anime sound effects. Great to have a real ship modeler here. Just the man I'm looking for: I need hollow ~1/700 barrels for my Yamato to run the SMDs through. Any recommendations? I cant figure out if the bronze turrets on Ebay are hollow all the way through or not. Thx.

As i recall, the benefit of being a kid is I was not a perfectionist. You probably just buried it in Testors glue till it hung together, and then battle damaged the hell out of it!

I've got Arduino Uno doing everything I set out to do for my battleship: multiple Leds, servos and neopixels are all working together and timed without any problems in a combined sketch. For some background, I have no electronics knowledge what so ever, I have zero programming or computer skills, and I am not technically inclined in any way. I learned the difference between the black wire and the red wire a few months ago. Basically, I am the one who just calls the tech guy for everything, if you know what I mean. So if you can figure out the + and - on an LED, you can easily figure out how to use this stuff. The Uno itself is a breeze. Very stable. No computer glitches. It does everything the guides tell you it does and you don;t need any programming knowledge to run pre-made sketches and edit them to your needs. The Adafruit Trinket on the other hand is a different story. With my zero programming skills, I have faced a lot of hurdles and problems with it. Its slow, it needs to bootload, its finicky. I am not saying its for experts only, and I am not giving up, but there is a big difference on user friendliness compared to the Uno. So if your interested, go for it. The Uno will work.