Gundam Instruction Manuals

[rocco_77]

I know that it's not really necessary to be able to read the instructions in the manuals since the pictures are pretty good for the assembly, but I would like to be able to decipher at least some of the symbols on the parts list just to check and make sure nothing is missing.... Specifically where do they tell you how many, and of what type of screws should be in the kit? The other stuff is easy to use the pictures...

And some of the symbols that look like psuedo road signs.... A couple of them I can't tell what they mean....

The reason I ask is because I have a couple of PG models that I will get to eventually... They are very detailed and complicated and I just wondered if anyone would help out with some of the symbols... I can scan some of the specific things I would like to know what they mean if that would help.

And, out of curiosity.... has anyone experienced any trouble assembling MG and PG kits without being able to understand ANY of the words (symbols) in the instructions?

THanks,

rocco_77

[j_wong00]

My Japanese skills are quite limited, and I've had no problem reading them.

The diagrams are very good, and everything outside of the the labels are all alphanumeric, so it's very difficult to get lost.

Basically, if you can make heads or tails of the Yammie manuals, you shouldn't have too much problems with the Gundam kits.

[Lynx7725]

Uhm. I don't see why the symbols may be confusing, especially if you are not interested in the background story (i.e. fluff) but more of the instructions..

My Japanese is rudimentary, but luckily I understand Chinese too.

*flips MG manuals*

Okay, fair.. some may need help to decipher. If you would scan the "road signs" I think we would be more than willing to help. (okay, I would.. can't speak for everyone.. )

As for parts, MG kit manuals always has a page detailling the sprues. This is called the "Parts List" page.

Each sprue is labeled, at top, with A XXX <-- katakana for "parts", I think, B XXX. So it's fairly easy to match them. If there are supposed to be 2 sets of say, sprue B, there is a "x2" behind. Quite clear, right?

Because Bandai standardizes some parts, notably polycaps, in the diagrams sometimes there are crosses over certain parts. This means the parts are not to be used for this kit -- save them.

As for screws and other parts, normally at the bottom right of he Parts Lists page there is a tabulation of other contents of the MG kit. The numbers are usually stated there. If you can scan in one I can do a rough translation for you, but bear in mind that the parts changes based on kits.

[motley]

i know no japanese and no chinese, but i've never had any problems with the master grade kits. not sure about the PGs. the instructions are presented visually and what little text used i've never needed to understand. though it'd be nice to get the manual part translated, lots of fun info there.

[rocco_77]

Thanks for the replies thus far...

There are really only a couple of things I have question about... If I remember, I will bring a manual with me to work tomorrow and scan the parts I would like help with ....

Lynxx: thanks for your specific offer... Tomorrow I should have the scans here.

[Keith]

Pick up a cheap U.S. kit, you'll get a basic idea of how the manuels work.

[David Hingtgen]

All you really need is "left" and "right". Anyways--just ask here for any symbol meanings you don't get!

BTW--which PG kits? I have a mini-FAQ for assembly tips for the W0C.

[Mechamaniac]

The only problem I ever had with a PG manual was for the PG Zaku F.

I think it was one of the first PG's released if not the first. I had a hell of a time deciphering which screws were wich to the point that I separated them all into individual ziplock bags, and copied the Kanji with a sharpie marker so I could get at them with ease. My wife thought this was hilarious

I think though that with most of the later PG's they realized that there was a somewhat international market for these and as such, they have at least stopped identifying their screws with Kanji characters, now they are A, B, etc.

If you look at them, they really aren't that hard.

Just remember (to save yourself some time) that they go by sub-assembly. So MG's will usually start off with the feet, then the legs, then the torso or arms etc etc.

PG's I think usually start off with the arms. Anyway, to save yourself some time, remember that you are going to have to build the opposite appendage the same way, so you may as well do it at the same time.

