Rabidweezil Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 As soon as I get my 1/48 Hikaru I plan on replacing my red heatshield with a black one.. But since I cannot seem to find anyone wanting to sell one, repainting it is quickly becoming the only option So anyone have any ideas how to go about stripping the paint from the underside while leaving the skull in tact and the plastic undamaged? Much obliged James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weaseldancer Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 I'd ask Agent One. I believe he did this before but I can't remeber how he did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indigofx28 Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 have you tried paint thinner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isamu Atreides 86 Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 i think Agent One used a dremmel with a custom bit to take the paint off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-001 Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 have you tried paint thinner Paint thinner doesn't work in this case. It will ruin the heatsheld. My way was....... The fastest and easiest way to remove the paint from the heatsheld is, dip it in Brake Fluid (yes, car brake fluid). But DO NOT DIP IT TOO LONG, should be no more then 15 minutes. Then use a paint brush and lightly brush off the paints while the heatsheld's in the break fluid container. After 10 minutes, start brushing lightly. Steps to follow: 1) Tape the heatsheld on the side of the white skull entirely. Try to find the kind of tape that is use for water tight or oil resistant. I've used 3m tape, but I put lots of layer. I'd put it on almost 2mm thick, make sure to rub it on good so no bubble appear. The thicker the better, so the oil won't get to the skull side. 2) Get yourself a small bottle of brake fluid and dump it into a little container (deep enough to cover the entire heatsheld). 3) Place the taped heatsheld into the container. Set your stopwatch, make sure you keep a close watch. It's best to do it outdoor. 4)After 5-10 minutes, start brushing lightly. 5) After 15 minutes or after the paint is off (which ever is first) clean the heatsheld with water and soap. If you keep it any longer, the heatsheld start to cracks and become soft. I've found out the hard way. That's what I've done with my custom 1/48 Kakizaki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-001 Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 Here's my 1/48 Kakizaki custom This isn't the real Hikaru Skull 1. I just swap head with Roy and put red arrow on this photo. At least it look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabidweezil Posted November 9, 2003 Author Share Posted November 9, 2003 have you tried paint thinner Paint thinner doesn't work in this case. It will ruin the heatsheld. My way was....... The fastest and easiest way to remove the paint from the heatsheld is, dip it in Brake Fluid (yes, car brake fluid). But DO NOT DIP IT TOO LONG, should be no more then 15 minutes. Then use a paint brush and lightly brush off the paints while the heatsheld's in the break fluid container. After 10 minutes, start brushing lightly. Steps to follow: 1) Tape the heatsheld on the side of the white skull entirely. Try to find the kind of tape that is use for water tight or oil resistant. I've used 3m tape, but I put lots of layer. I'd put it on almost 2mm thick, make sure to rub it on good so no bubble appear. The thicker the better, so the oil won't get to the skull side. 2) Get yourself a small bottle of brake fluid and dump it into a little container (deep enough to cover the entire heatsheld). 3) Place the taped heatsheld into the container. Set your stopwatch, make sure you keep a close watch. It's best to do it outdoor. 4)After 5-10 minutes, start brushing lightly. 5) After 15 minutes or after the paint is off (which ever is first) clean the heatsheld with water and soap. If you keep it any longer, the heatsheld start to cracks and become soft. I've found out the hard way. That's what I've done with my custom 1/48 Kakizaki. Thanks alot..I'll give it a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostryder Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 (edited) *This thread should be moved to the model/toy customizing section* I know this is an old thread, but has anyone come up with a better way to remove the paint from the heatshield? Skull-001's instructions are a bit confusing, as I thought the skull was tampo-printed to the underside of the heatshield, and then painted over. Is the tape just meant to protect the glossy surface of the outside? Edited December 28, 2005 by ghostryder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toonz Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 i use mr.color thinner to remove the paint to do my kakizaki. took me a while to remove it but it works out fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostryder Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Thanks... know of any good sources for this (or any substitutes) stateside, or is it only available overseas? i use mr.color thinner to remove the paint to do my kakizaki. took me a while to remove it but it works out fine. 355595[/snapback] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress_Maximus Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Great tips and pics! Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostryder Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Toonz Okay, found a local source. Do you recommend soaking the whole piece in thinner, or rubbing with a cloth/swab? Thanks i use mr.color thinner to remove the paint to do my kakizaki. took me a while to remove it but it works out fine. 355595[/snapback] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toonz Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 ToonzOkay, found a local source. Do you recommend soaking the whole piece in thinner, or rubbing with a cloth/swab? Thanks i use mr.color thinner to remove the paint to do my kakizaki. took me a while to remove it but it works out fine. 355595[/snapback] 355621[/snapback] no no...DO NOT soak otherwise it's byebye heatshield. simply use a cloth and some great patience....you'll soon get there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neova Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 If you are a newb at modeling, DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID or THINNER on your heatshield! That will eat the plastic and either warp it, make it brittle or a combination of both plus, its not safe to get that stuff on your skin for too long. The best trick was using Haterist's idea: Buy some brass / metal polish. Its almost like toothpaste consistancy. Take a piece of masking tape and tape the front so you don't scratch it by accident. Then take a clean cotton rag, dip it into the metal polish and apply it to the back side of the heatshield. Start rubbing. It should start to come off but don't rub TOO hard or you'll cut the finish on the bottom leaving streaks. Just keep at it until it is clear of paint. After that, clean it off with soap and water. Paint the backside and let it dry for 24 hours before touching it again. I have a ruined heatshield here from using brake / engine degreaser that would make a great damaged valkyrie custom though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 The best trick was using Haterist's idea:Buy some brass / metal polish. Its almost like toothpaste consistancy. 356136[/snapback] sorry to be posting here, but this is the first time i've been referenced on this site. the stuff i used is called "Brasso". its only $3 and you should be able to find it in any hardware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostryder Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 Has anyone tried auto polishing compound (i.e., exterior renewer) for paint removal? It might be less abrasive than Brasso and thus less likely to scratch up the plastic. Then again, it could mean hours of fun-filled rubbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 brasso isn't a grainy paste, its a liquid and smooth to the touch. heres an interesting link i found about brasso, it seems you can repair scracted CD's as well. link to brasso if its fixing scratched CD's, its highly unlikely it'll damage some ABS plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress_Maximus Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 Thanks for the tips Neova and Haterist! I have to try this on my crappier valks first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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