arbit
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Everything posted by arbit
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Don't be misled, this has been fully painted, decaled, coated, and panel lined. He means he did not customize the build beyond following the instructions out of the box, as some experts do.
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Lets remember love everyone.
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Okay my magnetic wire is rated 30awg, which is just as strong as my thicker kynar wires. Follow up dumb electronic question: If I have two 5v servos operating at the same time, does that mean 10v are going to ground, or still only 5v? (My power source is 5v board, as mentioned before.) Granted, my understanding is probably all wrong about ground, and its not measured in volts.
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You said to make the main line a good size, does that mean one magnet wire wont be enough to handle the draw down from several servos and leds?
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Don't do it.
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Always wondered, other than the pilots and super parts, any differences between Virgin Road VF-1J and the regular Max VF-1J?
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Beautiful. What was more difficult to sculpt: the watch or the Legioss?
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There is certainly a pattern to them. So they are very intentional.
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Any idea how "Electronic Cross Gauge" effect was done at 2:58?
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I wouldn't be allowed near the kitchen.
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Interesting. Thanks.
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Thanks, NZEOD. Let me clarify: This is what I have, 3x servos, normal leds, blinking leds, and 1x neopixel. The leds have resistors for 9-12v. All will take the input power from the 5v Arduino board. The question is, can i combine all the ground wires for all the above, or should i separate any ground wires?
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I have a wiring question (Yes, I know nothing about electronics): I have a lot of wires coming out of my model, so I want to minimize them. Can I solder all the grounds together and lead only one ground out of the model? Or will that mix the signals? My (+) and Data lines will still be separate. I am asking because I had tried that before by soldering (+) lines together and ended up merging my blinking and steady leds, so everything ended up blinking after a cycle or two.
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Another day, another electronics joke
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With LEDs the long stem is always + and the short is Ground (-). Not so with Neopixels.
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Nothing to be ashamed of. It does look cool.
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Listen newbie, its clearly a Macross Rick Hunter.
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Oh great, now I do need the Armored 1J for my CF. Thanks a LOT.
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I'l stick with my Arii 1/6 Hikaru. .
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Thanks for the advice guys. Wouldn't want to take a hack saw to this without knowing what I'm doing.
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Do you prefer TV or DYRL paint scheme?
arbit replied to potatotomato's topic in Movies and TV Series
TV for colors DYRL for amazing mecha design. DYRL for special valks. Toss up for SDF-1. -
Whats a good slow speed drill for plastic? I have a Dremmel. It is way too fast and melts model plastic. But I think the Dremmel will be fine for the strong acrylic in the Yeti Stand.
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Apparently Neopixels are so new that they were never considered for the Arduino. Some special programming libraries are required to avoid conflicts... I haven't studied this much in years . From Adafruit site: "Not a week goes by in the Adafruit Forums that someone isn’t heartbroken to discover that the NeoPixel and Servo libraries won’t work together in the same Arduino sketch. Fear not, help is on the way!"
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Liking the weapons rack. Wish I got the pegged stand.
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Good news for you, unlike 19 years ago, you can learn anything on Youtube! Thanks MechTech, but don't bet on it, considering I cant really paint very well! At 1/350 you could go crazy with the custom electronics. Show us what you can do!