What I usually do, is look at the instructions, and go ahead and remove the parts from the sprues, and polycaps etc for BOTH right and left appendages, build one based on the instructions, and then build the other right behind it. In the manual, the other appendage may be a page or two ahead, but you will have to build it anyway, so you may as well knock them both out at once.

The only real bear with most of the PG's is the wiring, especially the PG Zaku I never did get the mono-eye to work.

Hope this helps.

[David Hingtgen]

IMHO, all PG wiring is either:

A. Completely wortless.

B. *Barely* adequate.

Just solder everything. Quicker and easier than trying to use some combo of plastic and screws and springs.

[rocco_77]

Pick up a cheap U.S. kit, you'll get a basic idea of how the manuels work.

This is something I didn't think about.. Thanks!

Mechamaniac: Great tips as well... Thank you...

David: The PG kits I have thus far are the Wing Zero Custom (I'm saving this one for last), and the PG Zeta. I downloaded some tips for assembling the W0C, but if you have more tips, I would like to have those as well... You can never have too much information... (well maybe sometimes... lol)

I have about 5 or six MG kits that I'm going to build before I even attempt the PG kits... I've built model planes, and cars when I was younger... I'm a commercial artist by trade, and have had some instruction and practice with an airbrush, and I'm VERY mechanically inclined, and I've assembled electronic circuits before, so I'm pretty confident all of the kits will come out pretty good...

CRAP. I just realized I forgot to bring in a manual to scan... I'll try to remember tomorrow..

[Angel's Fury]

Pick up a cheap U.S. kit, you'll get a basic idea of how the manuels work.

This is something I didn't think about.. Thanks!

Mechamaniac: Great tips as well... Thank you...

David: The PG kits I have thus far are the Wing Zero Custom (I'm saving this one for last), and the PG Zeta. I downloaded some tips for assembling the W0C, but if you have more tips, I would like to have those as well... You can never have too much information... (well maybe sometimes... lol)

I have about 5 or six MG kits that I'm going to build before I even attempt the PG kits... I've built model planes, and cars when I was younger... I'm a commercial artist by trade, and have had some instruction and practice with an airbrush, and I'm VERY mechanically inclined, and I've assembled electronic circuits before, so I'm pretty confident all of the kits will come out pretty good...

CRAP. I just realized I forgot to bring in a manual to scan... I'll try to remember tomorrow..

I tell ya rocco_77, the PG Wing Zero Custom Kit by far is the best kit, IMO. It was relative easy. I had no problems with the instruction manual even though I know no Japanese. It's pratically my trophy piece.

[Vostok 7]

I really really wish they translated the "history" and other blabber about the kits from the middle of the manuals when they brought the MGs over. Or I wish there was some site about it somewhere or SOMETHING.

About the best I ever got was Abombz giving me the gist of the blurbs from the Zeta Plus C1.

Vostok 7

[David Hingtgen]

I've never formatted it nicely, (it just starts right in) but here's my PG W0C tips:

http://members.aol.com/ncc42768/PGWingZero.doc

Written only like 2 days after assembly, so it was all fresh in my memory.

[rocco_77]

I've never formatted it nicely, (it just starts right in) but here's my PG W0C tips:

http://members.aol.com/ncc42768/PGWingZero.doc

Written only like 2 days after assembly, so it was all fresh in my memory.

cool stuff David. Thanks!

Well I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[Angel's Fury]

I've never formatted it nicely, (it just starts right in) but here's my PG W0C tips:

http://members.aol.com/ncc42768/PGWingZero.doc

Written only like 2 days after assembly, so it was all fresh in my memory.

cool stuff David. Thanks!

Well I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Lookin' forward to that.

[rocco_77]

Here is a pic of the "road sign" icons I was talking about.... If someone could help me decipher these I would appreciate it... Some of them are easy to figure out, but some aren't... So if anyone feels like it, please just translate all of them if possible... Thanks!

[rocco_77]

And here is a pic of a portion of the parts list section for the RX-93 Nu Gundam....

