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QuinJester

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Everything posted by QuinJester

  1. You can always go to one more extreme and dribble some liquid superglue into the joint, making sure to continuously move it as soon as you put it in. After maybe a minute of frantic wiggling it should be safe to sit, but you'll feel the joint stiffening as the superglue coats and hardens on the inside of the joint. It's the method I use on ball joints that aren't accessible or removable such as those on Bandai's original SOC Eva-01. It's a little risky, 'cause, you know, superglue, but it definitely works.
  2. I read things like "it looks like a $60 toy" and I feel like I'm in crazy-land. Fully painted, covered in details, large size, diecast content, and it's a $60 toy. And yet, if I were to put a $50, unpainted, sticker-only VF-25 on the same shelf as my Yamatos it'd fit right in with its bare plastic brethren. I understand that people can not like the design decisions that went into it. I can understand that people are miffed about undetailed landing gear (hey, I'd like some nice sculpted metal landing gear on it myself!). But I can't understand how anyone can HONESTLY look at the level of finish and printing on this toy and seriously say it looks "cheap", especially by comparisons to Yamatos, without believing they're spouting hyperbole for the sake of it.
  3. Best machine translation from Japanese to English ever? I think it might be!
  4. More photos of the booth, with both the DX and 1/100 http://www.toysdaily.com/discuz/thread-78047-1-1.html Loving the purple tinted canopy, myself.
  5. http://www.nekomagic.com/?p=279 ... sorry, wait, what were we talking about again?
  6. Yeah... sadly, knowing SHE and the complexity of this, the price'll probably be hitting in the $700+ range. EDIT: Ah, dur, price is right there on the page. 79,800 yen. $790+ 185mm tall, so around 7 inches. That's over one hundred dollars per inch.
  7. Is that a cattle-killer in your pocket or are you just happy to see me? Looking at these photos, I'd have to say that the figure they were taken of is exactly the same one people have been poo-pooing up to now. The proportional differences are a trick of the eye and mind now that it's painted and detailed and doesn't have wide expanses of blank color (which will of course make everything look bigger and odder). It looks good to me, though the potential of future super parts will make me hold off on Ozma on release. I don't need two of the same figures without something additional to make them significantly different from each other.
  8. It's also often a case of going for Anime accuracy as opposed to "if it were real"; Many of their HGUCs are very simple because they're meant to imitate the lines on the animation models. If you look at some of their lines, such as the early Wing and Endless Waltz kits especially (or just Katoki designs in general), they're absolutely festooned with panel lines. Excessively so, almost. Modern MG kits straddle this line by going for a general anime accurate look with minimal lining on the outside, but with internal mechanisms for the detail-obsessive.
  9. I could post pics but I know such things are taboo among most toy forums. Don't know how well it'd go over here.
  10. I could assign all of miriya's points to my die-cast Voltron, as well. The only mold changes were to make plastic parts instead of die-cast, I believe, everything else should be the same. Only, you know, 1/3rd of the price.
  11. "The missile is targeted at the giant's current position. Where's the giant, Mansley?" This really was an incredible movie. The best part is that one can find it for chump change; there's really no excuse for anyone not to own it.
  12. And yet even though its joints don't work, it should be made from the same plans and designs as the transformable one, meaning it should technically be closer to the final product than gappy mcflops prototype shots.
  13. Here, does this make you feel better? ... or do we need to keep foaming about the gap? It's probably not closed in any of the photos because the proto is so caked with layers of primer that the locking pegs don't fit into the holes, and I doubt there are any ratchets in the knees yet to keep the heavy resin legs from sagging. The photographer probably doesn't want to deal with an overly tight peg on a photomodel he probably doesn't want to break, either. (Yes, I checked to make sure that was a DX photo and not a model) EDIT: Just realized that one of these photos is even in the first page of this thread
  14. Ooo! I was torn about the super expensive plastic one, because I really wanted an Arbalest, but it totally didn't seem worth it. Problem solved!
  15. Because HLJ gives anything they don't think they'll get any more of a "discontinued" marker, whether or not it's ACTUALLY discontinued. It's a bit misleading.
  16. Wow, I wonder why the sudden price drop? The few Gunbusters that I usually see on ebay are hitting the $240+ mark with shipping. Nice to see some within a more reasonable price range... right after I bought one off someone second-hand for almost that price . Then again, I'm getting a Gold Lightan in the deal, so I'll call it good.
  17. Accurate or not, the spindly landing gear looks ridiculous, not to mention structurally unsound. I'd like it to be a bit longer than the DX has, but the "real" length just looks bizarre.
  18. Re: The downward pointing nose, you can see that the legs are still not locked up all the way into the back plate (possibly the tabs or locking mechanism isn't in place or is too thick from primer coats to actually work well at this stage), which would cause the nose to point down a bit. You can especially see it in this picture: http://ga.sbcr.jp/mgangu/011152/03.html There's a gap in the hip joint and the landing gears aren't parallel to each other. The nose bend should decrease (though it looks like there'll still be a slight one) once the legs get properly locked up into the back. I like it, overall. Poseable hands would have been nice, but it's not a huge loss to see them go. Bandai does make some great articulated hands, but even so they never look quite as nice or work as well as properly molded fixed hands. EDIT: Quick photoshop adjustment based on what the angles would be if the landing gears were more parallel to each other (assuming that's how they should be):
  19. Yup, Michel's and Luca's were confirmed, supposedly coming with Super parts, too.
  20. While I'm hardly being an "apologist" here, some things to consider why the model can be more accurate, for example, in the legs: the DX version has to stuff a full set of working landing gear and the accompanying hinges into the legs, while maintaining the slide-out internals (visible in battroid mode, so you can't just skip them). If you look at the model kit, all of that nice, thin, svelte leg is taken up by the ankle slide mechanism since it gets to ignore the whole landing gear bay. This means the lower legs on the DX have to be a bit bulkier, which in turn means the rest of the leg follows suit to keep the whole design balanced, and now you have heftier heftier thighs and a more spread out back and chest area (due to the enlarged legs). With the spread back area, you end up with wider shoulder hinges to clear around the wider chest, etc.. etc.. so on, so forth, it continues like a landslide. ... And that's even with the smaller landing gear they seem to have fitted in! Imagine if it was as stupidly long as the model kit? We'd have thunder thighs of SV-51 proportions. The model is lucky, it gets to cheat and doesn't have to dance around the whole issue of "durability", because hey, it's a model kit! If it breaks, Bandai can just waggle a finger at you and say "you shouldn't have been playing with it, then". The VF100 VF-25 will be in the same boat, with a parts swapping design it can afford again to slim those calves and thighs down to the bony structure we see on the show. While on the one hand it's easy to say "Yamato could do better!", it's also very, very easy to look at the completely inaccurate proportions of the YF-19 (fighter) and YF-21 (battroid) and say "I guess everyone has to cheat sometimes". At least there are options (cheaper, even!) for those who absolutely loathe the proportions of the DX version.
  21. No stand, those will only run you around $5-$8 though. All of the striping is stickers, the main body is all white but the things like feet and internals are molded black. The very first photo buildup posted a few pages back was done with just stickers and a straight build: http://hima-toy.cocolog-nifty.com/blog/200...f-25f-802a.html (this should also show via his step-by-step how to get the hips locked out for Gerwalk chickenleg mode)
  22. Hmm. Some of the things you mention, such as the hips and the knees, are shown to have more freedom in flexibility in other reviews and photo-breakdowns. There is supposedly a mechanism which pops the hips out a little bit for more maneuverability and the knees should fold out further too.
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