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Bandai reissue 1/72nd regult with Mods/using as 1/100 which is what it


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Using this as a 1/100, which is what IMO it really is. Long term plan is to do a few of these along with the 1/72dn glaug, which also is more like 1/100 IMO along with a few valks for a dio.

I think these can look pretty cool with just a few mods and a good paint job.

Part of why i am getting to do some of these now is my wifes schedule, every other week she works 4 nights in a row and i have a lot of time to watch the kids, won't work on anything messy upstairs, but these styrene kits are cool to kind of sit around, fiddle with, do the wetsanding etc. Key is to do the glue up a few days before, no glue up upstairs.

In fact i have a downdraft table with a 4 inch vent that i do my glue ups on, even the Tamiya orange cap styrene glue gives off almost no fumes, it's really cool, and safe.

So few of the mods that anyone else who is building this may like to take a look at.

1. Disregard all the stock joints and replace with aluminum or brass rod. This only works if you plan on doing a static model, which IMO is the best for this old guys.

2. Fill the joint slots with apoxie sculpt, looks better and sturdy for the brass.


3. Cut the hip joint, angled up, reinforces with a 5/32 brass rod thru. One of the problems with this kit, IMO, was that it always kind of looked like it had to use the bathroom with the hips so close in.

4 Add a spacer to the body to hip drive unit to accommodate the new wider stance with the hip mod. I'll add some detail to that part.

And a few others that i may not remember at the moment.

Long term project so it's a slow burn.








Edited by mslz22
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If you haven't noticed yet, you'll also have to fill in a big gap on the main guns ball joint area. I just cut a bit of styrene sheet, glued it in, and Tamiya puttied to fit. You lose a little bit of gun movement with that, so get it into the position you like before gap filling.


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Thanks, yeah had used the apoxie sculpt to fill that in as well, again this will be fixed pose so if i need to adjust the ball at all i can still do it later on.

If you haven't noticed yet, you'll also have to fill in a big gap on the main guns ball joint area. I just cut a bit of styrene sheet, glued it in, and Tamiya puttied to fit. You lose a little bit of gun movement with that, so get it into the position you like before gap filling.


So a little more progress over the last week, today is a snow day home with the kids so maybe i can sneak in a little more work.

Hope you guys building this will find these tips helpful.

One thing that needs addressing on the kit is the back door. I had to shave off the lip on the inside a bit and work on the fit. I used an elastic band to that apply clamping pressure to "pull" the door closer to the body. I used the orange cap tamiya glue to help fill some of the gap, and it's nice and sturdy since it's pretty much welded to the body.


As you can tell by this pic, i painted the body and had a pretty bad result with the taping of this area, thus the wipe down and repaint.

Even being careful and using magnified glasses the tape job and transition of this area still looked sloppy. I decided to etch a recessed panel all the way around this area. The sides were easy because i had a guide, but for the front i used drafters tape to establish the curve.



It allowed me to get a much cleaner tape line, and i think it will look cool to have a clean panel distinction between these parts.

One other neat little tip, for the back circle part of this, i found a plastruct dome that i used to mask off the area. Just a dab of hot glue to hold it down and it worked like a charm, much easier than masking a circle.


Much better results than before


And off the the downdraft table for the filter slurry.


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An interesting work. I like to see the results...

I have 5 reguls on my work bench since last Summer aching to be painted...

I also believe the Bandai 1/72 apparently is just a 1/100 scale, since it makes more sense anime wise... Same goes to the Bandai/Imai regults and Glaugs 1/100's in my view are actual 144's... which is the scale size I am moving to these days for the bulk of my models.

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It's a process that you need to play with a bit to see what you like, some people wait overnight, i wait just about 4-5 hours. Part of it would depend on what you are using for thinner, the brand of oderless MS that i use is pretty dry after about 2 hrs. It's also important to make sure that the paint underneath is compatible and will not be eaten by the thinner. I use Tamiya acrylics so i have no issues.

The idea is that the wash/filter, in this case anyway, gets into all the nooks in the flat paint, when you remove it you wind up added a sense of texture. You can remove as little as you want, but there is a limit to how much you can remove as it winds up "staining" the paint.

They have a great line of oils, some of the blues are great for macross stuff, the regult, glaug, super armor etc. Those are not for wash/filters but for doing the color modulation as you can see a bit here in the nearly finished pics. That is done post wash, before gloss coat, then another touch up round after the decals etc are done.



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It's somewhere in that neighborhood, it's something to play with a bit but how i do it is to wet a wide brush with some oderless mineral spirits, the load it with some of the oil paint, then start to brush it on a model, then dip the brush in OMS again and again until i get a nice even spread that is semi transparent. Too light and it won't stain the paint enough or deposit enough for shadows.

That is for the filter/wash only, the color modulation is a much more delicate operation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fantastic job on that kit! I refurb'ed one a while back. The 1/72 (which I agree is really 1/100) is not too bad of a kit. Your work shows what can be accomplished by applying a little work and some skill to that kit. Thanks for showing us your process!

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