I put a ring around the area I need help with, and grayed the rest of the image....

This looks like the area where they inventory screws, but I don't understand the way they do this. You have 5 rows of symbols with dots and then the number "1" and a symbol at the end... Except in the second to last row where you have a "12" then a symbol, then a "+1" then a symbol....

Please help.

Edited April 13, 2004 by rocco_77

[rocco_77]

*bumpage*

I finally got to posting the pics... could someone help me here? Thanks!

[VF-19]

I think the +1 at the end of the first number indicates the number of extra screws that Bandai has provided. I don't have a MG Nu Gundam (yet! ), so I can't go through the instructions and count how many screws of each type are used in construction.

[David Hingtgen]

Sorry, I saw them earlier but was waiting for someone else to respond, since I haven't built a Bandai for like 1.5 years, and forgot some. I'll do my best though:

Let's just start at the upper right pic, and go across.

1. Glue, I think. Probably refers to fast-drying cement, the thin stuff.

2. Sticker. Kanji in the circle is the specific sticker to use.

3. Dry transfer decal. Letter in circle is the one.

4. Use sprue nippers to remove--delicate part.

5. You shouldn't be building models if you don't understand that.

6. Black piece should be inserted after/go inside white piece. This is often for putting ball-sockets in joints, etc. Most often seen in MG/PG hands.

7. Repeat on other side. Often accompanied by the parts numbers to use on the other side.

8. Pound (or squeeze really hard) these pieces into place. Yup. I recommend using pliers and a thick leather-bound book as an anvil. This is usually used for small metal pins. Or just anything that has a TIGHT fit.

9. This piece is SUBTLY shaped to have a distinct left/right or top/bottom. Look REALLY close to make sure you don't put in in upside-down.

10. See #6, but opposite.

11. Duh

12. Optional assembly--pick one. (usually open/closed canopy, etc)

13. Use screwdriver. (Although I've always thought it looks like a DON'T use screwdriver icon)

14. I really don't know.

Now, as for parts listing:

Looks more like the "other" parts list to me--wires, contacts, bulbs, etc. ::tries some quick katakana translation:: Wow, I'm not getting anything out of that. Though of course, I've never had even a day of formal instruction in katakana. Sorry, can't help.

Edited April 13, 2004 by David Hingtgen

[Stamen0083]

1.  Glue, I think.  Probably refers to fast-drying cement, the thin stuff.

2.  Sticker.  Kanji in the circle is the specific sticker to use.

3.  Dry transfer decal.  Letter in circle is the one.

Bingo.

4.  Use sprue nippers to remove--delicate part.

Cut off this piece. This usually refers to additional plastic injection gate that cannot be placed elsewhere. Sometimes found at the tips of V-fins.

5.  You shouldn't be building models if you don't understand that.

6.  Black piece should be inserted after/go inside white piece.  This is often for putting ball-sockets in joints, etc.  Most often seen in MG/PG hands.

6 - No. This icon means this section should be assembled first. An example would be an elbow block, which would be sandwiched by forearm halves.

7.  Repeat on other side.  Often accompanied by the parts numbers to use on the other side.

8.  Pound (or squeeze really hard) these pieces into place.  Yup.  I recommend using pliers and a thick leather-bound book as an anvil.  This is usually used for small metal pins.  Or just anything that has a TIGHT fit.

8 - No. This icon means that identical parts should be used for the other side. This is for cases where there are duplicate trees for arms/legs, etc...

9.  This piece is SUBTLY shaped to have a distinct left/right or top/bottom.  Look REALLY close to make sure you don't put in in upside-down. 

10.  See #6, but opposite.

11.  Duh

12.  Optional assembly--pick one.  (usually open/closed canopy, etc)

13.  Use screwdriver.  (Although I've always thought it looks like a DON'T use screwdriver icon)

13 - This means "Do not over tighten screw."

