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Gundam GPO1/Fb in process


Armor

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i also just noticed the links at the bottom he has a nice FAZZ up as well.

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sorry to the starter of this thread it seems like we hijaked it with all of this other stuff, i am looking forward to seeing the rest of your work as you go along , here are the pics of my wing zero and incomplete RX.78 Ver ka.

Edited by zeo-mare
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more close up, i really want a low viz style look to it, it looks better up close,

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actually i panel lined everything on the body that i could find, i left the wings the way they were , i saw a picture a while back with the wings completly panel lined it it looked ugly. i will see if i can get a good pic of the eys lit up.

Chris

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here is the pic sorry for it being blurry, i have never taken a pic of the wings lights on, all the pics i took you could not see the light,

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Is it worth to buy the GB01 or more generally a perfect grade if it s not to paint it ?

Well, I think your question isn't that easy to answer - depends on how you buy the PG. I've bought 9 PG's, and I've only paid full price on two of them - the other 7 I've bought built, and only paid at most 50% of the original price for them. Sure, they needed a little work to make display worthy, but for about $70 apiece, they are great even if they are unpainted. I guess I'm saying look around, you should be able to find good deals on them (solscud had a thread in the For Sale forum, selling 3 PG's - total on the three was $250, I believe - I bought the MKII for $75 from him - he had a Zeta and RX-78, dunno if they are still available).

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Thanks for the updated pics Armor.

Do all MW'ers that've finished PG Gundam-kits. Are they only for advanced model builders? I doubt I'd be able make them look (anywhere) as nice as something you'd see in the model section. ;)

I really wanna pick up one of these Perfect Grade's now.

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they are alot of work to put together beacuse they have tons of parts but they are alot of fun, i am a horrible painter so i will never be able to get them to look as good as the ones you see on the web, but even with alittle bit of detail work and some panel lines they look awesome. i definetly recommend one. if you can put together a MG kit then you pretty much have a idea of one of these ,it is similar just with about 6 times the parts and screws :p but it is all snapfit and polycaps like a MG kit,

chris

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hey ARMOR you might want to check these out i just ordered some for my PG GP-01 they are water slide decals they look much better than the stickers that come with the kit. he has others for Master Grade kits as well

Perfect Grade 1/60 GP-01 Decals

chris :)

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you are very welcome armor, by the way are you going to do all of the panel lines and stuff to yours? also if you by the decals make sure when you pay for it by paypal that you are using a confirmed address or it will get delayed I found that out a while back. :(

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Looks great, armor. And nice link, zeo.

Do you normally clear coat after your waterslide decals?

And how about the standard release dry transfers....should you wash the pieces prior to applying or does it matter? and do they need coating?

Very apprehensive on adding markings for some reason and would probably only apply a mininal amount, but I read somehwere that prior to doing a bunch of stuff to a kit, you should probably wash the runners with soap and water to get rid of the factory residue. Of course, I have yet to do this either....... :unsure:

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i actually never washed the parts and have never had a problem with dry transfers or water slide decals, so i do not think it is a big problem if you do not, the only time i have seen factory residue is on any sort of Resin kit those must be washed) but never on plastic , at least not that I know of. you should however clear coat them with something i have yet to do that as well, any suggestions on what to use?

Edited by zeo-mare
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Yeah, the residue I was referring to was oils and such from the production process, but if you've had no problems....good enough for me. :D

And as far as the Testors(or any other kind of coat), do you just spray where the decal/transfer is?

Never having used this before, I'm concerned that areas without a decal, thus without the clear coat, will look different than those with (i.e. shinier?). Does this happen?

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http://www.lovepla.co.kr/board/zboard.php?...&desc=asc&no=16

What's the deal behind this? Is this the same version as zeo-mare's? That's VERY VERY nice.

That is a properly built and painted Gundam model. It's the same kit as the starter of this thread has.

I wish people would think of Gundam kits more as actual models than as unassembled toys.

Too bad Bandai isn't helping.

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http://www.lovepla.co.kr/board/zboard.php?...&desc=asc&no=16

What's the deal behind this? Is this the same version as zeo-mare's? That's VERY VERY nice.

That is a properly built and painted Gundam model. It's the same kit as the starter of this thread has.

I wish people would think of Gundam kits more as actual models than as unassembled toys.

Too bad Bandai isn't helping.

I'll agree with you on that... the nicer models are just amazing.. the amount of thought and detailing that goes into a perfect grade kit is just astounding.

and man, those pics are sweet.

:blink:

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hey ARMOR you might want to check these out i just ordered some for my PG GP-01 they are water slide decals they look much better than the stickers that come with the kit. he has others for Master Grade kits as well

Perfect Grade 1/60 GP-01 Decals

chris :)

Pete Savin's decals are top notch - I've gotten 5 sets from him total, including the PG GP01 set. Bandai should really hire this guy, and let him do all the decal work on their Gundam kits - those dry transfers and stickers suck!

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Bandai should really hire this guy, and let him do all the decal work on their Gundam kits - those dry transfers and stickers suck!

Indeed.

Or they can just start helping us out by giving us waterslides in the first place. Getting Peter's decals for us would be the icing on the cake.

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