Jump to content

Is the '4th Version' of the 1/48 VF-1S the best?


Poonman

Recommended Posts

I would just avoid getting the 1st Issue. So far if you get the 2nd Issue you will definitely get a straight skull on it's tailfin. 3rd and 4th, you most likely will not, however, some members have claimed theirs is straight. For my collection, the 2nd Issue paint job is not as good compared to the 3rd and 4th. However, I have read in the forums that the early release 2nd Issue with Velcro on the box have good paint job. That person also mention that the later batched he saw without velcro, the paint job was not as good. So I guess if your fussy about the skull go for the 2nd. If not, must as well just pick up a 3rd or 4th as due to the skull problem some ppl are charging premium for the 2nd Issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea, but ultimately a man needs to have his Valkyrie like he needs his women to be-completely naked and ready for playtime...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just noticed this after opening my 3rd edition Roy -1S.  What's with the pilot sculpt?  Here's a comparison with the -1S Hikaru pilot.

edit:  does the 4th edition pilot look like the Hikaru or Roy sculpt in the pic?

341014[/snapback]

The Hikaru 1S came with a rubber type material pilot. Same material as the Low Vis and TV Pilots. The Roy is the original hard plastic pilot.

All the Roy pilots are the same no matter which issue.

Edited by Valk-1S
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just noticed this after opening my 3rd edition Roy -1S.  What's with the pilot sculpt?  Here's a comparison with the -1S Hikaru pilot.

edit:  does the 4th edition pilot look like the Hikaru or Roy sculpt in the pic?

341014[/snapback]

The Hikaru 1S came with a rubber type material pilot. Same material as the Low Vis and TV Pilots. The Roy is the original hard plastic pilot.

All the Roy pilots are the same no matter which issue.

341020[/snapback]

Thanks for the reply. I like the gummy pilot sculpt a lot better, and I'll be waiting for some (more) recasts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As others have said. 2nd edition virtually guarantees "straight skulls" on the tail fins (rear stabilizers). I really haven't noticed any overall paint job quality differences between my 1st, 2nd, and 3rd edition Roys. Still haven't gotten a 4th though. Probably won't.

H

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will be getting another 4th Issue from another supplier end of this month and will see whether the skull is straight this time.

Wicked Ace or eming, if you can, can you take a pic of the skull for me. Just curious to have a look at it. I asked it in another post but so far no one have posted any pics of it.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wicked Ace or eming, if you can, can you take a pic of the skull for me. Just curious to have a look at it. I asked it in another post but so far no one have posted any pics of it.

Thanks.

342790[/snapback]

I don't mind posting pics of my 4th reissue -1S; however, I think the comparison pics provided by Valk-1S illustrate the crooked skull problem better than any pics I could post. Note, I don't own the 1st or 2nd edition Roy -1S toys. IMO, the best thing to do is to place your Roy -1S next to the comparison shots provided by Valk-1S. You can judge for yourself how satisfied you are with the toy you received. Again, if anyone needs pics of either of my Roy -1S valks, I'd be glad to post pics in this thread when I charge my camera batteries. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did I mention nose gaps?

Thanks for the pics ghostryder. The nose gaps, if you read graham's review on the sample VF-1S he got, it happens when the lading gear is down. I am not to sure whether it happens to mine as I haven't check it. But when the landing gear is back up the gap should be close or smaller.

Wicked Ace or eming, if you can, can you take a pic of the skull for me. Just curious to have a look at it. I asked it in another post but so far no one have posted any pics of it.

Thanks.

342790[/snapback]

I don't mind posting pics of my 4th reissue -1S; however, I think the comparison pics provided by Valk-1S illustrate the crooked skull problem better than any pics I could post. Note, I don't own the 1st or 2nd edition Roy -1S toys. IMO, the best thing to do is to place your Roy -1S next to the comparison shots provided by Valk-1S. You can judge for yourself how satisfied you are with the toy you received. Again, if anyone needs pics of either of my Roy -1S valks, I'd be glad to post pics in this thread when I charge my camera batteries. :)

342857[/snapback]

Please do post a pic of the skull. It's me Valk-1S :D Just like to see how straight it was. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That nose gap is there on all the valks with their gear down. it's a design issue

342867[/snapback]

I once performed an operation to remove this gap. The gap is caused by the top of the landing gear rubbing up against the floor of the cockpit when extended. It is this friction that helps keep the landing gear locked down when rolling it or when being displayed more awkwardly (with more weight) with FAST Packs.

You can shave down a bit off the top of the gear to remove the gap, but your landing gear becomes quite a bit more loose. My landing gear still holds the valk up and it doesn't collapse while holding up the FAST Packs, but, all-in-all, I don't recommend the procedure.

H

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please do post a pic of the skull. It's me Valk-1S :D Just like to see how straight it was. Thanks.

342864[/snapback]

OK, I've charged the camera batteries, converted Valkyrie from battroid to fighter, and removed fast packs -- all just for you. :) The easiest point of reference is the horizontal line at the bottom of the stabilizer ("tail"); using the line as a reference, look at the position of the crossbones.

From left to right: side-byside, 3rd reissue, 4th reissue

post-1617-1131403291_thumb.jpg

post-1617-1131403317_thumb.jpg

post-1617-1131403363_thumb.jpg

Edited by Wicked Ace
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please do post a pic of the skull. It's me Valk-1S :D Just like to see how straight it was. Thanks.

342864[/snapback]

OK, I've charged the camera batteries, converted Valkyrie from battroid to fighter, and removed fast packs -- all just for you. :) The easiest point of reference is the horizontal line at the bottom of the stabilizer ("tail"); using the line as a reference, look at the position of the crossbones.

From left to right: side-byside, 3rd reissue, 4th reissue

343069[/snapback]

Thanks Wicked Ace. Hope the one I will be getting end of this month will have a straight skull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Wicked Ace. Hope the one I will be getting end of this month will have a straight skull.

343074[/snapback]

Here's an update for those of you buying the 4th reissue -- after changing modes for the pics I posted, my 4th reissue has developed the floppy-head-in-fighter-mode syndrome. Oh well. . .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the comparison shot from another thread -- thanks to Valk-1S.

Skull alignment

342735[/snapback]

@w@' whew.. good thing my new VF-1S skull isnt crooked. Thank god.

I couldnt figure if it's one of the second reissue or fourth.

*ish still playing it* =D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well... honestly since this is my one and only 1/48, I WILL play with it, godammit. Besides, the crooked skull doesn't bother me much anymore after panel lining and applying Takatoy stickers. It's just sweet looking :). Now, onto paneling and stickering my fastpacks. Ignorance is bliss...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...