14.  I really don't know.

This icon means the other side should be moved. For example, the 1/144 Wing Zero has two wing pods. If one wing pod should open, open the other as well.

Edited April 13, 2004 by Stamen0083

[Lynx7725]

Sorry, was busy whacking Werewolves in Lineage II when you posted.

1. Roughly, place to put cement for purpose of gluing.

2. Position to place dry transfer decal, with katakana markings.

3. Position to place wet transfer decal, with alphabetical markings.

4. Position to cut (for trimming purposes, most of the time)

5. Number of subassemblies to replicate (i.e. small numorous subassemblies that are the same)

6. Assemble subassemblies first (common)

7. I don't see this very often, but I take it as this: opposite side has similar part, but different part numbers.

8. Opposite side has identical parts, to be assembled in a similar fashion.

9. Beware of direction (i.e. small differences in up/down or left/right)

10. Assemble subassemblies last (not so common)

11. Very rare.. I not too sure, but I think this means multiple parts are supposed to be placed around a subassembly and all parts are all identical.

12. Please choose one to assemble here (i.e. placement with optional parts, like Zaku antenna)

13. Please be careful when screwing. (Get your mind out of the gutter! )

14. Opposite part is designed to move the same way.

This varies from kit to kit and can differ quite substantially. The Kanji after the number is a counter (specific to a particular type of item), and they are as follows:

First to third line's counter: sheet-type item

4th line: generic

Last line's counter:book-type item.

The first item seems to be the cardboard cover that comes with MG kits (you know, the one with the frontal shot of the MS. Quantity 1.

The second item seems to refer to a marking sheet, presumably dry transfer. Quantity 1.

The third item is refering to the decal sheet, quantity 1. (Presumbly wet transfer)

The 4th item is screws. 12 with 1 spare.

The last item seems to be "Mecha Bible" -- probably the instruction manual. Quantity 1.

Hope this helps.

[Stamen0083]

The second item seems to refer to a marking sheet, presumably dry transfer. Quantity 1.

We should hope. With Bandai, though, this is most likely some form of stickers.

The third item is refering to the decal sheet, quantity 1. (Presumbly wet transfer)

These are probably the dry transfers. By the way, in case anyone missed it, the dry transfers are the ones on the plastic sheet with painted markings underneath it. To apply it, cut out the appropriate marking, place and secure it where you want to apply it, and use an unsharpened pencil or your thumbnail or something to apply pressure to the top evenly, so that the paint transfers over to your model.

By the way, the #11 is most seen in the G Gundam MG kits. Those are rare in UC kits since they don't usually have all ABS frame.

PS: "Mecha Bible" :-P

Edited April 14, 2004 by Stamen0083

[Lynx7725]

By the way, the #11 is most seen in the G Gundam MG kits. Those are rare in UC kits since they don't usually have all ABS frame.

Hmm.. I just saw #11 pop up in my HG Gundam Seed Red Astray. It seems to refer to a situation when a particular sub-assembly is supposed to be rotated through an arc during or after incorporating in another assembly, and not as I previously stated.

[Stamen0083]

Hmm.. I just saw #11 pop up in my HG Gundam Seed Red Astray. It seems to refer to a situation when a particular sub-assembly is supposed to be rotated through an arc during or after incorporating in another assembly, and not as I previously stated.

1/144? Hmm... I don't quite recall seeing that symbol, but I often don't pay attention to Gundam manuals anyways,

Simply put, that icon means rotate part 180 degrees.

[rocco_77]

Wow! Hey, thanks a ton guys.... That really helps me out a lot... I don't feel so lost anymore...

I realize that these things are pretty easy to assemble by just looking at the pictures, but I didn't want to get into it and then get frustrated and stuck because I couldn't understand a necessary symbol... It's been a while since I've been into modeling... I'm looking forward to building these, but at the price for some of them, I wanted to make sure I won't be screwing them up too bad...

Anyway, I really appreciate it.

rocco_77